scope103

As opposed to what? Leaving a nice note in your ashtray a week in advance?

Sure. When something breaks, there is always the possibility that it will break in a matter of seconds. There isn't much in a coil (or igniter, or the wiring to these parts) that slowly degrades.

You've got the FSM; you know what to do next.

4runner4dan

iTrader: (1)

Yeah . I'm going to check my ashtray. never thought to look there, thanks
BTW the FSM is a little confusing, it says to check the terminals on the ECM from the back of the wire connectors but it also says to disconnect it. Why can't you do tests from the open side of the harness?

chrisorbics

I used to be into jeep cherokees. They are known for crank shaft position sensors. This engine does not have one I guess.

92_yota_v6

do you guys think it could be a bad ignition switch makeing it where it wont spark and not get fuel?

jerry507

Ignition system goes through AM2 (30A) and the ignition switch and that's it. Then directly to the igniter and ignition coil. So make sure you're getting voltage directly to that thing on the black w/ red wire. Since you have the v6, you have a separate igniter and ignition coil so make sure you check BOTH parts. Once you know that, you can start checking other stuff...

Kiroshu

Check Air Flow Meter.

4runner4dan

iTrader: (1)

Just got mine back on the road. I was checking ground points in the engine bay and found one loose (intake-firewall) and the fusible link off B+ post came off in my hand. Fixed both and all is well...for now.

jerry507

If you're not getting spark OR fuel, there is little related between the two. They share the fusible link AM2 and the ignition switch. AM2 powers a TON of stuff and the easiest to test is headlights. Got them, and AM2 is good. The ignition switch is a bit tougher to check because it only provides power to the IGN 7.5A fuse. The easiest check is getting a multimeter and checking for voltage at the fuse. Also make sure that fuse is good.

However, the fuel pump turning on requires a good IGN fuse, EFI fuse, good EFI main relay, and good circuit opening relay. Troubleshoot the fuel pump first, because it requires no input from the ECU. The ignition system however is ECU controlled so that makes it much more complex to check.

92_yota_v6

we replaced the ignitor and the coil still nothing. also had the mechanic replace the distributor know he thinks it could possibly be the switch also put a new fuel pump in it

jerry507

The switch is pretty easy to test with either a multimeter or test light. Check for voltage at the fuse when the key is in the IG position, or hook the light up between the hot side of the fuse and gnd.

Kiroshu

Check Air flow meter?

vanduzerwilliam

+1 to this haha just replaced one a a jeep the other day, the kid was hell bent that if was the CPS and turned out to be a grey wire in the pcm plug was loose, and not seating right, after investigation, it seels someone had played woth the loom before, with alot of electrical tape and splicing..

gt350mk

There is a power supply that goes to the ignition control module. Make sure it is getting voltage there. You could also check the positive on the coil, if that is easier and you feel more comfortable. If you are not getting power to the ignition control module or coil then you have to check upstream of those two. If you are getting voltage to the coil and/or ignition control module, then either the coil or module has failed. Dont worry about distributors or plugs right now as they are downstream of the coil/ignition module. I had this happen to me, but on an old F150 where the previous owner really messed up the wiring by placing an aftermarket distributor in an engine that is not know for being very popular. If we are dealing with non-stock wiring, get rid of that if possible and bring things back to stock. Good luck

92_yota_v6

would the air flow master cause this?

scope103

No.

(Assuming you mean the VAF. http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1990-1995...e/volumeai.pdf You don't have an air flow master or AFM. You'll get better responses if you take a few seconds to use the right names for parts.)

92_yota_v6

i was asking cause that guy said to check it.

Gonzo4Runner

Have you read the diagnostic codes from the ECM? If there are codes they would give you a good idea where to start.

gt350mk

I don't think the mass air flow sensor would prevent spark to the plugs, although if faulty would prevent the vehicle from running or running real rough. I like what one of the dudes said about testing the electrical components. Its not the distributor as that is the secondary wiring/voltage. You have to find where the voltage has stopped. Electrical buggers are a bugger to find. Get yourself a multimeter. Look for at least twleve volts (although 13+ is more like it). Place black wire or ground on an engine or chassis part that has no paint or sludge. Turn ignition to on. Unplug coil wire. Insert red wire of multimeter into red or positive of coil (test both if unsure). If no twelve volts plug coil wire back in and unplug ignition module harness. Check hot for voltage. If no voltage, open up fuse box. Turn off ignition. Unplug ignition fuse. Turn ignition back on. Test for voltage. Do not worry about sensors now. Look for voltage relating to primary ignition (components prior to distributor) girlfriend calling. Let us know

91blackyoda

okay guys im kinda having the same issue my 1991 3.0 is gettin an intintal spark with a coil tester and then it just quits ive replaced the igniter and the coil as well as all fuses and a distributer any ideas

92_yota_v6

it turned out to be my efi relay that made mine not fire at all. you might can check that if you havnt already