Thanks Terry.
So you mean the green plug on the right in my photo, just beneath the two red vacuum hoses? Both are plugged in but both are loose and easily rotate/swivel by touch....must be bad. Need to research and see if repairable.

I used wire and have for setting timing...worked fine

Guess who got his truck running last night and has two thumbs?....This guy!!

Took some phone video and will post later today withffeedback and questions...but it LIVES!!!

 

Hi everyone - great news: It started last night!

I did a couple cranks with the coil unplugged, matched up the vacuum hoses, and fixed two wires from a sensor on the valve cover....they had literally just fallen apart where they met the plug , so I crimped/soldered two spade connectors, heat shrinked, and plugged into the sensor instead:







Problem solved!




I then hooked up the coil and cranked it a couple times. It fired up, though sputtered and died. Cranked it a third time, then worked the throttle a little and kept it running. The throttle cable or spring loaded lever on the TB are really sticky - maybe it was the hot tanking that made it that way - I need to get some oil or lithium grease on there (any advice?).

I idled it at 1500 and 2000 for ~5 minute increments for the cam break in - close to 20 minutes total. With the sticky throttle it was easy to set it at an RPM and just leave it....

Took the valve cover off to adjust the valves to .009 and 0.007 intake/exhaust, per ENGNBLDR. I noticed the oil on the valvetrain had a whitish tinge to it - I'm guessing this is due to the hot tanking of the valve cover, plus any "newness" of the cam/head/assembly lube - does this sound normal?



My feeler gauge does not have .007 and .009, so I used .008 and .010 (is this anything to worry about or do I need to get a REAL set of feelers and do this exactly)?

When I did valves, I made sure to come to TDC exactly and NOT pass the hashmark and revert back, to keep the cylinder pressure up, per Chef's advice - thanks!

After that I drained the oil and put in a new filter and 4.5 quarts.

Fired it up again and set timing to 5* BTDC jumping the T & E1 terminals, which drops the throttle (of course you guys know that). What seems strange to me is that the throttle seems really low, like 600 RPMS....really sounds like the engine is struggling to stay alive when idling, but it didn't die. I think I need to adjust the idle up a little? It's that metal screw on the TB (not the plastic one on the manifold), correct?

The engine sounds pretty loud, though I was in the garage with the hood off...it quiets down a lot in the cab - you'll see i the videos.

Also, there is some belt squeal when I blip the throttle, even a little...need to tighten them more.

I also need to:
- Mount AFM better
- Mount battery - got to find a tray....plywood is all I have right now LOL
- Fix or replace that sender unit that's causing the CEL
- Address sticky throttle
- Address squealing belts

HERE are the videos from startup/warm up:

I tried everything to embed these photobucket videos but can't seem to figure it out, sorry....


My first attempt at starting it up (sputtered and died the first two or three turns....then fired up):
http://s1354.photobucket.com/user/ph...b95d4.mp4.html


This is it running right after those failed attempts above (note it's not at operating temp yet):

http://s1354.photobucket.com/user/ph...1647f.mp4.html

Getting up to operating temp (using the new sender location ON THE INTAKE MANIFOLD - much better than waiting for the T stat to open with my top-hose-mount I used to run!):

http://s1354.photobucket.com/user/ph...b8bbf.mp4.html

Checking for leaks (the water on the fan shroud is from the radiator being open while it warmed up):

http://s1354.photobucket.com/user/ph...fa9ad.mp4.html

 

Hey Philbert. Great job documenting the rebuild. I don't have that kind of patience. I live in Pleasanton by the way and have seen your truck on 680 a few times. I know this sounds creepy but I always spot other 1st gens where ever I go. I have an 86' with the same head/cam combo from ENGNBLDR. I had the same low idle experience on fire up. I'm curious to know if your truck runs well at 5 degrees TDC. Mine seems to like 8 degrees much better with more power and better throttle response.

 

Thanks Spawn - and no worries, I also stalk other original 4Runners - there is a guy in a grey one with an OME lift I always used to see on Montague after I got off 680 and one day I was stopped at a light next to him in our RAV4 and rolled down my window to ask him about his rig we talked for like 3 minutes straight before teh light changed (he had the 3.4 swap though...).

