I haven't tried it yet, still need air supply for the ADD. I going to use an ADD diff w/ compressor and welded the spider gear to the drive gears and to the carrier housing! I have manual locking hubs! I can run the hubs locked with the ADD disengaged in 4wd have one tire pulling in front and open diff in the rear, then when extra traction is needed just engage ADD and have fully locked front. Disegage and drive like normal truck again. I am using what I have lying around the house!

 

What? No pictures!?

 

Not yet! I am still debating on what to use as air supply for ADD! as soon as I get my camera fixed I will do a full write up with pics!

 

Doesn't it pull like crazy in 3WD?

 

I would think it would be weird only having the front right have power unless you engauge the ADD.

Doesnt the ADD take vacume, not pressure?

Hope it works

 

Just expirimenting for now, I had the ADD Diff and weld the gears installed it in the truck! I am going to try and go tommorrow to do some testing I locked hubs and drove around the yard seems to steer about the same! Will know more later! It will be great if it works(this is not for roackcrawlers) You are trying to get up a hill and spinning one tire just enage ADD and have fully locked front! I wouldn't think it would be any worst than driving a weld front end with a hub unlocked to get steering! I am doing this in a truck with manual shifting 4wd! lock and unlock ADD to gain steering and shift 2wd to 4wd to get traction. Drive on pavement with ADD unlocked and trails, muddy roads and moderate hills and rocks with ADD locked! I am trying something different!

 

i not sure never used ADD! Either way I would need some type of soleniod to control vaccum or air pressure. i am still reasearching! I have never heard of anyone trying this before. So I figured what the heck, I have all the parts and such. If it doesn't work I can always reinstall the open diff and install an aussie locker!

 

I still dont think you would want to run it in 4wd on a hard surface as there wont be any way to release the tension from the front. Even though one hub is unlocked you would still get the torque buildup.

My 95 runner had ADD, it was vacum. What you could do is plumb it like factory and instead of a xcase switch have a dash switch.

 

Shift to 2wd and unlock ADD just like driving open diff with hubs locked! That is the whole point of using ADD. To be able to leave hubs locked, shiht to 2wd and unlonk ADD so I don't have to get out and unlocked hubs(I am Lazy). With ADD unlocked is acts like open diff to steer on hard surface! If my thhinking is correct. I will see, if is isn't then I will just reinstall open diff and install a aussie locker!

 

not really, since one shaft isn't turning, you don't get the bind from having 2 tires try to go the same speed.

although yes, you will still bind the transfer case on a hard surface, but that'd happen with an open front diff anyway.

 

yep, very true

 

trx125 why don't you just put a switch to interupt power on the vac solenoid when you want to go disengage one side?
The was a post on here somewhere already talkin about adding a switch with a locker
I plan on doing this too when I get a front locker

 

trying to understand this, but wouldn't it work better if you welded the front and had manual hubs.....just engage t case and lock the hubs for 4wd with a locked front or unlock both hubs and disengage the tcase for 2wd while both front wheels spin free. Would this not work?....

 

I guess but yu'd either have to get out of the truck or not be able to use low range.

All these methods have serious compromises that using an ARB or elocker avoids (albeit at a price). I would just wheel it open in the front until I could afford to do it the right way...

 

Why is it that you wouldn't be able to use the low range?

 

Let me clear this up! I have welded the front diff and already have manual hubs(this is happening on a std cab pickup). I have the ADD tube and axles( I broke my non ADD diff and replaced with a ADD Diff) I don't have the vacuum valves and switch(to engage ADD) yet. I would like to be able to lock hubs(with add disengaged) and drive from place to place with steering characteristics of open diff(remembering the front is welded) then when I am riding trails I can engage 4wd(manual shift) and engage ADD(now fully locked front). When sharp turning(around trees and other osbstacles) is required I can disegage ADD and have some turning ability and still have one tire pulling(like open diff), then when done navigating the turns and obstacles, re-engage the ADD to have locked front for muddy roads, moderate hill/rock climbing etc. etc. These are parts I have laying around(most people have these laying around or can get them fairly cheap). Just a different way of doing things(reinventing the wheel) and expirimenting with parts I have laying around. I have another diff I am going to install an aussie locker in! I like to do stuff the hard way Anyone got the vacuum switching valves I can have or buy? I am going to get pics and do a semi-tech write up just for GP! I know some will say why would I do something crazy like this, but you never know not all folks are into extreme rock crawling( I have another 91 with blown motor I am going to use for that later)!

 

I forgot to add I AM A LAZY WHEELER!

 

You would only have 4 lo with a spooled front if you did it that way, I guess you would have 4Lo, but no steering actually... LOL

 

trx125 all you need is a vac solenoid & your good to go. I hope this works for you.

 

Where can I get one from and do I need the vacuum tank as well? Any you guys that sas their 4runner and still have the vacuum solenoid and the tank I can have for expiriment(will purschase from you)!