Please help with 1992 22RE Flooding issues
09-29-2016, 08:52 AM
#1
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Please help with 1992 22RE Flooding issues
Flooding Issues
1992 Toyota pickup 4WD 22re
This has been going on for several years. I have done a lot of testing and part replacement and still have an issue with flooding after the truck has sit for a few hours. Not every time though, just occasionally. After an oil change I noticed that the oil got black very quickly, the level on the dip stick was more than full and it smelled like fuel. I assumed it had gas in the oil pan so I knew the problem had gotten worse. After this happened I put on a new fuel filter, 4 rebuilt injectors, and a new fuel pressure regulator. I also removed the cold start injector and replaced its banjo bolt with a regular bolt. This seemed to eliminate the problem for a month or more. One morning after the truck had sat for 3 days or so, I went out to start it, did not touch the accelerator and turned the key. (It turns over quite a few times with the cold start injector removed) but then it fired right up. It would idle, but when I tried to give it gas it sputtered and smelled rich with gray smoke pouring out. After a minute or so of revving the engine, it smoothed out and ran fine. I drove it 37 miles to work and it ran fine. After work (8 hours later) I came out and it did the same thing fired up, but you could not give it gas. After a minute or so of smoking up the parking lot, it leaned out and ran fine for the 37 mile drive home. It has done it twice since then after sitting for a few hours.
I can’t tell if there is gas in the oil pan again but the oil level does seem to be higher than what I put in there.
I don’t know what to do next but I am thinking of replacing the fuel pump. I also thought about putting a battery shut of switch on so I could disconnect the battery when it was sitting for a few days to see the injectors were leaking when the switch was off.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks
1992 Toyota pickup 4WD 22re
This has been going on for several years. I have done a lot of testing and part replacement and still have an issue with flooding after the truck has sit for a few hours. Not every time though, just occasionally. After an oil change I noticed that the oil got black very quickly, the level on the dip stick was more than full and it smelled like fuel. I assumed it had gas in the oil pan so I knew the problem had gotten worse. After this happened I put on a new fuel filter, 4 rebuilt injectors, and a new fuel pressure regulator. I also removed the cold start injector and replaced its banjo bolt with a regular bolt. This seemed to eliminate the problem for a month or more. One morning after the truck had sat for 3 days or so, I went out to start it, did not touch the accelerator and turned the key. (It turns over quite a few times with the cold start injector removed) but then it fired right up. It would idle, but when I tried to give it gas it sputtered and smelled rich with gray smoke pouring out. After a minute or so of revving the engine, it smoothed out and ran fine. I drove it 37 miles to work and it ran fine. After work (8 hours later) I came out and it did the same thing fired up, but you could not give it gas. After a minute or so of smoking up the parking lot, it leaned out and ran fine for the 37 mile drive home. It has done it twice since then after sitting for a few hours.
I can’t tell if there is gas in the oil pan again but the oil level does seem to be higher than what I put in there.
I don’t know what to do next but I am thinking of replacing the fuel pump. I also thought about putting a battery shut of switch on so I could disconnect the battery when it was sitting for a few days to see the injectors were leaking when the switch was off.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks
09-29-2016, 05:25 PM
#3
Have you sent your injectors out to witchunter for cleaning? Anyway one must be leaking by bleeding off line pressure. Is your PVC working at all? The only way to get gas in the oil is for an injector to be open.
Now gas in the oil is a problem, it will cut the oil and speed up wear on every moving part.
Now gas in the oil is a problem, it will cut the oil and speed up wear on every moving part.
10-02-2016, 05:23 PM
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To OSV, No it is not throwing any codes.
To skypilot, I just replaced all four injectors with remanufactured ones from Rock Auto. The PCV valve seems to be working, why did you ask that? I thought it was the cold star injector leaking , but it is currently removed and blocked off. Then I thought maybe the vacuum line from the fuel pressure regulator was sucking gas back into the manifold so I replaced the fuel pressure regulator too. I'm guess at this point, but I am going to do the fuel pump next.
