Receved my new head complete with cam and gasket set

for my 22re 1989 4Runner 4x4.
The problem is got it all back togather without any problems but,
on my cam intake and exaust rocker set for #1 and #3 are not getting and oil comming out on top of the cam lobes like it should.
The new head bolts were 3/8" of an inch longer i treaded them in till they started to get tight started to torque them in and seen they were at least 1/4" too long so i swapped them for the original one only a couple years old... but now i have no oiling going on for cam lobes for pistions 1 and 3 intake and exaust?
Could a piece of head gasket down in a head bolt hole clog things up?
note: before the head swap gasket change they were all working before i tore it down...

Or did i screw up and possibly crush my oil galleys in my head?
Still Learning The hard way...
any help would be great thanks

OTHER Thoughts the new heat gasket is the lamanated steel type could the hole pattern be missing some holes.
Head and gasket set and new head from japanengines_inc

on ebay

 

ooooh, MLS head gasket. I hope you machined the head and block smooth. (Notice I said smooth, not flat)

It's POSSIBLE that the gasket doesn't have the oil holes, but I doubt it. It's most likely a piece of debris inside the passage. How did you clean off the old gasket?

 

I scraped it off with a razor blade, it was a toyota asbestos type and i would guess i knocked a 3/16" size piece of gasket into the second or 3 hole from the back on the left side where the bolt holes are?
the block is nice and clean, I had a guy i knew change the head gasket about 10 months ago and when i was inside for a few moments he dropped my head in the street, and bent one of my valves and some other dammage to the head then he changed the gasket and had it back togather when i came out trying to hide the dammage.so i saved some money and bought a brand new complete head and valves ready to go. The new head the aluminum looks like a mirror where it mates the block.
Then i took it apart on my own this time. BTW would i be better off with a OEM Yota gasket.
and HOW doI gat the small piece of gasket out of my oil galley if it is in their?
?COMPERESSED AIR? OR DO HAVE TO TAKE THE OIL PUMP OUT SO I DO NOT KILL IT WITH THE AIR?

 

A metal head gasket will almost never blow on you. You'll find them on pertty much any performance turbo motor if the owner knows what's good for him. They hold an insane amount of cylinder pressure, and they don't normally fall apart after years of heat cycles. The one downside to them is that they'll leak unless the mating surfaces (head and block) are properly prepared. If the surfaces are too rough, the head gasket won't seal. A good rule of thumb is if it doesn't feel completely smooth when you drag your finger nail across it, it's too rough. If it's not leaking now, you'll be fine though.


As for the blockage, I would first try poking something sharp through the top to break it up (like a welding rod, or a long steel wire.) Alternatively, try sompressed air from the top to blow it back down into the pan. The pump will survive fine with compressed air, just make sure that the pump's re-primed before you start the motor again, as the air might un-prime the pump.

 

How did you determine that those aren't oiling?

If they really aren't oiling, but the rest of the cam lobes are, than it sounds like only those holes are clogged. If you had a problem with oil delivery, you wouldn't be getting oil anywhere in your head.

I'm running a japanengine motor with the steel head gasket. So far, so good. I doubt any holes were clogged, unless the packaging was torn and it was dirty inside when you got it.

 

I left the valve cover off and attached a wire to the starter, (plugs out, key off etc safe )
and spun it over to check how every thing functioned before i buttoned it up and noticed that every time the cam points to noon it gets squirted with oil but only a drop on 1 intake and none on 1 exaust valve same for 3 but no oil at all) repeated several time for up to 60-90 seconds watching it all )
<I DID POUR ABOUT A QT OR 2 of oil over the whole new assembly before i tried. so i did not run it dry>

 

UPDATE finally had time too take it all apart and go through it again and the rocker assembely was solid with carbon, <burned oil> inside the tubes that hold the rockers and feed them with oil,
Soaked the whole thing in gas for a week and that did not tuch it the only thing that worked was to take completely apart and spray carb and choke cleaner in it and twist a 18" long 5/16" drill bit around till full of caked carbon then scrape off and repeat and soak in them in carb cleaner and wrap in tin foil over night and repeat till i could drop the drill bit and it would pass out the other side....
thanks guys for all your help..........wm g key largo,fl

 

check out their higher oiling capacity rocker shafts:

http://www.22reperformance.com/22RE%...-%20Parts.html