I just put rebuilt heads on my 3.0. It is running rough and when I was checking for vacuum leaks with the starter fluid I discovered that when the starter fluid was sprayed straight down on the back mounting bolts of the plentium on the on the drivers side the idle went up.

So I am planning on putting on a new gasket. Could it also be a warped plentium or intake manifold? Can they be ground down?


I used a felpro gasket last time and recommendations for the next one? Is there that much difference between Toyota and after market?

 

The plenum doesn't usually warp. Check the face of it with a straight-edge and if it is warped have a machine shop resurface it.

Did you retourque the bolts? If you replace the gasket be sure to have a clean surface to start with. Coat the surface lightly with rtv or your favorite gasket sealer, let it get tacky. Then place the gasket and tighten the bolts (in multiple steps) to the specified tourque from the center working outward.

I, used Engnbldr gaskets but any brand will work just check the gasket for imperfections or defects before installation.

 

Make sure you didn't leave any vacuum lines open back there...

 

Well, I took the plentium off and put a new gasket on it along with some sealer. The idle still goes up when starter fluid is sprayed down at the last bolt to the rear. Could it be leaking around the bolt? There is also a vacuum line down there that runs from the blue valve over to the throttle body. I replace the vacuum line and it may have helped a little. Could a person take out the bolt and put some gasket sealer around it?

I forgot to check the plentium for squarness when I had it off. Also I the CEL is coming on with a code 25 which could mean an air intake leak.

 

Try the same test with an UNLIT propane bottle. Place the nozzle DIRECTLY by the vacuum line to verify. If you've put a new gasket with sealer, you'd have to have a pretty warped plenum/intake to get a leak that significant. I'm voting for the vacuum line leak...

FYI: It's PLENUM. Plentium sounds like something they use in Star Trek!

 

I guess I should look at words closer. How will the propane affect it differently then starter fluid? My grandparents came from Bulls Gap TN 100 years ago to NE. I have never been back there but have talked to a few of my cousins over the phone.

Thanks.

 

Propane is generally accepted as a better alternative for checking leaks, because it will go directly to the leak whereas a liquid actually needs to physically hit the leak to show up. I still think you have a vacuum leak somewhere. Where exactly on the plenum are you showing the leak? Do you have a pic?

 

Today was weird as it was showing a leak around all of the bolts when I sprayed the starter fluid and it is sending out a weird code, seems like 2 dashes and then 4 then 1 dash and then 5. Once or twice when I am driving the CEL will not come on and it runs great. But when the check engine light comes on it really lugs the engine down and it has bad acceleration. I do not have a picture yet but I can get one if you think that could help. I tried the propane tonight and I think it was leaking through the valve at the back of the intake manifold with the two blue prongs sticking out. I put on a smaller vacuum hose and I think that it did help some.

 

 

According to Chicken Lover there really are Plentiums. Must be the glasses. Is this an actual picture of Chicken Lover?

 

 

Weird Al Yankovic...hahaha

 

I put a different O2 sensor on it today and the CEL is still on so tomorrow it goes to the local mechanic.

 

Did you reset the codes? It probably won't go away on it's own without pulling the "EFI" plug in the underhood fusebox...

When you say a "different" O2 sensor, what do you mean, exactly??

 

No I did not pull the fuse and put in a Bosch O2 sensor. I did unhook the battery. It felt like the timing was retarded before the O2 switch and after. Is it just the light pulling the fuse resets or will it not run right until the fuse is pulled and reset?

 

First of all, almost everybody on this forum will tell the Bosch O2 sensors don't work well with Toyota engines. I think it has something to do with the shortness of the sensor and it doesn't insert far enough into the exhaust to heat up properly.

Second, yes, you can unhook the battery for @ 15 minutes to reset the CEL codes.

Retarded timing could be the knock sensor. If it malfunctions, the engine basically goes into full retard mode.

 

roflmfao!!! its all about the plentinums! LOL sorry chicken lover I had to comment on that pic! hehehehe

 

The CEL ended up being the knock sensor wire a plug in the connectoring coming from the knock sensor had been pushed back and was not making the connection. the vacuum leak came from the injectors not being seated properly. the mechanic said to always give them a turn when pushing down on them. The vacuum leak was not coming from the plentium.