That explains why my alternator caught on fire...

Now I'm really worried about it leaking. I guess I'll just keep my fire extinguisher handy and pray that I'll make it the 2 hours that it's going to take to get down to river rock. Looks like I'll be installing the new one first thing after all.

 

get an original toyota part, used or new. Advanced and Autozone are decent but some of their rebuilt crap isn't worth jack . I bought a clutch master cylinder and it turned out to be bad, then i got another one and it wasn't working good. Got one from toyota and ya it was more expensive, but I haven't had a problem with it at all. Toyota parts rape

 

I went through 3 master cylinders from autozone, finally got one from advance and it worked. I usually hop parts stores, normally just advance abd o reillys, only time I'm ever in autozone anymore is to exchange alternators from a lifetime warranty from 15 years ago.

 

Agreed. However, local Toyota stealership around here wanted $450 for a new PS pump. Dirtoyboy is shipping me a used one...

 

I paid $70 for one from Advanced Auto, I love that place! If also comes with a limited lifetime warranty, so pretty much if it goes I just yank it out bash it on the ground a couple times, I get a new one.

Advanced Auto is the shizzle only place I know that has a warranty on their brakes too. I get a free 1 time replacement once they wear.

 

Bolts were tight as a drum.

And now that it's getting closer to the wheeling trip, my brakes are acting up again. I have no clue why, they have been good since I fixed them last. Now they are acting like there is air in the lines. Only thing I can figure is that I didn't bleed them enough when I removed/installed my rear diff. (Brakes have always hated me)

 

did you bleed the lspv too?

 

Yup, I've just never had any luck with brakes. Always takes me longer than it should to get them to work 1/2 way decent. I'll get someone to help me bleed them tomorrow.

 

Sounds like an operator technique problem ...

Start with the PS rear, then DS rear, then PS front, then DS front, then LSPV.

http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b.../3checksan.pdf

 

and I'd suggest not just a 'bleed' but a full flush of fluid.

 

I have flushed the system twice since I owned the truck. Once when I had to do a complete brake job (rebuilding calipers, etc.)
I thought you bled it like this though:

1. Driver side rear (farthest from MC)
2. lspv
3. pass. side rear
4. pass. side front
5. driver side front

Basically I was taught to bleed first what is farthest away from the master cylinder.

 

You are correct about going furthest to nearest - the FSM says LSPV last though. At least after the passenger side rear, though - I bet you are getting bubbles trapped in between there. The brake lines both come to the LSPV then to each side...

 

looking at the brake circuits, and considering the unwritten rule about starting furthest and working to the closest, I'd do passenger rear, driver rear, LPSV, passenger front, driver front. But I would want to see CLEAN fluid at each bleeder.

 

If you look at the brake lines it is a longer distance to the driver rear than passenger rear.

I'll have to try the lspv last this time. There IS clean fluid in the system.