Where in Pton do you live? We're near downtown.

Anyway....I have no idea yet since I just got this guy fired up last night for the first time and it's not street worthy yet (need to secure battery and intake first!).

I can play with timing and see - is it really dangerous to go more than 8* BTDC (that's the limit on the oil pump indicator....)? I've always done 5*, per FSM, and never messed with it when it was all stock.

I need to adjust idle too - it's that metal screw on the TB right? Guess I could look it up in the FSM but since you're reading.....

Did you have the same light colored oil when you first installed everything? May just be the solvent used in hot tanking.

And, do you or others following have input on the valve lash? I don't have a .007/.009 shim to use so are .008/.010 going to be OK or am I risking any damage?

Really looking forward to getting this guy on the road so I can break it in and then REALLY enjoy it! Heck, it's almost soft top season!!!

 

First time chiming in here. I could likely be missing some history on your build since I didn't read the whole thing, but just looking at your last photo (albeit a little dark) that appears to look like chocolate milk colored oil?

You should pull your dipstick and see what that oil looks like. If it's throughout the engine that's not good. If that is coolant mixed with your oil that isn't good news. When I did my rebuild my oil remained clear after break-in, probably because I used a clearish red assembly lube (clevite) rather than black colored molly.

I would flush that stuff out and hopefully it doesn't come back.

 

Thanks Grego - lots here to read

I had the intake and valve cover hot tanked and there was some residue I saw on some parts. I also used a dark grey assembly lube. I also have a brand new head from ENGNBLDR. The recommended procedure from them is to do the 15 minute warmup, vary RPMs from 1500-2000, then drain oil and replace filter and oil. I'll keep an eye on it. OIL that I drained was a little "opaque" but not the milkshake we're all used to seeing on blown HGs here.

Will keep you guys posted on the break in.

Need to focus on securing battery and intake and fixing that damn thermo time sensor if I can (they are REALLY expensive to replace....just looked today)

 

Which sensor, buddy? The one I mentioned behind the thermostat housing? Or, your talking about the coolant temp sensor and csi time switch?

I can't see the pic of the oil right now, ..... but I've always had clear. Last time I blew an oem hg on a cleanly machined head and block. Tore it down and new hg, .....10k miles later, it still runs fairly clear at 3000 intervals. Never figured out for sure what caused it, might have been a block cog on top.... I don't mention it to be negative, ..... just that it happens, and I am hoping for the best of possible outcomes in all this! I know it can be nerve racking on a first start and breaking in process... But you did a thorough job man... Just gotta let time tell.

As far as .008 and .010 go, it should be ok, just that 1 thousandth looser... but u can find sets with .007 and .009 in them, I found one at O'reilly's. My take would be to go tight on the. 008 & .010 feelers.... that'll be close or right on to 7 and 9, ya feel me? (No pun intended, hehe)

 

The malfunction code is for the ECT, on the right in the picture is the "correct" position. It's possible you swaped the wires or swaped the sensors. You won't need to remove them to inspect them, just need to check them with the Ohm meter cold and warm and check the wire colors. The colors I gave one-two posts ago should be correct for your 87, but you can check with the autozone wiring diagrams or in the back of your manual or by probing at the ECM and end of the sensor plug to ID which is the sensor/sender and which is the switch.

The plug you repaired. You can usually push a release on the connectors to remove these and replace the metal/spade. The VSV I am not sure but it may need specific polarity on a specific pin to operate. In some cases I can think of it would try to push the piston farther closed if these are reveresed.

The oil concerns me. I'm not on my usual computer so all my color sense is shot, but that doesn't look good. It's easy enough to test if it's the assembly lube if you have some of it left over and a little bit of motor oil. I doubt the dip tank residue is any issue, the last step is usually a rinse step so whould be just some water residue. Monitor the water/coolant levels very closely.