To skypilot, I just replaced all four injectors with remanufactured ones from Rock Auto. The PCV valve seems to be working, why did you ask that? I thought it was the cold star injector leaking , but it is currently removed and blocked off. Then I thought maybe the vacuum line from the fuel pressure regulator was sucking gas back into the manifold so I replaced the fuel pressure regulator too. I'm guess at this point, but I am going to do the fuel pump next.
10-04-2016, 12:14 AM
#5
Just because they were replaced does not mean one has not failed already.
ECU causing them to remain open time for some Noid lights
Disconnecting the battery will not help as the fuel system still has pressure that pressure needs to be relieved to stop any leaking
It would be pretty hard to have the fuel pump run after the ignition was turned off you would need a failed ignition switch along with the EFI relay The AFM switch and the COR relay and the engine would not shutoff as well
If one had a strange combination of a Failed Fuel pump regulator and a very abnormally high fuel pressure it can be possible to push past the injectors as they are just solenoids
I would think a bad injector is more likely
ECU causing them to remain open time for some Noid lights
Disconnecting the battery will not help as the fuel system still has pressure that pressure needs to be relieved to stop any leaking
It would be pretty hard to have the fuel pump run after the ignition was turned off you would need a failed ignition switch along with the EFI relay The AFM switch and the COR relay and the engine would not shutoff as well
If one had a strange combination of a Failed Fuel pump regulator and a very abnormally high fuel pressure it can be possible to push past the injectors as they are just solenoids
I would think a bad injector is more likely
10-04-2016, 03:57 AM
#6
Rockauto is a website. They buy a catalog of parts and post it. It has no specific meaning of quality, just a pathway to a hard to find part, and a way for distributors to unload dead inventory.
One of them may be very well stuck open. I would strongly suggest sending all of your injectors to witchhunters for cleaning & testing.
One of them may be very well stuck open. I would strongly suggest sending all of your injectors to witchhunters for cleaning & testing.
10-04-2016, 01:59 PM
#7
if it's a stuck injector problem it would have be an intermittent sticking issue, because if the injector was stuck open all the time, the truck would run pretty badly all the time.
he replaced all four injectors, and he's still having the same problem that he had with the original set of injectors... two sets of injectors being faulty seems like a long shot.
the symptoms do seem to point to an injector issue, tho, so if it can't be an injector per se, what could be holding an injector open intermittently? dirt in the fuel system, or an electrical problem??
he replaced all four injectors, and he's still having the same problem that he had with the original set of injectors... two sets of injectors being faulty seems like a long shot.
the symptoms do seem to point to an injector issue, tho, so if it can't be an injector per se, what could be holding an injector open intermittently? dirt in the fuel system, or an electrical problem??
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10-06-2016, 06:33 AM
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It was doing exactly thee same thing before I replaced the injectors. The re-man injectors from Rock Auto were from GB remanufacturing and they state "100% of GB products are tested to meet and/or exceed OEM specifications and parameters". After I replaced the injectors it did the same thing, then I blocked off the cold start injector and it did it again, then I replaced the fuel pressure regulator and it quit doing it for a 5 weeks or so, now it is doing it again. I checked for voltage to the injectors with the ignition off and got 0 readings. I guess it could be occasionally sending voltage to the injectors but that seems unlikely. That's why I thought about disconnecting the battery or pulling the EFI relay, I know there would still be pressure, but there would be no voltage holding an injector open.
10-07-2016, 07:25 AM
#9
if it's a stuck injector problem it would have be an intermittent sticking issue, because if the injector was stuck open all the time, the truck would run pretty badly all the time.
he replaced all four injectors, and he's still having the same problem that he had with the original set of injectors... two sets of injectors being faulty seems like a long shot.
the symptoms do seem to point to an injector issue, tho, so if it can't be an injector per se, what could be holding an injector open intermittently? dirt in the fuel system, or an electrical problem??
he replaced all four injectors, and he's still having the same problem that he had with the original set of injectors... two sets of injectors being faulty seems like a long shot.
the symptoms do seem to point to an injector issue, tho, so if it can't be an injector per se, what could be holding an injector open intermittently? dirt in the fuel system, or an electrical problem??
