i got a 92 pickup 3.0 its not getting any spark to the plugs. what could make it do this?

 

Many many things...any other symptoms that you could give to help narrow down the possibilities?

 

Have you checked your distributor? Plugs? Wires? How do you know its not getting spark.

Download the Factory service manual from the FAQ thread above.

And welcome to Yotatech!

 

we took the plug wire off and its not sparking. no spark to the plugs and its not fireing from the coil

 

Have you checked the cap and rotor?

...just askin

Click this, Its the online version of the FSM

http://ncttora.com/fsm/1993/index.html

 

not sure illcheck it tomorrow and see.

 

I've got the same problem - no spark from the coil on my 91 toy v6. Still doing some tracing.... I want to keep checking to see how you are proceeding with your diagnosis. thanks...

 

Just registered with yotatech today - need your help. My 91 toy truck v6 4x4 is cranking but not starting, no spark from the coil. The CHECK ENGINE light does not come on when ignition is in ON position which could mean no power to the ECU.

Thanks for immediate reply...

 

Ignitor coil? Went out on my 22re about 10 years ago. The thing just dies driving down the road. Super easy fix, if it happens to be the coil. Good luck!

 

I'd say either your ignitor coil or the ignitor is bad.

 

we replaced the ignitor and coil. and stillnot working. took it to a shop and he tried a few things and thinks its in the wiring. sorry for the late reply iv been really busy.

 

Check the 80 amp fuse (EFI) in the fuse box under the hood. If you need to replace it, DO NOT try to pull it out. You have to remove the bolt holding it in (pull the fuse box first) from underneath.

 

we checked it and it was good

 

The 80amp fuse would take out the starter, so it probably is not that. There is a 30amp fuse that powers the ignition only. Easy to test; is there 12v with key-on at the + terminal of the ignition coil? (and pin 3/black-red of the igniter; they're connected together). Is there continuity from - terminal of ignition coil to to pin 4/black/white of the igniter?

Get a timing light for $20. Much easier and safer than trying to hold a plug wire close to the block, and you're going to need it for sure soon enough.

Last, let's all try to be clear with the vocabulary. We have an ignition coil and an igniter. We don't have an ignitor coil - which one would that refer to?

As roostertail points out, if the check engine light doesn't come on with key-on, you've got other problems to fix first. You're no where near working on the ignition yet.

 

FYI: the 80 amp fuses does NOT take out the starter~

 

Fair enough; I'm going off the schematics for a '94.

 

Well, I have a '94 & when I blew my 80 amp, the starter still worked....

 

http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1990-1995...t/descript.pdf (page St-2).

The starter SWITCH is downstream of the fusible link/80a/40a fuses. The switch drives the relay which drives the starter (through the park neutral switch).

So the manual could be wrong, your truck could be wired differently than the manual, or something else. Note that we're not talking about using a "remote starter switch" direct to terminal 50 of the starter; that would work because there is no fuse in the fat wire from the battery to the starter. But 92_yota_v6 talked about "no sparking," which sounded like he cranked the engine by turning the key.

 

Bad fuse, corroded or loose connection between the distributor / ignitor / chassis wiring, bad pickup(s) in the distributor, bad igniter, bad wiring / ignition switch.

 

This is so wierd finding this topic going right now. I was getting off the freeway minding my own business when it just quits. (92 3.0) It cranks over, pulled a plug wire and no spark, pulled cap and rotor spins so no timing belt issues. I started with the Haynes book and FSM and they say to start with the coil. Do they really go bad just like that?