I'm maybe missing something else I ment to comment on but like I said not on my normal computer and navigating the web w/o a mouse is an excercise in rage management

 

thanks guys again for chiming in and for the advice.

I took a quick look at the oil one more time and when I took off the cap off, the baffle had some residue on it. I easily wiped away with a fingertip and it's clear oil theIre now...whew! I will try to get to those tests later but this weekend is my anniversary so I need to focus on priorities

 

Dipstick is clear oil too. Think it was hot tank residue.

 

Edited my last post....Grrrrrr, like 5 big errors using talk to text! Lil wiped out that morn too, fo sho! Haha...

Best to ya on all this and MORE IMPORTANTLY,.....HAPPY ANNIVERSARY!!! Congratz man, I would really love to find someone, get it right on the third try, lol. .. Just tough after being single for so long! hehehe.

Wondered if u got me on the "go tight on the 8 and 10 feelers." ?

Sounds like u were sharing last that ur pretty certain u have no milkshake forming......FHEWWWWW! lol

 

OK,

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Still happily married 7 years and 1 day later - whew!
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Still have not had a chance to test the senders per the FSM but plan to this week. I think I was wrong in thinking it was the "thermo time switch" - that's the one under the intake on the LEFT side as you face the motor. What the #4 CEL code is for is a faulty coolant temp sender - the one on the RIGHT side as you face the motor. This is also the one that is the loosest (the plastic connector is really loose and spins a bit when you barely twist it...).

Chef has both of these so I may pick one or both up from him depending on the tests.

While looking around just now, I found a Coolant temp sensor for only $17 - not bad! Looks like the same connector too:



Any reason NOT to go with this (1 year warranty and cheap...)? The thermo time switches look to be $150+ online so far...really hope it's not that.

Oh, and is clearing the CEL as simple as disconnecting the battery and touching the battery cables together to discharge the system?

Will report back soon.

 

I live in the Del Prado area near Valley and Hansen. There seems to be alot of Toyota stalkers around. I get alot of questions and thumbs up from guys around town. I think I can pickout a toyota guy without seeing his car now. Most of us are practical types.

I also think 8 degrees is the upper limit but I've heard that some guys set it around 7-8 after the new cam. I had to set it back to 5 to pass smog if that's an indicator. No discolored oil on my rig. I change the oil at 500m to look for metal debris and everything was good. I don't think .001 over on the valves is dangerous at all. It might rattle a bit more. You could set them a bit tight on your oversized feelers and get the same result. By the way I have the same LCE header as you so our setups are very similar. My runner is white/white with Trail Gear tube bumpers front and back. I hope everything works out for you and she runs clean.

 

Well,

I used some lithium grease on the throttle cable and lever (whatever the cable attaches to and opens/closes the throttle...) to loosen it up more - seemed to work.

Also took a closer look at the 2 senders under the TB (thermo temp and thermo time).

Looks like the thermo temp (drivers side, and the one that's giving me a #4 CEL code) is toast - it was hanging on by a thread and when I got the harness connector off, it came with it!!






I hooked up my multimeter to the passenger side one (thermo time - cold start sender) and it red "0" ohms when I hooked up to it. I have a cheapo radio shack multi meter with only one ohm setting (pretty sure it's K ohms), and it has an ohm adjuster wheel on the side. I adjusted it to "0" when I had both probes touching each other because, well, that's 0 ohms, right??

Chef happened to have both senders in hand, so I'm going to swap them out and see if that solves the problem. HUGE KUDOS, MARK!!!

Meanwhile, I still need to:
- Secure battery
- Secure AFM
- Tighten Belts
- Clean vacuum hoses
- Install hood

Really hope the sender does the trick on the CEL!

 

Oh and Spawn, sorry, meant to reply on my phone yesterday but had a glitch with pasting in IMG links and got frustrated!

You're right across the fairgrounds from me it looks like - and near the Hopyard, yum!

Thanks for weighing in on the timing and the valves - that's good to hear. Once I get it out on the road I'll play with timing. Not due for smog till September/October anyway.

