YFZsandrider

My 22RE now has 3500 miles on a complete rebuild. I'd like to know what oil would be best to run for the life of the motor?

I have been running Rotella 15w 40 for the break-in, and now what should I be switching over to?

I don't mind paying extra for sythetic, but is it really worth it?

Should I run a non snthetic for a while first?

Also, I live in Washington state, temperatures are rarely below 30 degrees in the winter.

pruney81

Given that a 22re will run 300K miles on 10W30 Dino oil, it's all a matter of personal preference on what kind of oil you run now. but I'm sure this thread will start some kind of debate.

camo31_10.50

yes run dino oil until about 10K miles, then after that run whatever you want...

you could make the FULL switch to synthetics...motor, tranny, t-case, both diffs..i've heard of an increase in fuel mileage of about 1-2mpgs

Marc

...x2

YFZsandrider

So, I am trying to change my oil pretty frequently for the first few thousand miles... I have 3500 on it right now, how long should I continue using the Rotella 15w 40... and when I change to a 10w 30 conventional oil, will I notice any difference in how it runs?

Thanks guys!

pruney81

I'm not an expert but I would think you could switch to 10W30 Dino now and be fine. Just change it every 3K miles. I'm a fan of the Toyota filters too.

Marc

You can change now.

No, you won't notice a difference on how it runs.

Why would there be a difference? It's just oil. It's for lubricating.

rangerruck

synth oil is allways good, but all, THAT IS ALL, oil has some level of synth in it allready. If you wanna, do a half synth thing first, for 2 or 3 oil changes, to see if you spring any leaks anywhere; if not, then sure- take the plunge and go to a full synth. For regular oil, Valvoline and Kendall has superior wear characteristics.
Also you can check Bob'soilpages....

sb5walker

The main benefits of synthetic are extended viscosity, especially in very cold environments, resistance to viscosity breakdown (which translates into longer oil change intervals), and fewer deposits.

Since you rarely get below 30 F, the first benefit is not needed.

The second benefit is a matter of convenience and economics: you pay more for syn, but change it less often, so just balance the price difference with the frequency of purchase. Convenience factors in too. Average quality conventional oils should be changed every 3-4k miles. Excellent quality conventional oils, like Castrol GTX or Valvoline MaxLife can make it 4-5k miles. Group III synthetics (not "true" synthetics - they are derived from petroleum base stocks, but offer many of the benefits of the "true" synthetics at a lower price) can make it 5-7k miles. Valvoline Synpower, Pennzoil Platinum and Castrol Syntec are very good group IIIs. True synthetics like Group IV PAO-based Amsoil and Group V Ester-based Red Line can make it probably 8-10k miles, but used oil should be sent for analysis to verify that it is holding up - see the bobistheoilguy forum.

The third benefit - fewer deposits - is a nice benefit for the longevity of the motor. There's a significant difference between average conventional and excellent conventional, very little difference in deposits between excellent conventional and group III syns, and a very significant difference between group IIIs and true group IV or V syns. Red Line oil in particular will do an amazing job at cleaning up a sludgey motor.

Mobil 1 used to be an excellent PAO synthetic - they changed to group III without telling anybody, and their oils now shear (break down) almost as bad as conventional mineral oils, so I dislike the Mobil 1 oils very much - I think they're way overpriced. Castrol Edge is mostly group III, possibly with some PAO mixed in; it performs well but all Edge weights are all very thin for their grades, and that product is also overpriced.

Avoid Quaker State like the plague - terrible breakdown problems - the 10W-30 will turn into a 10W-20 in as little as 2000 miles. Shell conventional is pretty poor, too, and Chevron is not great either, nor is conventional Pennzoil. Stick with the Valvoline or GTX if using conventional.

I've always used Syntec, had excellent luck with it - when I changed the head gaskets at 218k miles the original cross-hatching was still visible in the cyl walls, nice and even. Now at 282k miles, I still use less than a quart every 5k miles - how excellent is that! So I recommend the group III syns very much - had real good luck with them and I think they are the bargains of the engine oil market. Penn Platinum and Valvoline Synpower are as good as or better than the Syntec. But if you're willing to change the oil more often, conventional Valvoline or Castrol GTX will protect your motor just as well.

For filters, there are two good ones. The Toyota 90915-YZZD3, which is a bit taller than the stubby YZZD1 that the dealer will try to give you offers more filtering media area and longer service life at the same price. Another great choice is the Purolator PureONE PL20195. It has the best filtering efficiency (traps more and smaller particles) of any filter I'm aware of, and it also has really excellent flow. This thread has just about all you'd want to know about filters:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...filter-190242/

iamsuperbleeder

^^^
geez, a whole article lol, good info though


I think I swapped over to a lighter oil too soon just pass about 6k, and going through 2.5 quarts between oil changes with 10w30. I've went back to 15w40 now, so we'll see how that pans out...

abecedarian

I'm pushing 248K, per the odo, and have had the truck since 216K... I don't lose a quart between oil changes, which are spaced at around 6000 miles. Matter of factly, the only times I've needed more than a quart of oil between changes has been when using synth 'cause it's been leaking out on the ground. I usually don't even lose 1/4 quart over 6000 miles.

fireman1559

i ran royal purple 10w30 in the summer with lucas oil stabil with a KN oil filter and from what i have read the KN has one of the smallest micron filtering out there unless you go to a race filter but it wouldnt fit and my truck had 260,000+ and was running strong. in my ford i have now it also has a 3.0 v6 and i run motorcraft 10w30 with lucas stabil with a KN oil filter and its going on 4,000 miles and i havent needed to add oil yet and it still looks good. but cant really compare a motor with 56,000 miles to 260,000 miles. i used to run mobil1 but wasnt to impressed with it hence why i switched over to royal purple i canged it every 3,000 miles maybe a bit less and it was still good. so my vote is to the royal purple with a KN filter with a v6 you dont really need to look at burst strength but more at the filter and how small of microns it traps and if it has a anti drain back valve to keep from dry starting

aa1911

iTrader: (1)

lucas oil treatment rocks, buy the gallon jugs of it ($30); it is in every single oil resevoir in both my yotas, it's a great additive for engine and drivetrain alike; it's good 'n sticky!

swaysidelife

run some break in oil or a oil additive that has a high zddp content it helps with breaking in the motor. the red bottle of oil treatment is good and cheap, lucas,redline,royal purple also make good engine break in oil.

swaysidelife

and one more thing on you oil cap it probably says 10-30w "sl" or "sj" thats the zddp content. if you look on the back of a new bottle of oil it says "sm" which is lower in the zddp content. royal purple is still "sl" redline is still good. racing oil doesnt have too meet the gov. level of additives one of the highest zddp oil is Valvoline vr1 racing oil. doesnt matter as much for newer cars but for older cars like american muscle and cars and trucks with flat tapped cams it makes a big difference.

AzStorm

http://www.neosyntheticoil.com/

Goes in my race bike,street bike,Toyota truck,daughters truck,and wifeys car.

Ive used it for over 10 years no complaints.

swaysidelife

that looks like good stuff.

aa1911

iTrader: (1)

penn racing oil has a very high zinc/phosphorus content which protects the engine; just be sure to replace your O2 sensors about every 50-75k miles, it eats those things up. Cheap price to pay for engine protection/performance though...