OverHeating Problem Solution For 3.0L
#1
OverHeating Problem Solution For 3.0L
Hello Guys,
I Have A 1990 4runner 3.0L 4x4, i been having trouble with my car overheating,
I have done a Head work 7 month ago and here comes the nightmare,
I have put a new water pump,cap, ect..
i live in AZ very hot 100-112 a day, and running with no A/C tell me about it,
well let's go straight to the point,this is At your own risk
this is a relocate thermostat Mod..
plz guys im just trying to help... dont be mad if im doing it wrong,
im not good at this step by step but hope the pic can explain,
i just found my solution on my suv i didnt take pics just the finish part.
thing that you need
2 water outlet part # 814999 from autozone cost 6.99 each
2 bolts and nuts i lost the part # but you'll can find it.. sorry
a thermostat im using the a 180 from the 4runner try to find the on that fits on the water outlet...
and some tight clamps
okay so lets do this
First remove the stock thermostat from the waterpump your going to need it to relocate it
then cut the bottom Metal plate from the Thermostat ( this Is just the demo not the one im using )
once that done place it on the water outlets seal and tight...
when putting it on make sure that the thermostat facing the right way
thermostat should be facing like the pic
once that done with every thing it should look almost like this
here the catch this prevent from hot water flowing to the radiator and cooling the water inside the radiator faster.
so once the thermostat open it will push the cooler water from the radiator to the block ...
i when for the longest test drive and the needle stay half way but work for me i tested with the A/C on and i Enjoyed it ...
im still eyeballing the temp to see if it gets to over heat but its half way im think to put a 192,
but the reason i dont want to is because the thermostat may take longer to open
i try and try doing all the test and everything good..
I Have A 1990 4runner 3.0L 4x4, i been having trouble with my car overheating,
I have done a Head work 7 month ago and here comes the nightmare,
I have put a new water pump,cap, ect..
i live in AZ very hot 100-112 a day, and running with no A/C tell me about it,
well let's go straight to the point,this is At your own risk
this is a relocate thermostat Mod..
plz guys im just trying to help... dont be mad if im doing it wrong,
im not good at this step by step but hope the pic can explain,
i just found my solution on my suv i didnt take pics just the finish part.
thing that you need
2 water outlet part # 814999 from autozone cost 6.99 each
2 bolts and nuts i lost the part # but you'll can find it.. sorry
a thermostat im using the a 180 from the 4runner try to find the on that fits on the water outlet...
and some tight clamps
okay so lets do this
First remove the stock thermostat from the waterpump your going to need it to relocate it
then cut the bottom Metal plate from the Thermostat ( this Is just the demo not the one im using )
once that done place it on the water outlets seal and tight...
when putting it on make sure that the thermostat facing the right way
thermostat should be facing like the pic
once that done with every thing it should look almost like this
here the catch this prevent from hot water flowing to the radiator and cooling the water inside the radiator faster.
so once the thermostat open it will push the cooler water from the radiator to the block ...
i when for the longest test drive and the needle stay half way but work for me i tested with the A/C on and i Enjoyed it ...
im still eyeballing the temp to see if it gets to over heat but its half way im think to put a 192,
but the reason i dont want to is because the thermostat may take longer to open
i try and try doing all the test and everything good..
Last edited by 4rana; 07-27-2012 at 12:43 PM. Reason: step by step
#4
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Did you just splice another thermostat into the Return line? Does that actually help, or does it keep cooled water from leaving the radiator?
Is your power steering belt inside-out (teeth side of belt out)?
Inquiring minds want to know!
Is your power steering belt inside-out (teeth side of belt out)?
Inquiring minds want to know!
#5
Registered User
#6
wow lol sorry guys their a lot more to this i guess i lost some more info from other task i had ima redo so it can be way better
does anyone know how can i edit this post ??? i can't edit
does anyone know how can i edit this post ??? i can't edit
Last edited by 4rana; 07-27-2012 at 12:09 PM.
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#10
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I kind of get the concept I guess, But once the thermo opens (the extra one you installed) it is just like having nothing there but a small blockage, until the motor cools again and the thermo closes, sooooo you just kind of clogged up the return line and have minimized flow.
That and or I am another conflubbered individual....
That and or I am another conflubbered individual....
#13
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I don't understand why you installed the thermostat backwards.
I could see how MOVING the thermostat from the lower rad hose (stock) location where it regulates the amount of cold water entering would help.
If you had it oriented correctly, and NO thermostat down below, it should open up faster as the block dumps hot coolant all over it very quickly. The downside would be... you'd probably always be running cool (in normal, temperate environments, not hot deserts) as the rad outlet would always be delivering the max flow of colder fluid.
I don't know about you guys, but I have a hard time believing that our water pumps can move the coolant TOO fast through the radiator before it can cool off. What the OP has done is impede coolant flow, nothing more. If this kind of "mod" HELPS your cooling system... it's time to check the thermostat function, fan clutch, and radiator.
*EDIT* I re-read the original post... missed that you did in fact remove the stock-located thermostat. My apologies for overlooking that bit. That's why your truck isn't overheating anymore. I'd still turn your thermostat around the right way though. I think you'll find on days when it's not super hot, your truck runs cooler than it should. Your mileage may decrease in those instances.
I could see how MOVING the thermostat from the lower rad hose (stock) location where it regulates the amount of cold water entering would help.
If you had it oriented correctly, and NO thermostat down below, it should open up faster as the block dumps hot coolant all over it very quickly. The downside would be... you'd probably always be running cool (in normal, temperate environments, not hot deserts) as the rad outlet would always be delivering the max flow of colder fluid.
I don't know about you guys, but I have a hard time believing that our water pumps can move the coolant TOO fast through the radiator before it can cool off. What the OP has done is impede coolant flow, nothing more. If this kind of "mod" HELPS your cooling system... it's time to check the thermostat function, fan clutch, and radiator.
*EDIT* I re-read the original post... missed that you did in fact remove the stock-located thermostat. My apologies for overlooking that bit. That's why your truck isn't overheating anymore. I'd still turn your thermostat around the right way though. I think you'll find on days when it's not super hot, your truck runs cooler than it should. Your mileage may decrease in those instances.
Last edited by bmcghie; 07-27-2012 at 04:50 PM.
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