1994 Pickup 3.0 Auto 4x4

Currently have a no crank issue.

Starter relay is clicking, and I have confirmed it is getting 12v.

I am getting 0v at the starter.

Tried jumping 12v to the starter relay socket going to the starter with no luck.

Tried jumping 12v to the starter and it cranks fine.

I have wiggled the shifter and tried starting in neutral with no luck.

I am running out of ideas, but thinking it is something with the NSS. Does anyone else have any ideas before I continue?

 

Well, if jumpering 12v to the starter (the solenoid contact) runs the starter, but jumpering 12v to the relay socket connection to the same wire doesn't, what does that tell you? Your problem might be at the booted connector right at the starter; that connector can take a beating. The whole wire isn't very long, but you'll have to undo some tape to get to it.

Before you do that, make sure you have the correct relay socket pin: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...switch-287859/

 

It tells me something is wrong between the relay and the starter. From what I can tell the only thing between them is the neutral safety switch. I’d like to check for 12v at the NSS but that looks like it’s going to be a pain to get to. If I have power there, then I would think it’s something with the NSS or the wire going to the starter.

I actually used that thread to find the correct socket so I should be good there.

Thanks!

 

Oops, you are correct (I thought the park/neutral position switch (neutral start sw) was on the coil side of the starter relay, but it is on the switched side.) You could start with pulling the connector off the switch, and check for 12v on the black wire with 12v supplied to pin 3 of the start relay. Or, the cold start injector is powered through that switch; the green wire goes to ground through the CSI time switch (which should be closed with a cold engine) and the B-W should have 12v with your jumper. If it fails either test, you can just check the switch for continuity.

Unfortunately, the connector the the park/neutral position switch varies with different transmissions. The colors I give should be good, but I can't give you the pin-out.

 

Good info! I’ll give it another look.

Thanks.

 

No volts at the CSI with the jumper. I guess I’ll be removing the connector on the NSS and checking volts there next.

 

Well I’m getting power to the NSS. So I guess the next step is to take it off and find the issue. I’m hoping it just needs to be cleaned.

 

Before you take it off, use your ohmmeter (continuity mode is fine) to check to see if there is an open. Seems likely given the tests you've run so far, but a sanity check is often worthwhile.

 

I took it off before seeing your reply, sorry lol.

After cleaning the NSS it cranks and starts just fine. Now to address the head gasket unfortunately.

Thank you for the help!