yeah, I was going to say something, but I didn't want to sound like a jerk,

I was thinking "why is he posting clearance pics from 10 feet away where you can't see much of anything?"

I might have missed it but are all those pics with bj spacers?

 

Looks good Frank...

I've been running my 33x12.5" Durango MT's like this for a little over 1 years now with Zero issues... (other than they do rub a little bit) I've got a 2" body lift to go in, as well as a 4" suspension lift. So That'll fix my clearance issues, and create 2 more on the spindles - so then 1" wheel spacers go on...



No need to worry. Like I have said NO issues.....

 

Gotcha...much better

 

Actually, with a narrower rim the opposite is true. They are less likely to pop a bead than a wider rim would.

The only potential issue could odd wear but as you can see from 91 4Runner they are wearing well.

Frank

 

Open a front door and get a buddy to stand on the door sill and lean out to get the suspension to stuff, that way you can see how much is will take to rub.


That worked on my Samurai but the 4Runners are a little heavier.

 

I'm going to run it up on my ramps today and see what's up. I'll take some pics of what I trimmed and all.

I'll probably add this all to the website too so it will be here and there for future use.

Frank

 

Welcome to the world of 33x12's
i like how original the vehicle looks with 33's.

 

In my case it's welcome back. I had the same size on my 89's with a 4" bracket kit and 1.5" spacers. I like the lower look myself and also find it much more functional. The taller the vehicle the less the IFS flexes.

Frank

 

I don't know that ramps will do it.

Best way I have to get the front to flex is a jack under the balljoint and a jackstand under the opposite rear corner.

 

Any issues with the inside of the rear tire rubbing the frame under full stuff. I just put some 12.5's on a set of stockers on my truck. I went and drove over some rocks and I am getting awefully close to the frame with the rears, and I'm not at full stuff yet.

I think I may have to get some 4 or 3.75 BS rims. I had no problems with the 3.75" steelies that I was using b4. Too bad I really like the stock split 4 spokes.

My 10.5's had absolutely no clearance issues on them but I have gotten used to the wider tires and am going to stick with them I think.

 

So far I'm good with the rear axle. I took a bunch of pics of the front and will post up later. I'm close but I"m not hitting.

Frank

 

good posting!

 

so there is no problems with the heavier tires? you are not breaking anything? I eventually plan on doing the ball joint spacers and cruiser coils. so is this all you need to pull this off?

 

i have the same size... I had to bash the fender a bit like right in front of the doors... where the mud flap would attach.its weird.... try this frank check it not at full lock but at half lock. mine doesnt rub at full lock only half lock LOL maybe its cause I have wheel spacers and it throws the geometery a bit. I am going to get some 32x9.5 if I can find some . I think that would give me the best performance. i need to gear up a bit these 4.10's dont like 33's........ anyone know what years use like 4.56? I want to grab some used 3rds from some junkers.

 

Hey bryan.. I have a set of stock 4.56 gears for sale complete rear 3rd and a semi-complete front diff

 

....... really eh..... hmmm how much you want for em?

 

hey frank, i have almost the exact same setup as you "1994 4runner, 3.0, auto, 4.88's," hows it on fuel when wheeling? and what kinda terrain are you getting into with this setup? full stuff on the ramps and real world on the trail type stuff are alittle different. with my 31x 10.5 and stock height etc i get rubbing on my front valence but i know alot of people won't.

lol hey to you two fellow bc boys above, just noticed your locations.

 

Well I did some trimming today. I can see why 2" body lifts are recommended. I needed 2 more inches. I have a 1" bodylift awaiting install but for now it's off. My hope is these pictures can serve to show someone what they will need to do if they want to install 33X12.5's without a body lift or with just a small one (1")

I disconnect the front sway bar but left the rear on to get the most flex out of the front. I turned the wheel full lock and drove onto these ramps. This was to produce a worst case rubbing scenario.

http://sdori.com/eventimages/trimming1.jpg

This is about all the flex I typically get on the trail. I might get a bit more but usually I'm about to lift a wheel at this point.

http://sdori.com/eventimages/trimming2.jpg

The interference.

http://sdori.com/eventimages/trimming3.jpg

This shows how much up travel remains assuming I could get it to flex farther. What this means is I need to have some breathing room to accommodate this. Likely my 1" 4crawler body lift will do the trick. I just need to install it.

http://sdori.com/eventimages/trimming5.jpg

This is a view from the bottom of where I am to cut.

http://sdori.com/eventimages/trimming6.jpg

This shows the area one needs to cut and hammer.

http://sdori.com/eventimages/trimming7.jpg

Here I just need to fasten the plastic down. There is room behind it. I actually tucked the bottom into the remaining fender. This retains the splash guard functionality of the plastic.

http://sdori.com/eventimages/trimming8.jpg

Here it is with the plastic fastened down.

http://sdori.com/eventimages/trimming9.jpg

This shows the other side. I had to fold the lip back more to have some extra clearance.

http://sdori.com/eventimages/trimming10.jpg

This was very easy to do and took less than an hour. Obviously you need some of these ramps or equivalent to flex out your suspension and see where the clearing needs to take place.

Frank

 

Wow, I now realize how much of a difference backspacing makes. Mine are 10 1/2 wide with 4 1/2 BS running 33x12.5x15 and the closest the tire meets the inner fender at any point on the turn radius is 1". I felt that a 1" BL would help out at full stuff on mine, but I can see where you'll need more. How much trimming was done to the valance in front, I started at the bottom about 1 1/2" to 0" at the top giving me about 2 1/4" wiggle room. Can you post up some views of turning clearance.

 

elripster ... hate to say I told you so ...

Dublin - I had a hard time understanding your post - is your rubbing better or worse? (I would assume worse)