Philbert's 87 4runner W56 tranny swap/build thread
#141
Registered User
iTrader: (4)
a slightly smaller hole than the tube. no, really. it worked well, but if you want a really good seal, put some sealant (goop works well, rtv should too) on the inside. i need to fill mine soon, so i'm making a container out of a mason jar and spare air fittings
for the "air-in" fitting, i just held it.
for the "air-in" fitting, i just held it.
#143
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Hawaii
Posts: 229
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I usually take out my shifters and pour the required amount of GL4 oil down the manual trans and transfer case and whole less mess to deal with.Just got to make sure you dump out the old oil out of the trans.
#148
Registered User
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Pleasanton, CA - SF Bay Area
Posts: 2,159
Likes: 0
Received 7 Likes
on
5 Posts
150 mile update
So, since Wednesday, I drove it roundtrip to the the airport, left it 2 days, and drove back. Yesterday, took about a 100 mile RT to a friend's birthday party.
Sounds/feels great. No grinding, whirring, dragging or other sounds we had before. Feels good too, with smooth shifts.
The ONLY issue I have right now is that, when parked after a drive, thereis a very slow oil leak from the transmission drain plug. I checked today, and it's not a question of it being tight enough - it's *on* there, and I have no intentionstripping out the threads I cleaned up the area with some brake cleaner and rags, and applied some RTVsilicon around the drain plug, hoping that would seal it up. I plan to change the oil at 1,000 miles anyway, so am I missing something? Was there a crush washer that should have been there? Would love your input on this, as I'm tired of leaving oil stains in my driveway (my 32 year old Datsun does this enough.....).
Secondly, I did not use blue locktite on the transmission/crossmember bolts. Should I have? I guess I am most concerned about the 4 the smaller bolts that hold the crossmember to the trailgear mount, since the bolts are so small and the torque setting is low.
And, lastly, unrelated....I have autometer aftermarket gauges in my cab, and after this job (truck was sitting for a while, even before I started) the water temp gauge stopped reading. When I turn to ACC, the needle wiggled a little at the 100* mark, but never, ever creeps up during a drive. The OEM dash gauge moves to its normal setting once I'm driving, but the autometer unit never moves. I have yet to do any resistance readings on it, but the wiring is all correct (as it was brefore when it was working). Could this be that the sender may have gotten corroded while sitting? If so, is it easy to clean - what should I use?
Thanks again guys for all your help!
Gulliver - I have your jack, cleaned up, and can bring it this week - let me know when's a good time to meet up?
Sounds/feels great. No grinding, whirring, dragging or other sounds we had before. Feels good too, with smooth shifts.
The ONLY issue I have right now is that, when parked after a drive, thereis a very slow oil leak from the transmission drain plug. I checked today, and it's not a question of it being tight enough - it's *on* there, and I have no intentionstripping out the threads I cleaned up the area with some brake cleaner and rags, and applied some RTVsilicon around the drain plug, hoping that would seal it up. I plan to change the oil at 1,000 miles anyway, so am I missing something? Was there a crush washer that should have been there? Would love your input on this, as I'm tired of leaving oil stains in my driveway (my 32 year old Datsun does this enough.....).
Secondly, I did not use blue locktite on the transmission/crossmember bolts. Should I have? I guess I am most concerned about the 4 the smaller bolts that hold the crossmember to the trailgear mount, since the bolts are so small and the torque setting is low.
And, lastly, unrelated....I have autometer aftermarket gauges in my cab, and after this job (truck was sitting for a while, even before I started) the water temp gauge stopped reading. When I turn to ACC, the needle wiggled a little at the 100* mark, but never, ever creeps up during a drive. The OEM dash gauge moves to its normal setting once I'm driving, but the autometer unit never moves. I have yet to do any resistance readings on it, but the wiring is all correct (as it was brefore when it was working). Could this be that the sender may have gotten corroded while sitting? If so, is it easy to clean - what should I use?
Thanks again guys for all your help!
Gulliver - I have your jack, cleaned up, and can bring it this week - let me know when's a good time to meet up?
#150
Registered User
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Pleasanton, CA - SF Bay Area
Posts: 2,159
Likes: 0
Received 7 Likes
on
5 Posts
Thanks Mark (it is Mark, right? ).
That sounds like a part I need to track down. Do you happen to have the part number handy for the transfter case plug too? It's not leaking but might as well replace when I do the oil in 1,000 miles......
Honestly, I don't recall it it was on there or not. I know whatever was there did not rotate like a washer - if it was there, it had fused into a "collar" on the plug....but my gut is telling me that there was not a crush washer on there at all...I recall wondering if it would be more obvious at the time....shame on me for not checking earlier.
Ah well
That sounds like a part I need to track down. Do you happen to have the part number handy for the transfter case plug too? It's not leaking but might as well replace when I do the oil in 1,000 miles......
Honestly, I don't recall it it was on there or not. I know whatever was there did not rotate like a washer - if it was there, it had fused into a "collar" on the plug....but my gut is telling me that there was not a crush washer on there at all...I recall wondering if it would be more obvious at the time....shame on me for not checking earlier.
Ah well
#154
Registered User
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Pleasanton, CA - SF Bay Area
Posts: 2,159
Likes: 0
Received 7 Likes
on
5 Posts
Drip, Drip, Drip
OK, so I have about 400 miles on this replacement and it's great. I have a little vibration at 55 MPH frmo teh TG mount, but nothing above or below that.
My issue right now is leaks!
The W56 I got must have been rebuilt at some point - there was dried FIPG around the seams where the T case and the tranny mount up - there is a metal spacer there that is aboutan inch thick. I'm noticing now that when parked, there is some seeping coming from there - see photos below.
