Thinking about switching crankcase to synthetic Mobil 1 as it is readily available. Curious as to recommendations on weight 10-40 or 5-30. Vehicle daily driver, highway and city use, no offroad. Have no oil consumption or leaks now. Using all synthetics in other fluids, except brakes for awhile now with no problems. Any suggestions on weight?

 

I've been using Mobil 1 10W30. It seems thin enough to me, but I'm not in an extremely cold area either.

 

I run valvoline VR1 myself. I've never heard bad things about it, but if anyone has had a bad experience with it I would like to hear it. It doesn't get very cold here, and my engines are pretty high mileage and I beat the piss out of them, so I run straight 50 weight in them. Here is a graph that might help:


I suppose the question between 10-40 and 5-30 has to do with the mileage and temperatures you put it through. I'm no expert though. I snagged that picture from http://www.aa1car.com/library/oil_viscosity.htm which has a lot of useful information.

 

ive been using 10w30 in all my trucks too seems to be a good all around oil

 

on my 22re i run Mobil 1 10w-30 in the summer, and 5w-30 in the winter. the 10w-30 doesen't seem to have any viscosity issues until you get down in the low 20's.

 

I was running 20w-50 but it was sucking about 2mpg out of me. Switched to 10w-40 and gained em back. Coldest its been here in a long time (this past winter it actually froze over) here in San Antonio.

 

5W-30 Mobil 1 here in northern IL. It was about 10 degrees today lol.

Rob

 

You might consume mobil 1. Also, now that mobil 1 is no longer a full synthetic (yes, it's proven to no longer be a full synthetic base), I'd suggest using something like Castrol GTX or something. Really, if you change your oil every 3k-4k miles and use a good filter, spending the extra on synthetic is unnecessary.

 

I've always said the same thing. I feel it's more piece of mind than anything. I always run Mobil 1 0W-40 in my GTO, and have run it in my Yota truck since that is what the previous owner said he did. When I took apart the engine to do my hg replacement a month or so ago, the engine looked brand new inside even though it's out of an '86, so I'm going to stick with what I've been doing.

Rob

 

Just to be a PITA: there's really only one full synthetic to use if you're serious about extra protection, and extra miles. It isn't cheap though, $9.95 per quart, or $118.20 for 12 quarts. It's worth it IMO for the peace of mind.







Pictures courtesy of Amsoil's website.

 

I did the same thing with my turbo 350z. Ran mobil 1 for 3k miles and changed it. Really, mobil 1 doesn't become effective as a synthetic until 5k miles and beyond, where the viscosity of dino oils breaks down.

With this beast, I ran that quaker state torque syn for trucks. Seemed to run pretty smooth, but after losing 3 quarts in the past month I'm gonna go back to a good dino oil until i figure out where my leak is HAHA

btw, you can get amsoil for less than $9/quart. And I'd use something like Motul if you want the best oil. Beats amsoil hands down. Also Royal Purple's race syn is better. Their normal syn really thins out, but their race stuff is top notch.

 

I'm in MA and it's been in the twenties and teens lately. I'm running castrol 10w40 on my 95 3.0 and on the first cold start of the day I can hear the valves tap for 1 or 2 seconds. Will the 10w-40 hurt it and should I switch to something lighter? I was running 5w30 and I noticed that my oil pressure was low at idle and I switched to 10w-40 and it raised the pressure. I guess I just want to know if the cold start tap will hurt my engine in the long term.

 

run 0w30 in winter. it acts like a 0 weight when cold so you get instant lubrication everywhere, but acts like a 30 weight or better when warm. using thick oil when cold is bad!

 

Yea , I noticed that I was getting better gas mileage with the 5w-30 also.

 

i've read something about 10w40 just being 10w30 with parafin wax added to it



i use 10w30 regular valvoline oil. i see all the mechanics use it so i figure i can trust them. i have heard bad things about penzoil before.
i also use lucas oil as an additive. i think this must thicken the oil up quite a bit. i dont know how much in numerical terms. but it seems to make the engine run much smoother and quieter.

 

Yeah, I like Valvoline , use it in my show mobile after 20 years 100K, tore down and overhauled. Clean as a pin inside. I would use it in 4Runner, but previous owner used Castrol and didn't want to make the Toyo mad or nothing by switching.


Great info everyone. Was suprised with the interest and answers. This helped me remember a few things I forgot about oil. Just changed oil today and used dino this time, gives me more time to make up my mind.

 

pennzoil platinum is actualy one of the better synthetics you can buy.

If you want the engine to run quieter, just run a thicker oi, don't bother with the lucas additive just for that reason.

 

i've also heard bad things about penzoil. I've found that mobil 1 oxidizes way slower than the dino valvoline i was running before. I am going to switch over to amsoil in the spring, but my next change in a week or two (when it gets back up into the 30's) will be with mobil 1 5w-30.

I personally wouldn't use royal purple in a street engine because they use moly in it which quickly adds to valve ware, and filter clogging. our valves are loud enough on the 22re without adding extra ware thanks.

There are plenty of tests available showing amsoil to be superior to a number of other oils (like this one)

 

check out bob is the oil guy for the best oil info

 

i put 10W-30 in mine and its still running amazingly (267,000 miles)