Melrose 4r

1986 4runner

When i open the passenger door, the overhead interior light works properly.
when i open the driver's door, nothing.
i thought it would be a slam dunk, just the pin switch- but it tests out ok and i removed the drivers kick panel
and could see the wiring intact. I even grounded the wire at the connector, eliminating the pin switch, still no light.
what else could it be?

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

I never checked if the right door light comes on if you have the switch turned off.

I keep mine off all the time .

It just might be the switch is off.

Poor or corroded connection at the door switch

Melrose 4r

my truck only has the overhead light. No individual right or left fixtures.

RAD4Runner

Put switch so dome comes on when passenger door is opened.
Measure voltage at connector on driver side switch. There should be 12V there when driver's side door is closed OR when disconnected from door switch. If no voltage, broken wire or connection to dome light, or burnt/open diode along that wire run (see schematic).

Melrose 4r

Thanks radrunner, i'll try that tomorrow. Physically where is the diode located? It would make sense that after 31 years the driver's circuit has many more cycles on it than the passenger ckt.

RAD4Runner

Always happy to help
SOrry, I haven't physically seen where the diodes are... just on schematic.
Note: The 12V youll read when door is closed will be from leakage through the dome light filament. The door switch "sinks" it to ground when switch closes.

GeoRoss

One thing that helped me was pulling the door switch and cleaning it throughly with electronic cleaning solution.

Melrose 4r

didn't get to it today, but noticing on the schematic that the wire back to the diode is Red and after the diode is R-W so that will help. My truck does not have the illumination package.

Melrose 4r

thanks for the suggestion...i did remove it and hit it with CRC contact cleaner but it tests fine for continuity so the problem is elsewhere.

TaharaMan

Notice the grounding symbol at the switch in the wiring diagram above. Toyota has over the years used both a "piercing screw" (self tapping) type or a weld nut and bolt style ground on these courtesy lamp switches. The screw type are known for intermittent loss or lack of grounding. You might try running a temp ground wire to the body of the switch from a known good ground. Or, if it is the self tapping style, install a bit larger screw. Alternatively you can take a ball-peen hammer and flatten the metal where the screw goes through and it will improve the tightness of the fit.

128keaton

you are correct. I had a similar issue with my dome light. I sanded the contacts and it was fine. I'd personally check the rubber boot in the doorjamb to see if it was damaged at some point.

Melrose 4r

Guys... IT IS NOT THE SWITCH. I bypassed the switch and grounded the wire to the body and the result was the same- zip.

Melrose 4r

Uh-oh, after looking at the schematics last night i think this might be a problem of my own making...
The key buzzer was driving me crazy so i homed in on it under the dash and yanked it. Didnt notice anything not working after that but it was daylight at the time.
What do you want to bet if i put it back the dome light starts working again?
I cant find the buzzer itself on the schematic, though. Does anybody know which page?

wallytoo

iTrader: (1)

i don't have the page number handy, but removing the key buzzer disables the dome light from the driver side switch. somewhere in a YT thread, i even described how to disable the buzzer function without removing the buzzer relay from the circuit.

Melrose 4r

Thanks, Wally.

RAD4Runner

AHA!
Re: buzzer.
The key left in ignition buzzer does not bother me because, so I'm OK with it.
The seatbelt buzzer does bother me; Wearing the seatbelt is automatic to me (back then, supposedly, IF a military person gets killed in a vehicle accident while not wearing a seatbelt he would not be covered by serviceman's insurance.) SO I simply disconnected the seatbelt buckle switch.

Melrose 4r

Well, case closed. I plugged the buzzer back in and the light came right on.

Thanks for your help, everyone.

wallytoo

iTrader: (1)

ok, i lied. the thread was at t4r.org.

you can eliminate the buzz and retain the door-open light-on function by opening the buzzer box and bending the thin metal buzzer striker away from the bell. simple enough to figure out by opening the box.

Melrose 4r

Ha! great! That's what I'll do then because the key buzzer was driving both me and my son crazy. I tend to leave the keys in when we're working on the truck and the doors are often open.
By the way, what part of NH are you in?

wallytoo

iTrader: (1)

lake sunapee region.