power steering... yay...
#1
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power steering... yay...
So I got in my truck to go to the store today, went to turn out of the drive way and got the lovely "hey you're low on power steering fluid" whine.
Popped the hood and checked the fluid, and could tell that not only was it VERY low, but it was not so much foaming, rather it had some bubbles in it, so I figured it sucked some air through the system. I topped it off, cycled the wheel left and right a few times, checked it again, put a little more in to top it off, then cycled it again, and now the fluid has leveled off and the noise has stopped, so I know the air is out of the system.
So I sarted looking around by the pump and lines for a leak and saw no fluid. Poked my head under the front valance to find the gearbox and pitman arm drenched in PS fluid...
So what I'm getting at is on a 91 PU 4wd 22re with no body or suspention lift, how much of a PITA is it to replace one of these guys (referring to the gearbox)? This is my daily driver, so I really can't have it down and out for an extended amount of time. If it's worth it, or if it is far cheaper, how hard is it to get a rebuild kit and just take it apart and reseal it myself?
Thanks in advance guys!
Popped the hood and checked the fluid, and could tell that not only was it VERY low, but it was not so much foaming, rather it had some bubbles in it, so I figured it sucked some air through the system. I topped it off, cycled the wheel left and right a few times, checked it again, put a little more in to top it off, then cycled it again, and now the fluid has leveled off and the noise has stopped, so I know the air is out of the system.
So I sarted looking around by the pump and lines for a leak and saw no fluid. Poked my head under the front valance to find the gearbox and pitman arm drenched in PS fluid...
So what I'm getting at is on a 91 PU 4wd 22re with no body or suspention lift, how much of a PITA is it to replace one of these guys (referring to the gearbox)? This is my daily driver, so I really can't have it down and out for an extended amount of time. If it's worth it, or if it is far cheaper, how hard is it to get a rebuild kit and just take it apart and reseal it myself?
Thanks in advance guys!
#2
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Replacing the steering box is easy. There are 3 bolts holding th box on the frame. Remove the steering shaft from the input shaft. Remove pitman. Remove the lines. Put new box on. Bleed system.
You could probably do it in a couple hours with no experience.
You could probably do it in a couple hours with no experience.
#3
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#4
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Oh awesome, that's good to hear; I was just curious, and that PDF is good info, thanks! It's not gunna be right away, I'll just keep a close eye on the fluid and keep topping it off for now.
Ever torn one apart and just put new seals in it instead of just replacing the whole box? I wander how hard that would be. I've done it to old GM boxes B 4, but I dunno about this one.
Ever torn one apart and just put new seals in it instead of just replacing the whole box? I wander how hard that would be. I've done it to old GM boxes B 4, but I dunno about this one.
Last edited by iamsuperbleeder; 05-21-2008 at 07:11 AM.
#5
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Oh awesome, that's good to hear; I was just curious, and that PDF is good info, thanks! It's not gunna be right away, I'll just keep a close eye on the fluid and keep topping it off for now.
Ever torn one apart and just put new seals in it instead of just replacing the whole box? I wander how hard that would be. I've done it to old GM boxes B 4, but I dunno about this one.
Ever torn one apart and just put new seals in it instead of just replacing the whole box? I wander how hard that would be. I've done it to old GM boxes B 4, but I dunno about this one.
Rebuilding a box is very possible but I think its more trouble than its worth. You have to buy a complete seal kit. You can screw it up too and have a useless box. I would recommend buying a used, dry box. They can be had for around 100 dollars or so at most places.
#6
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Join Date: May 2002
Location: Solano Co, CA Originally a North Idaho Hick
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They can be complicated to tear apart. Go to Marlins site and do a search in their forum for tapping an IFS box for Hydro assist. There is a detailed write up on how to tear a box apart. Not sure about junk yards or your area but around here coverting push pull to Hysteer and going with Hydro is really popular so everyone is always looking for IFS boxes which keeps the price for used ones at a premium.
Make sure you put a mark on your steering shaft and the box before you tear it apart or you'll never be able to get your steering wheel centered again. I had to tear mine back apart 3 times after I had it off the frame to tap it for my Hydro before I got it back to where it was.
Make sure you put a mark on your steering shaft and the box before you tear it apart or you'll never be able to get your steering wheel centered again. I had to tear mine back apart 3 times after I had it off the frame to tap it for my Hydro before I got it back to where it was.
#7
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Make sure you put a mark on your steering shaft and the box before you tear it apart or you'll never be able to get your steering wheel centered again. I had to tear mine back apart 3 times after I had it off the frame to tap it for my Hydro before I got it back to where it was.
I forgot when I did mine too.....I simply had an assistant sit in the driver seat and hold the wheel straight while I put the shaft back together
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#8
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Haha.. thought I was the only one. I got so excited about my hydro I forgot a few small things. I did the same thing you did but I'm anal. I missed it by a spline the first two times.
#9
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Good point there about marking that; never would have crossed my mind, lol.
I'll prolly just through in the hole box if it's not that hard to get out. I was just wandering though, cause I know for instance that it's easier to get a starter out with a body lift, and it's a PITA if it's stock, but I wasn't sure if it would be the same way around with other parts like the steering box.
Get'n one out of a junk yard around here would be next to impossible; practically NONE of them have a 3rd gen pickup or 2nd gen runner in them; plenty of 87 and backs (none with the axles or motors of caurse ), so I think a new or remanufactured is my only route. Not to mention, at least I'll get a waruntee with the purchase of one from a parts store.
I don't see any new one lasting another 285k miles though... unless I get it from the stealership, but that would probably cost me a lotta dough...
I'll prolly just through in the hole box if it's not that hard to get out. I was just wandering though, cause I know for instance that it's easier to get a starter out with a body lift, and it's a PITA if it's stock, but I wasn't sure if it would be the same way around with other parts like the steering box.
Get'n one out of a junk yard around here would be next to impossible; practically NONE of them have a 3rd gen pickup or 2nd gen runner in them; plenty of 87 and backs (none with the axles or motors of caurse ), so I think a new or remanufactured is my only route. Not to mention, at least I'll get a waruntee with the purchase of one from a parts store.
I don't see any new one lasting another 285k miles though... unless I get it from the stealership, but that would probably cost me a lotta dough...
Last edited by iamsuperbleeder; 05-21-2008 at 08:21 AM.
#11
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#12
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#13
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well I checked the auto part store today... $250 for a remaned box
a few seals they list for it are only around 5 er 6 bucks (like the pitman arm seal, and input shaft seal), so I think first I'll try wash'n it off, then keep'n an eye on the box to see where it's specifically leaking from, and just try to replace the seal.
if all else fails in the end, then I'll just fork up the dough for a new box.
a few seals they list for it are only around 5 er 6 bucks (like the pitman arm seal, and input shaft seal), so I think first I'll try wash'n it off, then keep'n an eye on the box to see where it's specifically leaking from, and just try to replace the seal.
if all else fails in the end, then I'll just fork up the dough for a new box.
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