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Philbert's 87 4Runner Head Gasket & head replacement - take II

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Old Mar 8, 2013 | 08:59 AM
  #121  
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Picked up my lower intake manifold today on way to work, with the 1/8" NPT hole drilled and tapped - sender fits great!

Got some 10 gauge wire to connect from the + battery terminal to the fuse box (extended since I'm moving battery).

No injectors yet

I'm also looking for the alternator adjustment bolt and don't know what size it is (grrr).
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Old Mar 8, 2013 | 09:12 AM
  #122  
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Just for reference later...

I know I'll need these images later so here they are

Vacuum diagram:
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Installing the Distributor cam gear at TDC:
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Old Mar 8, 2013 | 09:31 AM
  #123  
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I am still at the beginning. I now know why mechanics charge so much to do this. everything is covered in gunk, so it seems like I will spend the majority of the time cleaning everything before putting it back. should have pictures up soon, but its not pretty. nowhere near as clean as the engines I have seen so far.
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Old Mar 8, 2013 | 09:48 AM
  #124  
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Hmm guess I haven't done that model year's vac diagram with color code yet, its close enough to the other late 80's one I don't think I'll bother. Just ignore the parts you can't locate

22re Vac diagram w/ color
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Old Mar 8, 2013 | 10:22 AM
  #125  
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nice pics....teehee
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Old Mar 8, 2013 | 10:39 AM
  #126  
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Originally Posted by Fish456
I am still at the beginning. I now know why mechanics charge so much to do this. everything is covered in gunk, so it seems like I will spend the majority of the time cleaning everything before putting it back. should have pictures up soon, but its not pretty. nowhere near as clean as the engines I have seen so far.
That is because no one wants to show off a dirty motor....unless they want to show it later after it's cleaned up!

Get:
- Wire brushes - lots (harbor freight)
- Plastic scrube brushes and old toothbrushes
- Orange degreaser material
- Old scotch brite pads/sponges
- Lots of rags
- Something a bit stronger like Krud Kutter
- Dish soap and warm water soaking does wonders too
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Old Mar 8, 2013 | 10:41 AM
  #127  
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Originally Posted by 92 TOY
nice pics....teehee
I steal from the best!

(for those who don't know, I was off a tooth last time I buttoned things up when I did my timing chain install a few years back....92 TOY's photos here helped me realize that and set things straight - amazing what a tooth off can do (as in not let your motor start!)
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Old Mar 8, 2013 | 10:42 AM
  #128  
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Originally Posted by Philbert
That is because no one wants to show off a dirty motor....unless they want to show it later after it's cleaned up!

Get:
- Wire brushes - lots (harbor freight)
- Plastic scrube brushes and old toothbrushes
- Orange degreaser material
- Old scotch brite pads/sponges
- Lots of rags
- Something a bit stronger like Krud Kutter
- Dish soap and warm water soaking does wonders too
I have most of this stuff already, so thats good. I like my truck, but these are the moments where you seriously consider if this is even worth doing.
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Old Mar 8, 2013 | 10:51 AM
  #129  
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Sounds like it's coming together! Cant wait for the VROOOOM video! Lol.

I did lots of clean up like mentioned, while it was apart... man was it worth all the hours of cleaning parts!

Like the progress on the AIR/BATTERY swap and sounds like u came up with a genius plan for the wiring routing (and the wiring over the bellhousing is interesting on the other)... Makes sense to get the air intake to the cool side... ur running a K&N fit to the 3" Supra AFM? Wut shorty tube?
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Old Mar 8, 2013 | 11:06 AM
  #130  
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Originally Posted by Philbert
I steal from the best!

(for those who don't know, I was off a tooth last time I buttoned things up when I did my timing chain install a few years back....92 TOY's photos here helped me realize that and set things straight - amazing what a tooth off can do (as in not let your motor start!)


awwww shucks. :blushes:
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Old Mar 8, 2013 | 11:13 AM
  #131  
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Haha..... :jerry:
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Old Mar 13, 2013 | 02:16 PM
  #132  
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Got my injectors back today!

