The crappy thing about that is the fact that most aftermarket manufacturers now days only make the plastic aluminum one. And when a manufacturer does make a copper/brass one you have to pay more for it and the quality still just isn't there anymore. I've seen some good prices online for c/b ones,but they still don't look like that good of quality to me when they come into the shop in 2 years or less with seam leaks,sidebrackets coming loose,outer rows of tubes bulging/fins separating etc. We get them through CSF and Performance Radiator. I don't know what one will run you online or at a rad shop,but if the rad shop was like us, we would more than likely install the brass fitting for free if you bought the rad from us. If not it would be whatever our minimum repair cost is. I usually don't know all the costs because I'm the solder monkey in the back doing all the work,and my boss swings different deals for people depending on whether you're a dick to her or not

 

You could also put the temp sensor in the rad hose (I'd use the lower return hose).

Something like this would work only I'd use the lower hose :

It's screwed into a section of steel pipe 1.5" diameter, drilled, tapped to 1/4" NPT, and sealed with water pump RTV. If your sensor only has one wire you will need to run a ground wire to the pipe/sensor bung somehow:

 

ok how much for a csf with the bung installed shipped to 95621

 

Ok I am confused but to me those pics look like it's in the upper hose or are they not your picks?

 

Th instructions for my sensor were to install near the top hose.
I tried to buy DC because of the positive things that I heard on this site and because at the time the price was less than $100.00. It looks like demand has affected the price. I feel that as long as a merchant uses Paypal that my transaction will be delt with fairly, and I did get my money back.

 

Ok I just looked up the instructions for my flex a light controller and they say to "install the temp sensor near the inlet hose."
That is the top hose. Sorry for the confusion on my part.

Here is a link to the instructions:
http://www.flex-a-lite.com/auto/31165-99943.pdf

 

Kinda skimming through. But figured i would ask...Obviously your in need of a new radiator and the fan and clutch due to it being messed up. And you seem to have had other misfortunes... But, I was wondering if you are replacing your water pump? Usually what your are describing will eat a water pump up. I have seen them lock up on these yota's and go bad from wobbly fan and/or bad fan clutch...

Just throwing it out there.

 

yea with the rebuild I am doing new everything that is a wear item, and thanks for the concern. I am to the point wondering how much I will have to fix before I run out of money and time

 

I will talk to my boss tomorrow. Do you want me to check on bundling the rad/bung soldered in and the spal fan harness kit? What temp fan relay switch would you want? We have them where the fan comes on at 195* or 185*. I can try to get you a package deal with the relay/harness kit,or just the rad with the bung installed. We don't really do this over the internet thing so bear with us if you're in a hurry and I'll try to get you a price tomorrow.

 

not in a huge hurry and i hope we can make a deal

 

Make sure that your new controller/relay is set up to operate with your AC .

 

I don't have AC in my truck.

 

PM sent Citrus.

 

Pick up a new rad today....$65 3core all metal. Order the wiring tomorrow

 

New or used? That is ridiculously cheap.

 

used 2 months old....buddy at a shop was scrapping some parts and found it. The guy bought it had it install and got. rearended a month later. Total the truck and the shop bought it for 1000 bucks to part out. There's no shroud though

 

Ok I feel like a tard for asking this but I found the fan I had for my e-fan won't work. With that I decided to run the villager fan and I am having a hard time reading wiring diagrams and I am not really good at wiring. So my question is what do I need to buy to run the fan on low with the engine is running and the high on this controller http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-890016/ wired to run with the engine off; then both to a on/off switch. Also do I need to upgrade the relay or anything included with the kit? Can so one give me a dumbie guide on how to wire it?