No brakes after caliper/MC/booster swap.
#21
When you "pump up" your pedal, is the pedal then relatively firm? (not spongy) Once you pump it up, if you hold your foot on the pedal, does it slowly sink to the floor? If so, it's almost certainly a bad master cylinder. Air in the lines should feel "spongy" (though how bad it is depends on how much air you have).
#23
I drove the truck to work today, gonna stop at a local mechanic that knows Toyotas on the way home. When you hit the pedal the first time, goes to the floor with very little stopping power. Pump it once or twice and it has decent pressure and it holds it enough to stop. I'm still trying to figure it out haha.
#25
#29
#30
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From: I live in New Tripoli Pa out in the woods
well when you get to much pedal travel again time to adjust the rear brakes again.
Myself I can`t stand not having a emergency brake not working
I have fixing them down to a science .
Myself I can`t stand not having a emergency brake not working
I have fixing them down to a science .
#33
#34
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From: I live in New Tripoli Pa out in the woods
Most likely you will need the bell cranks and the bell crank brackets .
I have never had bell cranks rust off just seize in the brackets .
It should be easy to get the bell cranks from some one down south.
I have never had bell cranks rust off just seize in the brackets .
It should be easy to get the bell cranks from some one down south.
#35
I can get a bell crank kit off the internet for like $40 so that's what I'm doing. I have 2 new ebrake cables lying around too so I should be good in a little here
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