You should be able to hear them clicking by using a stethoscope or large screwdriver.

 

while turning over?

 

yes... or use a long piece of vacuum hose

 

can you elaborate this test light method?

 

It's a special test light, often referred to as a 'noid' light, that plugs into the injector plug and flashes on and off when there is a pulse for the injectors. you plug it in and watch the light while someone cranks the engine. If it doesn't flash, you're not getting a pulse to fire the injectors. If you go to buy one, make sure you get one compatible with type "C" injectors.

And for other reference- all 4 injectors fire at the same time, once per engine revolution. Even though the wiring diagram suggests differently around the ECU, you'll find that bank 1 and 2 are tied together in the harness near the intake manifold, so you don't necessarily have to test all 4 injector plugs for a signal.

 

ok, i'll try to listen for the clicks tomorrow, sounds like a cheaper way to rule out the injectors. if it turns out that i am not getting any signal to the injectors would that point to a faulty ECM? and would that require replacement?

oh and my truck is a V6 if that changes anything.

 

it would point to an issue with wiring or the ECM
but then we don't know yet, do we?

 

could possibly be an issue with the igniter or it's wiring.

 

i did have recent problems with the distributor cap. i guess when i installed the cold air intake i must have put some force on the coil wire cuz it broke off at the cap. so replaced everything - plugs, wires, rotor and cap.
actually it was after i'd changed out the rotor (got it a day after everything else) that the truck stalled, while i was moving from our shop to the carport. but, i did check to make sure the rotor was rotating and that i got the wires in the right order. i did also check for spark. so i think that rules out the igniter and wiring.

just to re-cap, here is a list of what i have tried:

-fuel pump - works
-fuel filter - replaced
-ignition switch replaced (not really related)
-AFM cleaned with throttle body cleaner
-bypassed COR and AFM - turns on fuel pump
-checked connections and wiring from COR back to pump
-found EFI relay to be faulty - bypassed still no start
-cold start injector - fuel to injector rail

 

i went to the wreckers today and poached a few parts for my truck. i got a COR and a EFI relay for $10! plus a handful of hardware i pocketed. irony is that the fuel pump in my dads truck went when i was trying to leave. my luck!
so i got home finally and plugged the EFI relay in and tried to turn the engine over with no luck. then i tried the COR, it didn't want to but i got her started FINALLY!
so all that head scratching and un-necessary work lead me right to 2 parts i got for $1o that just plug in.
thanks to everyone who offered some input.
what a great resource this site is!

but i have a new issue... my truck seems to kinda pop from the exhaust like a small backfire, but you dont notice it from the engine itself. also when i dump the throttle its like theres a backfire in the AFM. it sounds like a big bang of the sensor slamming.
anybody have any suggestions?

 

i had wires 2 and 4 crossed at the d/c
oops.

 

I know there is a hiddn relay somewhere in the dash that will fire the truck up. Just cant find yet.