oem steering stabilizer won't come off...
#1
oem steering stabilizer won't come off...
i decided to upgrade from the stock steering stabilizer and while one end came off easily, the other end just won't pull off. any tips for removing it? somebody recommended a pickle fork to pull it out, would this be the simplest way?
thanks.
thanks.
#2
Registered User
yeah you need a special tool in order to do it. but i have never done it, so i cant help you much.... id suggest getting a repair guide... about 20 bucks at autozone
#3
Registered User
No special tools needed. Did mine with a set of everyday hand tools (sockets, wrenches, needle-nose pliers). I'm not sure which end your hung up on. I'm kinda foggy about how its all setup seeing as I'm forgetfull and it was a while ago that I did it, but I'm thinking one end has a nut with a cotter pin and does the other end have a ball-joint kinda setup? I got the Heckethorne stabilizer from Rough Country, and it's just a straight-forward bolt-on assembly. You can ditch the cotter pin once you get it out, so do whatever it takes on that end. Let me know what your hung up on and I may be able to 'post' you through it.
#4
Thanks, it's pretty straightforward. I am stuck on the side with the cotter pin. No matter what I do, the bolt is not coming out of the tie rod. The FSM states that I should use an SST, sorta look like a puller instrument. I'll just run to the store tomorrow morning to see what I could find for cheap. I already tried prying, hammering and punching it. It hasn't budged. I think it's the original one with over 200k miles, so i was expecting it to be tough, but not like this.
side story, i just pulled out my pcv vlave. what a nightmare that was. the rubber grommet was some new type of material that i could try to patent it. I had to break the grommet into 4 pieces, then use a vice grip, scewdriver and hammer to knock it out. Worst part was that the grommet fused itself to the inside ring of the valve cover, so it took a little coaxing to get it out. thankfully the pieces didn't fall into the valve cover.
it's just my second week owning the 4runner, so it's nice to just get down and dirty sometimes, even though it's mostly basic maintenance stuff. i am getting a downey header next tuesday, so that'll be fun. i just can't believe how much easier it is to buy parts for the 4runner compared to my m5.
side story, i just pulled out my pcv vlave. what a nightmare that was. the rubber grommet was some new type of material that i could try to patent it. I had to break the grommet into 4 pieces, then use a vice grip, scewdriver and hammer to knock it out. Worst part was that the grommet fused itself to the inside ring of the valve cover, so it took a little coaxing to get it out. thankfully the pieces didn't fall into the valve cover.
it's just my second week owning the 4runner, so it's nice to just get down and dirty sometimes, even though it's mostly basic maintenance stuff. i am getting a downey header next tuesday, so that'll be fun. i just can't believe how much easier it is to buy parts for the 4runner compared to my m5.
Last edited by 2km5; 09-12-2007 at 11:31 PM.
#7
Registered User
You have to use a pickle fork or a tie rod puller. These don't just come out unless they were loose or worn out. I had to beat the hell out of my stocker with a pickle fork and a 3lb sledge to break it.
It's just like a tie rod or ball joint shaft...
It's just like a tie rod or ball joint shaft...
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#9
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Join Date: May 2007
Location: used to be so. cal. now Indy
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when i did my steering damper, the oem was so stuck, even BF*H failed. i decided enough is enough. put it back and drove to a shop. they had to bring out some scary stuff to break it lose.
here is what they used:
Ball Joint and Tie Rod Separator
here is what they used:
Ball Joint and Tie Rod Separator
#11
thanks for the tips; i'll stop by autozone on the way home to see what i could use. i just read that they have a free loan a tool program; just leave a deposit and you can rent what tools they have for free.
#13
Oh Yeah, felt a little funny afterwards too. I borrowed a tie rod puller from Autozone and bought a picke fork for 9 bucks; i'm pretty sure i can get it completed now. 4crawler, thanks for the torch idea; i didn't have a chance to go get one, so i'm going to try the caveman approach before i use any fire.
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#15
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I have had good luck with a propane torch to heat up the stud:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...ringStabilizer
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...ringStabilizer
#16
I tried all of the treatments listed above--some of them several times when I had the same problem. None worked. What I had to do was use a hacksaw to cut off both ends of the bolt so it was flush with the tie rod. Then I used a small drill bit to drill through the center of the remaining bolt, and kept using larger and larger bits until I had drilled out most of the center of the bolt. Then I used a punch and tapped it right out!
Hope one of the treatments works for you. If not try what I did--it takes a while but it is another option.
One thing not mentioned above: When you get the old bolt out--glob on LOTS of "never-seize" before you push the new stabilizer bolt in the tie rod. That should make it easier to remove the next time!
Good luck.
Hope one of the treatments works for you. If not try what I did--it takes a while but it is another option.
One thing not mentioned above: When you get the old bolt out--glob on LOTS of "never-seize" before you push the new stabilizer bolt in the tie rod. That should make it easier to remove the next time!
Good luck.
#17
thanks everyone for the tips. the puller i got from autozone really didn't budge it and kept slipping off because of the tight space. thankfully, i bought the pickle fork at the same time. i wedged that sucker in and went at it. it still didn't move, but i repositioned it from the otherside and kept slugging away. after 2-3 minutes, it finally started working. installing the procomp was pretty easy, except for getting that new pin wedged in, but it finally got seated after torquing down the nut. what a difference! the steering feels really smooth now.
next tuesday, i'm getting a downey header installed and having the rest of the engine and electrical looked at by toy connection in san jose. they do nothing but toyota trucks. i did a compression test last week and all cylinders were pumping 175, so i thought it'd be time to fix it up a little bit. i installed the K&N last week, shocks, shifter socket and bushing from marlin and now the stablilizer. i've owned the 4runner for two weeks, so i'm just getting it ready for the winter and tahoe.
thanks again.
next tuesday, i'm getting a downey header installed and having the rest of the engine and electrical looked at by toy connection in san jose. they do nothing but toyota trucks. i did a compression test last week and all cylinders were pumping 175, so i thought it'd be time to fix it up a little bit. i installed the K&N last week, shocks, shifter socket and bushing from marlin and now the stablilizer. i've owned the 4runner for two weeks, so i'm just getting it ready for the winter and tahoe.
thanks again.
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