Do you guys have suggestions on how to fix the leak? I am going to change out the oil in 600 miles anyway, and do new washer/gaskets on the fill/drain plugs (see posts above), and was thinking I could drain the oil, spray brake cleaner all over the leaking area, get it dry and clean....and then smear FIPG over it, really getting it into the seams between the T case and the tranny.
Is that crazy? Will it work? Any other ideas that do not involve pulling the thing apart? I really don't want to go there again
Thanks!
My issue right now is leaks!
The W56 I got must have been rebuilt at some point - there was dried FIPG around the seams where the T case and the tranny mount up - there is a metal spacer there that is aboutan inch thick. I'm noticing now that when parked, there is some seeping coming from there - see photos below.
Do you guys have suggestions on how to fix the leak? I am going to change out the oil in 600 miles anyway, and do new washer/gaskets on the fill/drain plugs (see posts above), and was thinking I could drain the oil, spray brake cleaner all over the leaking area, get it dry and clean....and then smear FIPG over it, really getting it into the seams between the T case and the tranny.
Is that crazy? Will it work? Any other ideas that do not involve pulling the thing apart? I really don't want to go there again
Thanks!
#156
Registered User
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Pleasanton, CA - SF Bay Area
Posts: 2,159
Likes: 0
Received 7 Likes
on
5 Posts
New Noise....
Well, I have about 800 miles driven since the swap, and aside from the annoying leak (ANY IDEAS WELCOME...) it's been great.
Just yesterday I started to notice a new sound that I can't identify:
- Only happens from a dead stop in first gear and between 5 and 15 MPH.
- Does not appear when decelerating in 1st/2nd gear to 5-15 MPH
- Sounds like a metalling rubbing/scraping noise - kind of like a card in a bicycle spoke but metal
- Does not exist above 15 MPH
- bolts all appear at least hand tight and I can't spot any places where the DS is rubbing against anything
- Front DS is not rotating, so it's not in 4WD by accident
- Happens either in straight line acceleration or turning left or right
- Happens under load only, but only from 5-15 MPH
I'm perplexed....any ideas?
Just yesterday I started to notice a new sound that I can't identify:
- Only happens from a dead stop in first gear and between 5 and 15 MPH.
- Does not appear when decelerating in 1st/2nd gear to 5-15 MPH
- Sounds like a metalling rubbing/scraping noise - kind of like a card in a bicycle spoke but metal
- Does not exist above 15 MPH
- bolts all appear at least hand tight and I can't spot any places where the DS is rubbing against anything
- Front DS is not rotating, so it's not in 4WD by accident
- Happens either in straight line acceleration or turning left or right
- Happens under load only, but only from 5-15 MPH
I'm perplexed....any ideas?
#158
Registered User
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Pleasanton, CA - SF Bay Area
Posts: 2,159
Likes: 0
Received 7 Likes
on
5 Posts
Hey Dario,
Hard to tell but its from the front and in the transmission general area...I drove around in the parking lot with the shifter boots off to see if I could hear better, but can't tell. Its so weird....also happens in reverse.
Hard to tell but its from the front and in the transmission general area...I drove around in the parking lot with the shifter boots off to see if I could hear better, but can't tell. Its so weird....also happens in reverse.
#159
Contributing Member
Leaks and noises can be spooky and a PIA.
I have found that leaks cannot be fixed without taking the parts apart and redoing the seal. If that means removing the transmission then the good news or silver lining is that you know how to do that and things like that are a whole lot easer when you have experience. Also as long as the truck is working you can schedule the leak fix for when you have time. You can take a breather from crawling under the machine until the trails close up again next winter.
I just got my annual engine repairs done and do not plan on taking my truck out of service again until next winter. In the mean time I am installing armor and collecting parts for my lockers and F150 spring swap.
I have found that leaks cannot be fixed without taking the parts apart and redoing the seal. If that means removing the transmission then the good news or silver lining is that you know how to do that and things like that are a whole lot easer when you have experience. Also as long as the truck is working you can schedule the leak fix for when you have time. You can take a breather from crawling under the machine until the trails close up again next winter.
I just got my annual engine repairs done and do not plan on taking my truck out of service again until next winter. In the mean time I am installing armor and collecting parts for my lockers and F150 spring swap.
#160
Registered User
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Pleasanton, CA - SF Bay Area
Posts: 2,159
Likes: 0
Received 7 Likes
on
5 Posts
UPDATE - back on the road!
I haven't updated this thread in so long I realized!
I actually had started another thread on the leak I encountered with the replacement transmission:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...ission-251407/
I ended up taking it out again, taking it apart, and redoing the seals using red FIPG.
I finally got everything back together tonight.
Transmission is in, U joint is replaced (I had about 1/8" play in the main driveshaft's front U Joint...that may explain the strange noises I was getting when starting from a stop....), new front seal and sleeve are in, oil pan is resealed/installed.
I took it out for a spin tonight and tried out 4WD in a nearby dirt lot and it shifts GREAT. Now we'll see if I fixed that leak after all since it's parked in my driveway.....
Thanks everyone for their help along the way with this project!
Here it is tonight, playing in the dirt:
Phil
I actually had started another thread on the leak I encountered with the replacement transmission:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...ission-251407/
I ended up taking it out again, taking it apart, and redoing the seals using red FIPG.
I finally got everything back together tonight.
Transmission is in, U joint is replaced (I had about 1/8" play in the main driveshaft's front U Joint...that may explain the strange noises I was getting when starting from a stop....), new front seal and sleeve are in, oil pan is resealed/installed.
I took it out for a spin tonight and tried out 4WD in a nearby dirt lot and it shifts GREAT. Now we'll see if I fixed that leak after all since it's parked in my driveway.....
Thanks everyone for their help along the way with this project!
Here it is tonight, playing in the dirt:
Phil