all the screws on my PAIR reed valve fell off so it makes a lot of noise when the engine hasn't warmed up.

has anyone else had the screws fall off? does anyone know what size the screws are that hold it down are?

here's what the thing looks like, pic courtesy of someone on yota.. sorry I don't remember your name!

it's circled in red.

 

Did you ever find replacement screws? Mine is making this noise, click here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rxSdf_IZbow . Was that the same noise you were having?

 

Go to your friendly Ace Hardware and get 5mm machine screws. You only need about 5mm long, but you'll probably have to settle for 10; it doesn't matter as they go all the way through. Consider picking up some 5mm lock washers at the same time.

You might try allen-head bolts; unless you remove the PAIR valve it is tricky to get a screwdriver in there, and an allen wrench has the correct bend to fit. Those bolts are more expensive (0.17 v. 0.65), but you only need 4.

 

I checked mine this morning and all screws are still there but very loose. I tried to tighten them with my finger but it can only do so much. The noise sorta went away but I have to tighten the screws real well. I've have seen screw drivers with those types of bend found on the allen wrenches. Are the screws phillip or flat head?

 

Sorry; I lost three screws and just replaced them (I used #2 phillips head and a stubby screwdriver, but if I had to do it again I spring for the allen head bolts);

For you: just push hard with the tip of your finger, and then look at the mark on your finger! I'm sure you'll be able to tell flat from phillips from torx. (and I'm guessing #2 phillips).

 

mine makes the same noise. well, probably makes the same noise.



my mechanic said its not a big deal.

 

I bought one of those offset screw drivers. I lost one screw but the other three are still there with two of them loose. Man, its freaggin' tight in there! I have a stubby screw driver and that didn't even work but the offset screw driver worked like a charm! I was able to tighten two loose screws, the outer top and bottom ones. The top inner one is impossible to get to w/o removing that big hose blocking it. Thankfully, its not loose. I'm planning on putting locktite on the otherside where the other end of the bolts are. Is this a good idea?

 

".... I'm planning on putting locktite on the otherside where the other end of the bolts are. Is this a good idea?"

Uh, no. Locktite is "anerobic", meaning that it gets firm in the absence of oxygen (that is, when you put the fasteners together). You could put a drop of locktite on the table and it would stay "wet" for a week. Or, on the exposed end of a bolt.

You need to remove the screws, but on a drop of loctite, and then reassemble them. Good luck.

 

Mine lost its last 2 screws about 4 or 5 months ago and started making the noise.. It was annoying, and when I got it put back together it seemed to run better. It may have bee psychological. And yes, they are a PITA to get in with all the plumbing on that side of the intake manifold. I had luck with a stubby screwdriver and some swearing .

Andy

 

I'm gonna let the burn marks on my hand heal first. Perhaps I'll wait til the noise comes back when the screws come loose again. Then I'll put some locktite along the bolt threadings and screw them back in.

 

I have a 93 toy with 3vze v6 engine. It started to make a loud exhaust leak
sounding noise. I unplugged the vacuum line and it stopped. I figure my pair
valve is bad, does anyone have a good valve to sell???

 

checked my pair valve and found a couple screws had fallen out making the loud exhaust leak sounding noise. just plugged the vacuum line and disconnected for now. noise is gone, seems to run fine.

 

I am doing the same right now. I cannot even find a replacement valve available. I haven't checked the screws yet.

Are there any ill effects of having this disconnected from vacuum?

 

you'll be polluting more and you wont be able to pass smog unless they dont do visual/performance tests on the individual emissions components. You might burn out your cat faster.

 

That's no bueno.

I guess I'll try to get to those screws later today.

 

Thanks a ton for this info. I repaired mine today. 3 of 4 screws were gone. I used a #2 phillips bit in a 1/4 inch tiny rachet to get 3 of them. One of the top ones was so close to the hose coming out (which I was unable to move) that I had to cut the bit in half then use a open end wrench on it. My magnetic pickup tool paid for itself today!1 this is definitely a job that includes cursing and a beer in the middle to calm down.

I also put some split lock washers on there so I don't have to do this again!

Truck does seem to run smoother now that it is back together.

 

go figure.
the ecu is programmed to expect a certain amount of oxygen in the exhaust (most from the PAIR system) and if it's not getting what it expects it will muck with the air-fuel ratio.

 

good point. Didnt think of that.

 

Would this problem cause a severe lack of power going up hills? My rpm's stay up high but my speed just keeps on dropping while climbing up hills. This is without a load other then my fat ass and the weight of the vehicle. I am not towing.