Philbert

iTrader: (2)

I'm heading to Lowe's today to get some replacement high grade bolts for the crossmember to frame mounting. I brought my OEM bolts with me to match.

Last night when I was looking at it with my tap and die set, the thread seemed to be 1.25mm (which seems pretty standard for this truck I'm finding), but I didn't have a die large enough for the bolt.

QUESTION: It appears the OEM bolts are tapered at the tip - is this normal/needed for replacements, or just the way they happen to be? I'm wondering if there will be any issue with me threading in a bolt that is uniform in thickness, from end to end? I plan to get a tap/die for this size and at least tap out the threads on the truck so it mounts better this go round....

skypilot

iTrader: (1)

The bolts are tapered so you can shoot them in with an impact gun & one hand.
You need a re-threader tap, not a normal tap, since you are restoring threads that are there, not making new ones. Sears has a re-threading kit for metric & inch.

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

Thanks Skypilot.

I did some online searching just now and it appears the taps and thread chasers out there appear the same:



I've used my tap set from Craftsman to chase threads in my 4runner for the hard top bolts, and the seat mounting bolts, without issue.

So, would using a "tap" that looks like the one in the photo instead of a "thread chaser" be fine for what I'm planning to do?

Thx

aquaprice

You can chase the threads with a tap, you just have to be careful doing it. Another option is taking a bolt & cutting grooves into the threads (angled a bit lengthwise). This will act as a channel for garbage to come out of the threads.

Blackulua

I use Redline MT90 GL4 made for Toyotas and I use it on all of my transmission with no issues and very smooth shifting.
I have the Amsoil GL4 but have not tried it out yet.

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

Ok, bellhousing bolts torqued, starter installed, clutch slave installed, front driveshaft hooked up.....and that is it tonight.

Still need to hook up speedometer, and various wires....there are a lot more wires and plugs from the new tranny than on my truck...hmmmm.

Also need to drop crossmember, chase threads, and install new 12 x 1.25 grade 8 bolts.

Oh, and oil!

skypilot

iTrader: (1)

They look similar but lack the bite. If you use a real tap you have to be careful because they like to eat metal. So there is less thread to hold the bolt. Bolt holes are only cut on 70% engagement so after corrosion its better to keep all you can.

mtnhrdgr2

Hey Phil, I've been so busy, I finally caught up on your progress this morning. Way to go!

As far as oil, once I hit 1K miles on my rebuild, I am draining it out and putting in Redline MT90 GL4. It is cheapest to buy online if you can get free shipping, otherwise Winchester Auto has been the constant store around me that had these in stock for a decent price.

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

Hey Gulliver - great to hear from you and thanks!

well, mine's not a rebuild - just used - so does it need to have the re-oil at 1,000 you think? I was planning on putting in over $70 in Amsoil - would hate to do that and do it again right after. Better to put cheaper oil in for the first 1,000, then drain/refill with the "good stuff"?

Don't want to skimp, but don't want to throw money away......

mtnhrdgr2

I know your tranny is not a rebuild, but I personally would put in a 'regular' tranny oil (or a detergent oil - but these will be around $12/13 a quart) and let that work around to clean up any gunk in the tranny. Then drain and refill.

I am only replacing mine because it has new bearings in there. I am waiting 1K miles to give the new bearings time to 'shave off' whatever excess metals it has. Normally this is more for new gears and not new bearings, but I dont like the oil the tranny shop put in there.

The tranny shop put in Valvoline GL5 so I was going to replace it with a GL4 anyways. I like Valvoline, but I want GL4.

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

Thanks, that makes sense. I think I'll take that approach too. Can't wait to tear apart the old tranny and see what happened inside lol....

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

Spent last night chasing threads for all the crossmember bolts and it went fine....used wd40 to maintain lubrication.

Also installed the shifters, marlin polyurethane seat and bushing.

Hooked up driveshaft and speedometer cable...NO idea how I am going to rupert those bolts down...no room for a wrench! Planning to use two 14mm hand wrenches and just give em hell...

The last thing I cannot finish is installing the for small bolts that mount the crossmember to the transfer case mount from trail gear. I was able to three of them but cannot line up that last hole. I am thinking of loosening the eight frame bolts for the crossmember, then raising the transmission a half inch, so I can wiggle things around more. ANY SUGGESTIONS?

Just that, and figuring out the wires and plugs underneath, and I am ready for oil!!


Just that, and wires

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

That's all you can do on dshaft bolts.
Blue loc tite.

Try mounting tcase first, then crossmember. It just takes some finagling and holding your mouth right.

:wabbit2:

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

OK, got it all together and got gear oil and another 14mm wrench.

I CANNOT find the torque specs for the 8 crossmember to frame bolts in the FSM... ANYONE??

Phil

irab88

iTrader: (4)

70 ft-lb

http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1993/manualtrans/7remov.pdf

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

God bless you Ian - thanks!

irab88

iTrader: (4)

no problem

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

Well, last night I put in the GL4 gear oil (what a PITA....there's got to be a better way than using the hand pump and short hose that I did), locktite and tightened the drive shaft bolts, torqued the crossmember/frame bolts.

Today, I reconnected the batttery and started her up. I was a little freaked out at first because when I slowly released the clutch in reverse, nothing happened. Then I realized the transfer case was in neutral

The front hubs were locked (from my rotating the front shaft by hand while installing/removing, so I was in 4WD for about 50 yards....drove to a dirt parking lot a few doors down and confirmed that I was indeed in 4WD (could see front Driveshaft rotating through the floor). On the dirt I tested out 4WD high and low and both worked. I then went back to 2WD, and backup up to unlock the hubs - this time it worked and the front driveshaft stopped rotating.

I drove it around the block in 2WD through all 5 gears and it sounds about as "normal" as can be - no whining, grinding or dragging.

I'm SOOOOOO excited to get this thing back on the road - I miss it!

So, now, my garage floor is pretty much covered in grease and gear oil. It's one of those paint on grey with white and black flakes floors, so things DO WIPE up off of it, but it's pretty covered. I was going to soak a rag in dish soap and warm water and just move it around the floor...any other ideas for this?


I want to say a HUGE THANK YOU to everyone who helped me out on this thread - your advice has been invaluable, and I really hope this thread helps someone else like me down the line.

Next projects:
- Install Tuffy center console
- Chevy Springs (need to hook up that dang welder already and start practicing!)


Cheers!

Phil

irab88

iTrader: (4)

gear oil into trans:

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...l#post51593373

(the clear hose goes all the way to the bottom of the container)



and for cleanup, try spraying some degreaser on the tougher spots. it worked for me in letting the towels absorb the oil/grease easier.

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

OMG Ian that *IS* genius!! I should have asked before I did this last night...took me over an HOUR for both T case and transmission (and messy).

So, the tube where the fluid flows OUT must reach all the way to the bottom of the oil bottle, right? And the air-inducing hose (I have barbs like I think you used) just needs to enter in the top, where there is air, and needs to be sealed up....how did you create the seals BTW?