Got all 4 back plus the CSI from Witchhunter today. They look great!

The test sheet also came with and from what I can tell, they were actually performing pretty well before the cleaning - can anyone confirm if I'm crazy on that notion? I read the FAQ on how to read the test sheet:

http://witchhunter.com/testresults.php


Here are the injectors:
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And the test sheet:
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I'm out of town through next weekend so I won't get to this until end of March
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Old Mar 17, 2013 | 01:32 PM
  #133  
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Originally Posted by Fish456
I am still at the beginning. I now know why mechanics charge so much to do this. everything is covered in gunk, so it seems like I will spend the majority of the time cleaning everything before putting it back. should have pictures up soon, but its not pretty. nowhere near as clean as the engines I have seen so far.
This is a little late, but what I like to do as opposed to most is pressure clean the engine down before even taking it apart. You can even try one of those steam pressure cleaners. Works out 80% of the grease pots before digging in. The rest would have to be brushed down with a wire brush, for those parts that can't really be scratched I would use a brass or plastic brush.
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Old Mar 17, 2013 | 01:38 PM
  #134  
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Hey Philbert,
I've been away from posting, but see that you have been busy with the HG. One little thing I do here down south is get the part sku and run by http://www.toyotapartszone.com and then head over to the local dealer and they actually started matching the price. This works great form me as I save on shipping and time, 1) don't have to pay the regular listed retail price and also the cost of shipping from http://www.toyotapartszone.com and 2) I can get it at the latest the next day. Now they all know me so even if its a special order they just put it through allowing me to pay and pick up at the same time. Helps out a great deal.
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Old Mar 17, 2013 | 03:11 PM
  #135  
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Originally Posted by junk4u
Hey Philbert,
I've been away from posting, but see that you have been busy with the HG. One little thing I do here down south is get the part sku and run by http://www.toyotapartszone.com and then head over to the local dealer and they actually started matching the price. This works great form me as I save on shipping and time, 1) don't have to pay the regular listed retail price and also the cost of shipping from http://www.toyotapartszone.com and 2) I can get it at the latest the next day. Now they all know me so even if its a special order they just put it through allowing me to pay and pick up at the same time. Helps out a great deal.
Thanks for the tip, albeit it's a little late for this project....I did two orders with them and probably spent about $18 on shipping total....ah well, now I know for next time.

I can't wait to get this thing running again. I am gone all this week but hope to get it on the road by April.

Still Need to:
- install injectors/fuel rail
- install upper intake manifold and senders/wiring
- solder/extend AFM wiring
- solder in GM wiring pigtail for alternator
- install GM alternator
- install header
- install Supra AFM

I think that's it.
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Old Mar 17, 2013 | 03:13 PM
  #136  
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just checking in man. may be doing mine again soon, think I have a problem. see my original thread.

the video of the diff breather in that other thread....that guy has some really good videos, check them out. i went to his page a few weeks ago and search toyota.
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Old Mar 17, 2013 | 03:56 PM
  #137  
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Thanks Jerry - sorry to hear you're having issues with your cooling system again - just read that last page of your thread. Looks like PumpkinYota has some good advice.

Now you have me worried....did you lube your head bolts (new) when installing? I didn't.....I put some oil around the bolt head where it meets the valve train, to lessen the resistance when torquing it down...but I kept the bolt threads and block holes DRY/clean when installing...should I have lubed those too???

Hope your issues are as simple as retorquing...that's what SuperBleeder did for his coolant leak, and what I tried (but it failed soon after)....
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Old Mar 18, 2013 | 01:55 AM
  #138  
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cleaned and lubed and torqued to spec. not sure what the reason was for the problem.
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Old Mar 18, 2013 | 07:10 AM
  #139  
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Shoot...so I was supposed to lube the head boot threads too??? (I didn't)

You have me worried now
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Old Mar 18, 2013 | 07:21 AM
  #140  
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Great thread, going to be undertaking the same thing and a full timing replacement while I'm at it once the finances are in order, the pictures are quite helpful and there's a plethora or info here. Thanks for the thread
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