Popping sound after BJ install
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Popping sound after BJ install
I installed the 1.5" SDORI spacers and after about a month of being on my 93' 4runner a popping sound developed. This first started occurring at low speed mostly when I was turning. My buddy said he could feel it under his feet in the passenger side. I can't visibly see anything and from what I have read it shouldn't be the CV joints with only the 1.5" spacers. Could this be the sway bar? Maybe a ball joint? I can't quite locate it when I listen. It also doesn't seem to be the shocks as I have read that could make the popping sound.
Anyway thanks.
Anyway thanks.
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I doubt it is the sway bar, but the shocks and sway bar are easy to diagnose.
Disconnect the sway bar, takes 5 minutes, drive it, see if it still does it.
For the shocks, close to home, find a low speed driving method that makes it happen every time. Take the shocks out, see if it does it.
It could be a ball joint. One thing I noticed when I did mine is that my stock, 134k ball joints had a "sweet spot" they were worn into, as the range of the suspension operated only in that area in stock form, for the most part. The new joints rotated freely through the entire range, but were tighter. The stock joints I took off where loose in a middle range, but then where very difficult to move outside of that range. I was glad I freshened those up.
Or, you could be binding a CV. Did you put in a diff drop kit? I did with mine and do not notice any popping. To check the CV, jack the rig up and rotate the tire at different turn settings, see if you notice any binding.
Also, as full lock, you run into the dreaded steering stop plastic cap issue. Get new caps at the dealer or grease the contact points on the LCA.
Good luck,
Mike
Disconnect the sway bar, takes 5 minutes, drive it, see if it still does it.
For the shocks, close to home, find a low speed driving method that makes it happen every time. Take the shocks out, see if it does it.
It could be a ball joint. One thing I noticed when I did mine is that my stock, 134k ball joints had a "sweet spot" they were worn into, as the range of the suspension operated only in that area in stock form, for the most part. The new joints rotated freely through the entire range, but were tighter. The stock joints I took off where loose in a middle range, but then where very difficult to move outside of that range. I was glad I freshened those up.
Or, you could be binding a CV. Did you put in a diff drop kit? I did with mine and do not notice any popping. To check the CV, jack the rig up and rotate the tire at different turn settings, see if you notice any binding.
Also, as full lock, you run into the dreaded steering stop plastic cap issue. Get new caps at the dealer or grease the contact points on the LCA.
Good luck,
Mike
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Thanks OutlawMike - that sounds like a good approach.
I did not install a drop kit because I didn't know they existed until after I bought the suspension kit. I am however ordering the kit soon.
I did not install a drop kit because I didn't know they existed until after I bought the suspension kit. I am however ordering the kit soon.
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You shouldnt need the diff drop unless your cranked your t-bars for an iditional 1" or so of lift..
I have sort of a similar thing, I can feel it under my feet sometimes under hardish hits on the hwy. Just as its getting to the end of its stroke it pops... im thinking balljoints..
I have sort of a similar thing, I can feel it under my feet sometimes under hardish hits on the hwy. Just as its getting to the end of its stroke it pops... im thinking balljoints..
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So, found out what this was...
Cam bolts.
I got the truck aligned and the alignment was way off - popping went away. No idea how cam bolts could make this but now the sound is gone.
Cam bolts.
I got the truck aligned and the alignment was way off - popping went away. No idea how cam bolts could make this but now the sound is gone.
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