10-07-2016, 08:12 AM
#10
No its not. QC these days is for the birds. Gas gets into the engine through the five injectors. If you plug the CS, there are only four possible culprits, only a tester can figure out which. Now if the ignition is off, there should no power anywhere to drive all four injectors at once, and the fuel pump. Have you checked you relays for sticking(not likely).
i don't see how that can be normal behavior on a 22re, since there aren't any timing pulses being generated by an engine that's not rotating.
10-07-2016, 08:20 PM
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Hmm, You replaced the fuel pressure regulator and it solved the problem... for a little bit, and then it came back. Pull the vacuum hose off your fuel pressure regulator and see if it is wet or smells of fuel. It is entirely possible the FPR went out (I've seen it happen more than once), they can leak through the valve to the vacuum port and the engine will suck the fuel out while running and it will bleed out while off. This may explain why your engine runs great AFTER you have burnt all the excess fuel out, but loads up with fuel after sitting.
10-14-2016, 09:20 AM
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I didn't say anything about injectors clicking, I'm not sure where that came from. I checked all the grounds, they were fine. I tried an ECU form another truck and it did he same thing.
To TC22E: I have pulled the vacuum line from the FPR off several times thinking that it could be bleeding fuel into the manifold, but it was always dry. I guess I could take that vacuum line off and see what it does. The FPR has a one year warranty, I could take it back and try another one.
QUESTION: Could the fuel pump cause the fuel pressure regulator to go bad?
To TC22E: I have pulled the vacuum line from the FPR off several times thinking that it could be bleeding fuel into the manifold, but it was always dry. I guess I could take that vacuum line off and see what it does. The FPR has a one year warranty, I could take it back and try another one.
QUESTION: Could the fuel pump cause the fuel pressure regulator to go bad?
10-15-2016, 04:53 AM
#14
No; the pump is small and is just adequate for the job. I do not believe it could over power anything. Even if it were over pressure the injectors should hold it. AN fittings are expensive but perhaps you can plumb in a FP gauge to see what is going on. I'm tempted to offer you the one off my truck that I know works. I do have a spare I could put on to test it as well. All the vacuum line does is reduce pressure for normal operation.
Have you blown out the return line to the tank? Have you taken the return line off and put it into a bucket to see if it actually bypasses fuel around in response to a vacuum signal? Is the O2 sensor any good? I just replaced mine for an over rich condition and it seems to have helped greatly.
Have you blown out the return line to the tank? Have you taken the return line off and put it into a bucket to see if it actually bypasses fuel around in response to a vacuum signal? Is the O2 sensor any good? I just replaced mine for an over rich condition and it seems to have helped greatly.
10-17-2016, 08:21 AM
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I tested the pump with a loaner pressure gauge kit from Autozone about a year ago, it tested fine at the time. I went by the Toyota service manual. I should probably test it again.
I have not tried blowing out the return line.
I replaced the O2 sensor about a year ago also, it didn't change anything.
I have not tried blowing out the return line.
I replaced the O2 sensor about a year ago also, it didn't change anything.
12-03-2016, 05:22 PM
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Ok, I replaced the fuel pump. I also decided to replace the fuel pump mount as the steel lines were very rusted. Anyway it fired up and ran fine the first two or three times, then after about a ten mile trip, it sat for 20 minutes and when I tried to start it, it was flooded. Black smoke, smelling like raw fuel, would barely idol. after 2 or 3 minutes of revving the engine it leaned out. I shut it off and 10 minutes later it did the same thing. It actually seems to be worse with the new fuel pump. I took out the banjo bolt for the cold start injector and replaced it with a regular bolt, waited about 10 minutes and tried to start it........still flooded.
I'm ready to give up.
I'm ready to give up.
12-15-2016, 04:43 PM
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Another update: The problem got worse with the new fuel pump. I decided to run it until it leaned out then I shut it off and unhooked the negative battery cable, I waited until the next day and it started, not flooded. I revved it a few times to make sure it was running right and shut it off and unhooked the battery again. I've done this 4 times, the last time waiting about 3 days to start it and it has started fine every time. So could it be and electrical issue causing an injector to stay open? It's not the cold start because it is currently blocked off. A bad harness maybe? I may put a video on youtube and then post a link to it here, that way you can see and hear what it does. any ideas?
