Parts to replace while rebuilding a 3.0?
#1
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Parts to replace while rebuilding a 3.0?
So stuff not related to the actual engine rebuild, what would you replace?
I have already replaced:
timing belt
water pump
idler
tensioner
belts and all hoses
So my short list is:
Knock sensor
knock sensor pigtail
fuel pressure regulator( I know its bad )
new or reconditioned fuel injectors
exhaust manifolds will be replaced with headers
What am I missing?
Thanks,
Evan
I have already replaced:
timing belt
water pump
idler
tensioner
belts and all hoses
So my short list is:
Knock sensor
knock sensor pigtail
fuel pressure regulator( I know its bad )
new or reconditioned fuel injectors
exhaust manifolds will be replaced with headers
What am I missing?
Thanks,
Evan
#3
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I'd replace the PCV AND the grommet that holds it. Look at the TVV between the evap canister and throttle body; many have broken nipples (and if yours isn't broken be very careful around it). Look frankly at all the rubber/plastic you can see; if you have a crack in part of the induction system, it's only going to get worse during a rebuild.
You'll need new o-rings and seals for each injector. I wouldn't (didn't) replace the injectors; they're pretty tough. They do get dirty though, so reconditioning would be a good idea.
The crush washers for the fuel lines are not usually in any gasket kit, but you may already have this covered.
I wouldn't (didn't) replace the oil pump, but others recommend it. I'm not convinced you can get it properly re-sealed without dropping the pan, and that's very difficult unless you remove the engine. But if you're really "rebuilding," the engine will be out, so consider it.
I wouldn't (didn't) replace the knock sensor itself; it's very tough. But I fear that if I say that you'll be the one guy who has one go bad. And they are pretty hard to get to. The pigtail, of course, is cheap and should always be replaced.
You'll need new o-rings and seals for each injector. I wouldn't (didn't) replace the injectors; they're pretty tough. They do get dirty though, so reconditioning would be a good idea.
The crush washers for the fuel lines are not usually in any gasket kit, but you may already have this covered.
I wouldn't (didn't) replace the oil pump, but others recommend it. I'm not convinced you can get it properly re-sealed without dropping the pan, and that's very difficult unless you remove the engine. But if you're really "rebuilding," the engine will be out, so consider it.
I wouldn't (didn't) replace the knock sensor itself; it's very tough. But I fear that if I say that you'll be the one guy who has one go bad. And they are pretty hard to get to. The pigtail, of course, is cheap and should always be replaced.
#4
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Thread Starter
Thanks Scope. Good recommendations. I figured I would replace the knock sensor because my truck always pinged a little. Not sure if it's the sensor, bad connection, or just carbon build up. I just want to rule it out.
#5
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Thread Starter
fuel pressure damper
Anyone think I should replace the Fuel Pressure Damper. The regulator is bad so that is getting replaced. Just curious on the longevity of the dampers.
I am mostly being lazy as I don't want to take the intake back off for any reason. I don't want to waste money unnecessarily either.
I am mostly being lazy as I don't want to take the intake back off for any reason. I don't want to waste money unnecessarily either.
#6
When I was rebuilding my engine, I tried to remove the fuel pressure damper to replace... it was solid.. so I left it.. it's working fine though, 227k miles... I'd say unless you have reason to believe it should be changed, leave it. Also, it's not TOO difficult to get back to the damper if you need it later.
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I wouldn't replace the damper unless it is currently leaking. While a fair number of us have had one go, I don't think it is a part with an actual limited lifetime. (I paid $139 for the damper and 4 crush-washers 2 years ago at my favorite dealer. RockAuto now has them for about $90.)
It's not real easy to get to, but I think what Gevo is hinting at is your own learning curve. Taking the plenum (and the valve covers, and the heads, and the timing belt ...) off the first time is always a chore. But once you un-stick the really bad fasteners, and you replace all the really bad gaskets, and break (and replace) the parts that were just waiting to break ... you start to get good at it. The second time you have to pop off the plenum (to get to the FPD, or whatever) it will seem really easy.
It's not real easy to get to, but I think what Gevo is hinting at is your own learning curve. Taking the plenum (and the valve covers, and the heads, and the timing belt ...) off the first time is always a chore. But once you un-stick the really bad fasteners, and you replace all the really bad gaskets, and break (and replace) the parts that were just waiting to break ... you start to get good at it. The second time you have to pop off the plenum (to get to the FPD, or whatever) it will seem really easy.
Last edited by scope103; 02-02-2015 at 11:38 AM.
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