crimsonmane

hello. this is why i'm here. i have a 92 4Runner. Nothing works in the rear and by that i mean the wiper doesn't work, the window doesn't work, the defrost doesnt work, it won't spray window cleaner... and the front wipers dont work.

i am assuming that there is probably one all-encompassing problem that will fix this. so far i have checked all the fuses I can find (meaning inside the cab and under the hood). i have researched and found relay answers and all sorts of "make sure the wiper is retracted all the way."

i'm very certain the front wiper motor needs replaced.

i might need to get a whole new tailgate. the glass is fine. the gate is a bit rusted through in obscenely large sections from being used as a snowplow 4 years in wisconsin. it doesn't look like the gears are bad or seized. there's no sound of any kind (relay click or motor trying) when pressing the button or using the key in back.

will water/snow kill the guts inside the gate? where should i start? what gate can i look for other than specifically a 1992 4Runner (because honestly i'm not able to locate any at any junkyard. googling for this proves useless... i dont know how to locate this). should i not worry about replacing the gate?

the goal is i need either the window to work or a replacement window solution such as lift-window so that i can lower the gate and utilize the space back there.

i really appreciate any words of advice or encouragement!

i am available via email. upon special request i can be available via phone.

attn: Mods: plz relocate this if i have placed it in the wrong section.

Adk_Yota

do you have a test light? it will be your best friend for chasing down electrical problems. check the fuses with the test light. leave them plugged in and probe the 2 little metal spots on either side of the number on the fuse. could be a bad ground if all that stuff isn't working and fuses check out good. use the test light on all the parts that arent working. leave everything plugged in and probe the back side of the connectors to verify you have power going to what are you testing. if you have power check grounds. keep eliminating things and you will eventually figure it out. good luck!

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

Welcome to Yotatech!

:wabbit2:

crimsonmane

i have a busy week but this weekend i will get said test light or rig some wire to a lightbulb and test the fuses while they are in socket. would it be any easier to pull the fuses one by one and test the socket that way?

thanks for the welcome message mr wabbit

crimsonmane

I am sorry to ask... this does not appear to be a forums geared towards educating the novice.

I'm in the middle of replacing my fuel line in order to relocate the filter to a more accessible location. Reason being I'm also in the middle of a tune-up. One side of the fuel filter is blocked from access by part of the frame. While attempting removal, one wrench slipped off the nut and i twisted the line. It's old and rotted anyway since it was a snow plow truck for 4 years.

Anyway, I'm tracing the line, freeing it from the support brackets, when i discover that right around the tire area, the metal line goes into a rubber hose. The connector is a trumpet-like flare. I have not seen a connector like this in the store. Looks original, not after-market.

What is this bit called, how do i remove it (without cutting the hose), where can i get another bit like it, and what do i do to install the new one (as in special tool to pick up)? I don't have access to anything to pull the engine else i would and just replace the entire line with new metal. Pulling the engine is necessary because it appears the fuel line goes into the engine at the most inaccessible point. I'm not entirely comfortable cutting the line at an easily accessible point to use a coupler for new line... the entire line up to the hose is rusty old and a risk.

Any help would be appreciated.

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'92 4Runner v6

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

Moved to proper section

If one part of line is suspect I'd replace it all.

:wabbit2:

crimsonmane

thank you for relocating the post. i'll bookmark it so i go to the right location from now on.

yes, the metal is pretty much all suspect and i'm replacing all of that. however the rubber hose portion still looks brand new. it was well insulated/protected. i cannot replace this portion because it leads behind the engine where i cannot reach nor see, and don't have a puller.

What i'm after is info on this trumpet-looking flared connector. that is the point where the damaged metal ends because, well, that's where it goes into the hose. so the objective is to remove the line at this point and use the same connector type.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

It would be nice to know just what vehicle you are working on?/

I am not sure what fuel filter you are talking about.

Nor if it is fuel injected or carb.

As Wabbit said if it is bad may as well replace it all but these things like to break at the fuel pump bracket .

crimsonmane

parts store guy helped a lot. that trumpet looking connector is Stock and not available after market. so i cut the rubber hose at the base of the one side, new line up to filter. that part was a breeze. having trouble pushing the line into the rubber hose far enough to clamp it down with 2 high pressure clamps as instructed. probably could replace the rubber tubing entirely except where it connects behind the engine is not reachable to remove gonna figure it out tho.

crimsonmane

'92 4Runner (3VZ-E) 3.0L, 6 cyl
6 month old baby. running vehicle is a must.

Engine does not start very easily. When it does, idles at 1k or lower. Shakes badly. Had codes indicating bad Igniter telling injectors to shut down, and O2 Sensor reports engine running lean. Mechanic says O2 code is irrelevant due to Igniter behavior. This diagnosis comes from an ODB1 reader.

Prior to this, engine shook badly but started easy. I drove it once in this condition to the shop without being able to go over 30 mph. Might have been my own fears of causing damage, but that was the apparent limit. RPM's were too high and shifting occured later than it should have. I don't recall exactly, but i think it was shifting at 4.5k RPM. Acceleration was extremely slow.
-Replaced spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor cap & rotor, and the fuel filter & fuel line.

Today replaced Ignitor, and the engine became even more difficult to start. Had a squeaking like a loose or bad belt, and when turned the truck off seemed the engine halted with one final squeal. Removed belts, restarted truck, squeak was still there and when turned off the truck it still halted with one final squeal.

Am using words squeak and squeal because the squeak is light, the squeal is much louder almost in the pitch of bicycle brakes. Makes me think there's metal rubbing together somewhere.

More on difficult starting symptoms: engine turns over many times like a proper engine should, then turns over with great effort a couple times, then feels like it seizes; all indicator lights go off, battery gauge goes to zero. Release the key (to acc position) and gauges return to normal. I have to re-visit the fuel line/filter because one side of the filter is leaking gas (yes, i did put the O-Rings in), and the compression link further up the line has a minor leak. The connector at the fuel filter was tight, after starting the truck the first time my buddy saw the fuel leak. The connection was loose as if i had never tightened it down! Re-tightened. Haven't checked to see if it is loose again.

One or two days before all of this started, i was towing a 6'x9' trailer. Total weight I'm unsure of. There were 2 couches, a couple dressers, a lot of light boxes. I don't think it was anywhere near a thousand pounds. The truck ran effortlessly against this load using 1 to begin from a complete stop, 2 when the RPM reached 2.5 to 3k, then into drive at about the same. After returning the trailer, truck continued to drive with no problems.

As i said, it was either the next day or the day after that, while taking the child to school, the truck began jerking as if it needed gas. Tank was half full. This is when the shaking began. Shop said it was misfiring by the sound of it.

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So i started by describing to you the newest events, working backwards to the origin of it all.

What's going on? I'm all about DYI, becoming mechanically inclined. Lacking experience in the diagnostics department.

Thanks in advance for your help.