I haven't read it all yet, but this sounds like a good idea:

Quote:

Using a multi-meter, check the system for electrolysis. Turn the dial on the meter to DC volts, touch the negative lead to the negative battery post and dip the positive lead into the coolant at the filler neck. Take care not to touch the bottom of the tank or the sides of the filler neck. Any reading over .01 volts indicates excessive voltage in the system. Check the system with the engine off and then again when starting and running the engine. Many electrolysis failures are caused by poor starter grounds, so it is important to turn the engine over at least once during this test.

One of my first college chemistry labs was about electrolysis. We learned that pure water doesn't carry current, its the ions in water that carry the current. Use distilled water (even for flushing) and you shouldn't have any problem with electrolysis. BTW don't trust the dealer, after my headgasket replacement I ask if they used distilled water when they refilled the coolant (this was the Toyota dealer in Wichita Falls Tx) they said no, they just use tap water. I had to reflush the system with distilled water on my own.

 

No worries there, Dale. I don't go to the dealer for maintenance or repairs.....just to lose an arm or leg when I need a part. What the hell, eh? I have plenty to spare.

Last time you and I'd talked about coolants/flushing you'd mentioned about the distilled water. So, I've been diligent about using it....particularly since I just rebuilt the 22re. FRESH start!!!! I'm going to have find the little explanation you gave how you flushed with it, though. I'm converting to propylene glycol once I have the new radiator in, so I want to make sure I've nothing but pure water leftover from flushing.

 

Yeah I think that was the last time I ever had a dealer work on my truck, of course the HG campain was free so I couldn't complain too much hehe.

I say flush, but really I just do a few drain and refill cycles using distilled water. Just be sure to run it up to temp so the t-stat opens good and have the heater on full blast so the heater core gets flushed too. Distilled water is only about $1/gal so $5-$10 worth should get you fairly clean.

 

Those are some good links you posted, this one really did a good job of expaining the radiator row myth.

Yeah, water wetter is good stuff unless you're running waterless coolant.

 

Glad you liked them. I spent some two hours or so reading a bunch of articles on this whole cooling matter. Aluminum is stronger!

So, I got a new plastic/alum rad today from O'Reilly. Couldn't justify shelling out another $30 just for the all alum one on ebay. F'n great deal, though. Anyway, from everything I've read and the answers I got from different parts stores, there's not very many warranty claims on them at all, and the plastic seems to last quite a long time if taken care of properly. Besides, if the rad I bought ever does crack or break, I get a new one just like that. Can't hardly beat it...

I'm still deciding on the WW, though. Still need some facts and not just marketing claims. For now, I'm just going to fill it with propylene and distilled water.....50/50, of course. If I'm sure I have no leaks after a few hundred miles, I'll probably give it a try.

 

Looks like I'll be replacing my radiator soon as well.

I have a question, though. What are those two littler hose nipples sticking out of the bottom? I read that those were for cooling an automatic transmission. I have a manual. Do those come pre-capped off? Because when I did my head, I removed the radiator and replaced all the hoses, and I never noticed any caps or hoses on those lower two stems. What are they?

 

You read right.


They may have a little plastic cap on them but its a good idea too run a hose from one to the other and hose clamp it in place. Reason is if the ATF cooler inside the rad ever ruptures all your coolant won't leak out. I've seen 3 or 4 guys now that have had the cooler rupture.

 

I tried something similar. I used a small hose to "cap" it off. The hose had a screw inside that fit nice and tight. I even put a hose clamp on the base of each one. Thing is, even with the hose clamp tight, and the hose being tight around the stem, it still dripped coolant. I ended up going to wal-mart and getting some silicone sealant from the plumbing section and put gobs of it around the base and stopped the leak. Works fine now.

 

I've got a 3.0, and I bought one off ebay....in the $130 range. It's a side draft and like 3 or so inches thick and it came with solid mounting flanges top and bottom so I drilled my own bolt holes in the frame to mount it. Easy as pie.

It's definitely bigger...will not work with stock fan and clutch. I robbed a fan and clutch off an old dead 22r and bolted it on. The clutch is worn out, and the fan will spin freely. So basically it doesn't rob any power from the engine to turn it, but it will spin just enough to have a small amount of air movement when still. I've done a little wheeling since then, with no problems. That radiator would probably work fine if you had no fan and just sat there and blew on it. I know it has survived many trips through the krystal drive-through at 3:00am....anyone who has had the pleasure knows that can easily be a 20 min ordeal. But man, sometimes there ain't nothin better....mmmm (homer simpson voice) cheese krystals.....

Anyway, metal flex hoses from ebay also to fit. Inlet and outlet are the same area, but just different enough that stock hoses won't work. I'm sure the metal hoses add 1-2 horsepower apiece

To help in searching on ebay, look for ones for Ford....about the only ones with the same inlet/outlet location. Measure your width. I can't remember, but I think you need to stay under 24", and 22" is prob better. About any radiator that width will be short enough (17" or so? I can't remember).

 

Speaking with the desert in mind, it seems that in most cases the factory radiator with a good fan shroud & engine-driven fan is the most reliable setup so far for me.

This has held true on an AMC 304 v-8, 258-6 motors in my Heeps, and on 2 22re yotas so far. The Jeeps saw rocks with air temps in the low 100's...

My 'yotas have pulled numerous trailers back & forth to Lee's Ferry & Lake Mead, some pretty steep hills around here, and I have not had an overheating issue, even cugging uphill at 40-45 with my blinkers on...

 

i just replaced the one in my 83 along with everything else in cooling system and it still overheats...tried electric fans 2. I ended up using a rad out of a 92 a litter taller and it looked a little thicker not sure though. the only real down side is the rad leans out from the core support more then normal...no more fan shroud