I haven't seen your rig but will keep an eye out. I've been driving a light blue 80 Datsun 280ZX the past couple months while this guy's been under the knife

 

Funny, I had a black 1981 280zx with t-tops when I was in my late 20's. What a fun car to drive and back then it was a chick magnet. I had it all dialed with new suspension and a new motor when a lady t-boned me and broke the frame. Talk about instant depression.

 

Did someone say chick magnet???

[YOUTUBE] [/YOUTUBE]

Pretty sure mine is the only satin blue S130 around our area - never see them much and mine is a 2+2 hardtop which is really rare. Second owner, got it 5 years ago from a family friend who no longer drove it and acutally used to drive his two sons around in the small rear bucket seats (!). Likely going to offload it in the next year or so - the Yota takes up all my project time. Damn fun car - love the motor in it and wish it weren't so heavy.


Sorry to hear about yours...At least you have your 4Runner

 

Today was a great day - spent about 3 hours on the truck and got the following done:

- Replaced the Thermotime switch and thermo sensor (HUGE kudos to Chefyota4x4 for getting me these parts he had - this erased the CEL!).
- Tightened the alternator belt that was causing the squeal when throttle was blipped.
- Built a battery tray and secured battery on drivers side
- installed bracets for Supra AFM & filter that came with it (thanks Kiyobrown!)
- Installed new negative to body 10 gauge ground wire.
- Replaced hood
- Took it for a drive!!!



Here's the broken thermo sensor, and the newer one Mark sent me:


Here it is with the replacement thermotime switch, installed:


I built the battery tray with 4 1/4" bolts and fender washers. I used the original forward-most bolt hole from the airbox, then measured off of that for the other 3:


I lucked out at work and found some server rack drawer slider thingies in a scrap pile and thought "these would be great if they fit"....well, they fit perfect! I needed some coaxing from the 1/4" drill to make those channels wide enough but it was easy:



Bolted them down and then used the angle grinder to take the tops off ( also used an old head bolt, zip tied to the brackets, to create a more even surface for the battery to sit on):


Then I marked and drilled a hole in the fender for the OEM mounting hook:


The airbox came with some fabbed brackets that Jason (Kiyobrown) had made for his 4runner before his 3.4 swap - I marked up the areas with white out for pilot holes, then used self tapping screws to mount in the old battery tray area:


We took our dog to Shadowcliffs, and old quarry now filled with water, for some R&R today (she makes a cameo in the video below):





And after all that, I started it up and took for a ride for about 15 minutes around the neighborhood. Kept it under 3500 RPMs and took it easy but got up to about 40 MPH. Hard to really say if it feels more peppy since I'm not pushing it, but it feels good and responsive. I'll have more of an opinion while I drive it more.

I took a video below of it idling after warming up. You can really hear the hiss of the air filter, especially when I get close to it - is that normal for one of these cone filters?

Also, the idle seems really low. When I first started it, it took a couple tried and I had to gas it a little to keep it from dying. Once warm, starting it is no problem. When warm, the idle seems to settle around 500 RPMs which is low I'm pretty sure. I need to look into that with the FSM to adjust it.

The "lope" at idle is nice - I moved the camera to the tailpipe in the video and you can hear it. Really digging it so far and looking forward to getting it out on the road and reporting back.

Oh, and I parked it in the driveway after the ride, facing downhill (used to leak oil from SOMEWHERE) - no leaks after a few hours, except for from the front diff LOL...at least the motor seems to be finally dry.

Stay tuned - hope to have more good stuff (not bad!) to report soon....

Phil

VIDEO (I cna't for the life of me get photobucket videos to embed like youtube!):

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http://s1354.photobucket.com/user/ph...5b83e.mp4.html
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My pleasure buddy! and yes, those things hiss so bad that at times I could barely hear my engine... but, when you step on the throttle and get to where its opening wide up... They go ROARRRRRRRRR! Haha. .. Sorry, it's hard to describe sound. Hahahahaha.

Nice work all around! you're really going at quite the clip here! Woohoo, congratulations man

 

wahooooo!!!

yes. my truck hisssses too.

sorry buddy really gd busy lately.

congrats!