Truck was running fine last night, This morning I go out there and It's turning over but but not starting. Checked and I got no spark, Checked all the fuses, All good, Cap and rotor were a little muddy from the breather I thought I had found my problem, Got it all cleaned up still no spark.

Last week It did the same thing to me.. It was turning over but wouldn't start.. I just left it alone for a couple hours and tried again and it fired right up. Maybe that was a sign that something was about to crap out on me.

Went to work 2 hours late today, Working 20 miles away from home makes it difficult when your transportation craps out..

After searching the forum I see that the igniter may be the problem but my meter is a pos and I cant get an ohms reading, Ill see about borrowing a fluke 88 from school tomorrow


Any suggestions for now?

 

Yes, the ignitor *might* be the problem, just don't assume it and replace it without testing first.

The fluke will definately do the job, but so would a new el cheapo meter. Of course, check all connections, especially the coil to distributor wire. Check the resistances of every related part, and if you have to, the continuity of any related wires.

 

Engine???

Check for power on the pos terminal of the coil when ignition is on. If no, either bad ignition switch or bad connection either from batt to switch or switch to coil.

If power, check resistance of both circuits of coil. (Disconnect all coil leads before testing.) Specs in fsm in the "Ignition - On Vehicle Inspection" section.

Check resistance of signal coil(s) in distrib per fsm spec - won't get a spark without that/them. Also check clearance between signal rotor(s) & the signal coil projection(s). Specs in same fsm section mentioned above. If 22re, check connection between signal coil & igniter. Clean up igniter ground (mounting bolts).

Verify continuity in high tension cable from coil to distrib. Make sure it isn't shorting out on something.

If 22re, the igniter will trigger a spark if it has power & ground & a good signal from signal coil - it can make a spark (with no advance) without the ecu. If 3VZE, the signal coils connect to ecu & ecu must send triggering signal on IGT to igniter - the igniter can't do it on its own.

If you have a good automotive meter with a tach function or a tach, connect neg lead to neg terminal of ignition coil when cranking - if the igniter is working it should ground that lead and show rpms even if the coil is bad or there's no spark for some other reason. If it doesn't show rpms and you've checked everything else, try a different igniter.

 

This is a really nice auto-ranging multimeter for a steal at $18 shipped: http://www.amazon.com/Equus-3320-Aut...dp/B000EVYGZA/
http://www.iequus.com/Product/Detail...6-77374C6F2293

 

Try tappng on the igniter/coil.... sometimes that'll do the trick.... however, if it does, I wouldnt go to far without replacing.

 

Ended up being EFI Relay

Used this

http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...95efimainr.pdf

Thanks guys!

 

You must have the 3vze. A bad EFI Main Relay won't stop a spark on the 89-95 22re. (But I think the coil and igniter on the 88 and earlier trucks ARE powered by the EFI Main Relay instead of directly from the ignition switch as on the later trucks).

 

my truck does the same thing, I just hold the gas pedal to the floor as I turn the ignition, works every time. But I've been meaning to get it fixed.