I installed my BJ spacers yesterday, everything went fine until it came time to get the alignment at least close, no amount of adjusting will get the passenger side to vertical. I can crank the back cam to push the control arm all the way out and the front cam all the way in and I still have somewhat positive camber on that side... I have tried every combination possible. I've looked over all the components and nothing looks bent at all. Could it be that I need to replace control arm bushings? Any other thoughts?

Thanks,
Ron

 

search for posts from sdori, hes a member on here and has a few write-ups on alignments as well as a link or two.

lee

 

Maybe the bushings, how do they look/feel?

Could be a bent frame. Happened to me, I couldn't get my camber right either 'till I straightened it out. It would be a hard thing to see if your not very well familiar with the underside of your rig. Try measuring the gap between the rear control arms, you know, where a Sonoran Steel Early IFS Truss goes(). Should be 17", if it's more than that you'll be shy on positive camber adjustment room.

 

I mis-stated in my original post. I am positive on my camber and cant get to 0 or negative. I just measured the rear gap and it's tweaked... I'm measuring 17.5" So I guess I get to find a frame repair shop now?

Ron

 

I spoke with a local frame straightener shop this morning, the guy says he is familiar with the issue and that he can usually square them up pretty well. Looks like I'll be taking it in. Then it's time to find or build a frame brace.

 

I found that the best setting for my alignment came from using the cam bolts and the tie rods to adjust the camber. Once I figured out that the tie rods would pull the tops of the wheels in and then I could straighten it back out with the cam bolts I got it in like 5 minutes so I could drive it.

It;s not just in the cam bolts...

 

I'll play with that before I take it in. Thanks Ovrrdrive...

 

On my truck the tie rods are adjusted almost all the in. I just rebuilt all of the front end and the newer ones seem to have more adjustment room to them than the stockers did, but they're still adjusted pretty far in. I think when you add the spacers it pushes out the top of the tires when it drops everything down so you need to shorten the tie rods to compensate.

My buddy was telling me over and over that the tie rods only adjusted toe but after I looked at everything and got it in my mind what setting would adjust what, it just made sense to me to suck the tie rods in and then pull the toe back out by moving the rear cam in towards the middle of the truck and the fronts out. Long story short, it worked like a charm...

Before you go spending cash at a frame shop why don't you post a bunch of pics of all around the front end of your truck so we can see what's going on...

 

Bingo!!!

Thank you Ovrrdrive.

I ran my tie rod adjustment in as far as I could and then adjusted like you said and ta-da got the camber to zero out... I still need to get the toe dialed in but things look so much better.

Thanks
Ron

 

Cool. Glad you got it right.


After I got the alignment professionally done there was only like 2 threads showing on the passenger tie rod and 1 on the drivers side. Now with all new ball joints and tie rods though I seem to have a little more adjustment there. We'll see after I get an alignment done today what I have left.

Just remember that when it comes to toe you can adjust that with the tie rods and the cam bolts too. They all work together.