Power? Torque? Big Problem ( Long )
#1
Ok:New Spark Plugs
Wire Check and passed
New Air Filter
Problems: My idle is around 500 warm, I know it should be around 800 but I'm a newb and all these problems are too much for an organized mind.
My rig runs rough ( in idle at start up ) like it wants to die. But when it warms up is nice a quiet.
Biggest Problem: I have no power at all. My acceleration is super super bad, and I have to go the long way to work to avoid a bridge that is too much to get over...I loose all speed, even when my RPMS jump to 35 + it is still slowing down.
When I manage to get it up to 50...55, after constant playing with the gas pedal to stop it from kicking down a gear..it is like it is impossible to get it any faster.
I checked the current coming from all spark plugs...none are out...my head gasket seems like it hasn't gone...don't really know what to look for though...oil looks good and it is new, and tranny fluid is full.
I put a used tranny in it 2 months ago, but this is a new (over night) problem. I am sure the tranny filter wasn't changed...could that be the problem?
Please someone help...daily driver, and it is killing me and i do not want to sell it...I have kinda fell in love with the old POS.
#2
My grandpa had a similar problem with his 91 pickup I cant remember exactly which one but it turned out to only be a sensor. I want to say Throttle Position Sensor TPS but im not positive. Ill try and find out.
#3
Welcome to the 3.0 club. Most of the guys learn to live with the lack of power until they do an engine swap. Mine is no exception. I have a burnt valve and need a rebuild, but I am not going to. I have a 98 2RZ engine in the garage that will be going in sometime.
#4
Shiza...could it be maybe my torque converter? I mean...I know they say 3.0 have no power or what ever...its just like I am getting none at my wheels...I played with my throttle under the hood and the girl sounds new...put it in drive and floor it and nothing...
#5
Yeah, this is definitely worse than the usual 3.0 power problem.
Did the problem start right after installing the new tranny?
Have you checked the timing? It would be extremely unlikely, but your distributor could have come loose and adjusted the timing. Easy to check anyways...
Did the problem start right after installing the new tranny?
Have you checked the timing? It would be extremely unlikely, but your distributor could have come loose and adjusted the timing. Easy to check anyways...
#7
Any feedback about the torque converter? I call up the Stealership...taking it in on Wednesday....so i will have my ky jelly ready...but I know they will just give me a wish list of all the stuff "they want to do".
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#10
If the torque converter was the problem it would be really flat on power until you got up to speed, then it would seem normal. other trans issues like starting out in a higher gear would be the same.
what you are describing sounds more like a timing issue, either ignition or cam. check the ignition timing, if it is off set it. if that is OK or if it is way off check the cam timing.
Or a restricted exhaust (catalytic converter) would cause a huge loss of power. You could disconnect the exhaust in front of the converter to test this.
what you are describing sounds more like a timing issue, either ignition or cam. check the ignition timing, if it is off set it. if that is OK or if it is way off check the cam timing.
Or a restricted exhaust (catalytic converter) would cause a huge loss of power. You could disconnect the exhaust in front of the converter to test this.
#11
Just reread the original post.
Assuming no one worked on the vehicle the night it went bad and being an overnight problem weeds out a lot of the suggestions. It sounds like one of the sensors to me. Id check them before getting into the tranny again.
my 2 cents
Assuming no one worked on the vehicle the night it went bad and being an overnight problem weeds out a lot of the suggestions. It sounds like one of the sensors to me. Id check them before getting into the tranny again.
my 2 cents
#14
Sorry
when they quoted me $150 BUCKS for just to check it out...I was like...."let's listen to logic...and do the minor stuff first".
went to the garage and dusted off my fathers old timing light...when I got the points jumped, and everthing hooked up..i almost crapped my pants..
I couldn't read the numbers due to oil sludge build up(lol, past thread) and found that my timing was all the way, bottomed out to the right. again i dont know what it was at but I know it couldnt go to the right any farther....(the right facing forward from the bumper)
I adjusted it to stock setting, and WOW...new truck...lol....feel kinda dumb now that i think about it...
when they quoted me $150 BUCKS for just to check it out...I was like...."let's listen to logic...and do the minor stuff first".
went to the garage and dusted off my fathers old timing light...when I got the points jumped, and everthing hooked up..i almost crapped my pants..
I couldn't read the numbers due to oil sludge build up(lol, past thread) and found that my timing was all the way, bottomed out to the right. again i dont know what it was at but I know it couldnt go to the right any farther....(the right facing forward from the bumper)
I adjusted it to stock setting, and WOW...new truck...lol....feel kinda dumb now that i think about it...
#17
While you should certainly check the timing since it's free, if you have good power around town and not on the interstate, I would look more at the O2 sensor or gearing.
On the Interstate, you are in closed loop mostly, so the O2 sensor will have a big effect. It tends to make the mixture rich, so if you're getting worse gas mileage on highway trips than around town, that may be it. The O2 sensor has to go REALLY bad to throw a CEL - it will start affecting performance well before then!
If you have bigger tires, you are probably undergeared. Especially if you have an automatic.
On the Interstate, you are in closed loop mostly, so the O2 sensor will have a big effect. It tends to make the mixture rich, so if you're getting worse gas mileage on highway trips than around town, that may be it. The O2 sensor has to go REALLY bad to throw a CEL - it will start affecting performance well before then!
If you have bigger tires, you are probably undergeared. Especially if you have an automatic.
#18
While you should certainly check the timing since it's free, if you have good power around town and not on the interstate, I would look more at the O2 sensor or gearing.
On the Interstate, you are in closed loop mostly, so the O2 sensor will have a big effect. It tends to make the mixture rich, so if you're getting worse gas mileage on highway trips than around town, that may be it. The O2 sensor has to go REALLY bad to throw a CEL - it will start affecting performance well before then!
If you have bigger tires, you are probably undergeared. Especially if you have an automatic.
On the Interstate, you are in closed loop mostly, so the O2 sensor will have a big effect. It tends to make the mixture rich, so if you're getting worse gas mileage on highway trips than around town, that may be it. The O2 sensor has to go REALLY bad to throw a CEL - it will start affecting performance well before then!
If you have bigger tires, you are probably undergeared. Especially if you have an automatic.
I also thought it was O2 sensor but my MPG has been reasonable. I drove 150 miles and I was averaging just below 20MPG.
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