deadduckky

I started my 1990 V6 4Runner up this morning (about 5 degrees out) and it started just fine. I went in to the house to let it warm up and 5 minutes later when I came out it was not running. I tried to start it and the motor would not fire at all!! After work I could get it to run only if I sprayed starting fluid into the air intake by the throttle body. I have been reading these posts on here for the past hour now trying to figure this thing out. I replaced the fuel pump about 4,000 miles ago but I can't hear it run when the key is turned on. I had put HEET in my fuel tank earlier this week and it ran just fine when the weather was about -20 two days ago. ANY IDEAS!!!!! I do have an ohm meter but not sure on how to go about testing everything? Is it possible its the fuel filter? Where is this even located on a 1990 v6 runner?

THANKS!!!
Steve

abecedarian

check the first few posts on the forum, in particular look for the one referencing links to the FSM (Factory Service Manual).

dannomite

A few years back my buddy with a 90 replaced his fuel pump and very shortly after it went again, so it does happen. As far as your fuel filter just follow your fuel lines from the tank, I think it is on the inside frame rail on the drivers side. But please don't hole me to that.

thook

Fuel filter's on the pass side frame rail near the tranny/t-case crossmember.

Search for the FSM and circuit opening relay switch/fuel pump relay.

Find the grey diagnostic box near your fuse box under the hood. Jump the FP and B+ terminals with a paper clip or small wire. See if the vehicle will then run.

Any CEL codes?

deadduckky

I tried the paper clip and it still didn't run, how do I check for those codes??

Thanks again.

thook

You tried the paper clip at those two terminals? And, it didn't run? Okay.....well, you could have a problem in the wiring to the fuel pump or the fuel delivery is obstructed.

With the motor cold, pull the cold start injector from the plenum (leave the connector on), try jumping the two terminals again, and turn the motor over a couple of times. If you don't see any fuel, check your wires and fuel filter.

As for pulling codes, the info has been covered and a search would tell you, but it's the TE1 and E1 terminals with the key on. Count the flashes and then run a search for CEL codes.

thook

I should add that if you jump the FP and B terminals with the key on, you should here fuel pressure building in the lines or at the fuel rail. As well, you may even hear the fuel pump. If you don't hear any of that, chances are the fuel pump is not working.

Kiroshu

If its not gettin fuel it really is only 2 things. Pump or filter. Lines rusted? Leaks? Sometimes in real cold wheather the pumps can go out. whats the warranty on that pump you got its prolly cheaply made. But its mostlikey the pump. unless the filter has never been changed the get that its only like 10 bucks. Get a pump with a lifetime warranty and you should be good. You do the pump your self? Or have it put in? Maybe if you had it done some where they might not even have replaced it and screwed you over. The pump is under the rear passanger seat under a panel the screws off.

thook

First, he has a second gen 4rnr.....no access panel like the 1st gens.

And, not "only 2 things". There is a relay switch for the fuel pump that when goes out, cuts off power to the fuel pump. While this may be bad, the fuel pump and fuel filter coud be fine and still a no fuel condition. Then, there's the airflow meter circuit......

But, anyway.......

abecedarian

so we need to get to the COR of the problem?

Kiroshu

um no sir there is a pannel i've had a 95 its exactly like the 1st spot sir and genrally the switches don't go bad but is a small possibility but simlpe stuff its pump and filter.

deadduckky

Thanks for the help everyone!! I replaced the fuel pump myself so I know it is new but don't know the warranty. I bought the truck not running with a new fuel pump in the back seat but no box/paper work. I'm gonna try to locate the cold starter injector and try that now and also try running for a code.
Thanks for the help, I'll let you know what I find!

thook

Hmm....I guess some had them and some didn't. What do I know?

Good luck, deadduckky.

deadduckky

I just tried that again and did not hear anything. I also disconnected the cold starter and she still didn't start. I looked up the code at: http://www.troublecodes.net/Toyota/ using the OBD I Codes (hopefully this is correct??) and the first number that came up was (4-3 Starter Signal) then (5-2 knock sensor signal). Does this make any sense?? I found the gas filter and she looks pretty old possibly original but I don't think she would just quit working like this entirely. I'm thinking its the fuel pump even though it is like brand new. Any ideas now??? I really do appreciate all the help since I know very little about these trucks!!

deadduckky

Another thought is that the maybe the wiring to the fuel pump are at fault....I can get too the two wires connected to the fuel pump since I left them long for when I reinstalled the tank. Can I hook 12Volts directly too these two and see if it runs or is it running at a different voltage and I may ruin the fuel pump?!!?

abecedarian

no, you won't ruin the pump. just make sure you get the polarity right so you don't damage the pump, your wiring or other components in the truck.
but if you've got a meter or test light, why not check if you're getting voltage back there first before you start jumpering things?
If you're getting voltage back there, you'll know it's the pump or the pump ground.

deadduckky

1
True that. That sounds like an even better idea, thanks! So what I should do is with the ignition key to the ON position or with the jumper wire (paper clip) in place go back and see if I am getting 12 Volts at the fuel pump plug in??
Thanks!

deadduckky

Allright with the key on AND the paper clip jumper for the fuel pump I was reading 12.11 VDC at the plug in for the fuel pump. With no paper clip jumper and key on 1 Volt. But when I ran 12volts directly to the fuel pump I heard it kick in!!! So the fuel pump is good but how am I getting 12volts yet the pump wont kick in???? I'm really lost now, is the relay not working, how do I go about testing that now??

The wires underneath the truck: yellow, orange, white, brown and another gray wire casing (may have several wires in it have been spliced and look in not so good shape. I'm gonna lookup and see what these are all for.

Air Flow meter also tested within the proper resistance range

Ideas??

Noltz

You won't get 12v on the line unless the paper clip is in, or the engine is turning over. The MAF trips the circuit opening relay, which in turn sends power down to the pump. So there must be airflow before you'll get fuel. Toyota's way of shutting down the fuel supply if the engine stalls - no matter what .

Does it run with the paper clip?

deadduckky

NO it doesn't, thats what I don't get. The amps must not be the same???