Yamiryder

1992 Toyota 22re 4wd 5speed pickup. My brakes weren't the best and were weak at times so I decided to take the calipers, MC, and booster off the parts V6 4runner I had. Brakes worked before when I parked it. I changed the calipers, got new pads, had to put a new hard line going to the caliper on the passenger side. Swapped MC and booster and tried to bleed brakes. Pedal goes to floor and won't build pressure. Swapped stock stuff back on, same thing. I don't know what's wrong. I'm kinda lost and this is taking way longer than I planned. Sorry for the long post. Any suggestions on what went wrong or how to trouble shoot? Thanks.

Yamiryder

Oh and I can't find any leaks and I looked at the calipers and the pads have not tightened to the rotor at all

vital22re

iTrader: (2)

You need to bench bleed the master first. Then bleed starting from the back to front. Cant pump if the master is filled with air. You could try to crack the lines at the master and let gravity do its work. Just make sure you have plenty of DOT3

Yamiryder

How do you bench bleed the master cylinder?

vital22re

iTrader: (2)

Youtube search;

You can jump to 3:30 on this next one.

Yamiryder

Hey thanks a lot! I'll give it a try when I get home tonight, hopefully it goes well.

RustBucket

iTrader: (1)

Don't forget to bleed the LSPV last!

Yamiryder

Oh great, what's special about bleeding that?

RustBucket

iTrader: (1)

Here's the process I used with good success recently:

Bleed both MC ports (just like you would a standard bleeder valve)
Rear driver's wheel
Rear passenger wheel
Front passenger wheel
Front drivers wheel
LSPV

The LSPV has a bleeder valve on it. The FSM says to bleed it last. It is also higher than the calipers and wheel cylinders, maybe that is why.

Yamiryder

Okay thanks. I can't wait to see how hard it will be to get that broke loose, haha.

RustBucket

iTrader: (1)

Use a penetrant and give it some time to work. PB Blaster is OK, Kroil is hands-down the best if you can get it.

Yamiryder

Okay so I tried bench bleeding the mc and it was good. Bled the brakes and I can get some pressure build up. However, when I turn the truck on the pedal goes to the floor and the brakes barely work. Tried my old MC and the same thing happened. I'm lost.

CJM

Still got air in the lines.

Try this: bench bleed the master and attach it to the truck. Then starting with working from the FURTHEST point from the master (pass side rear tire!) have a helper pump the pedal 5-7x and then you take a bottle of break fluid and a hose and put it over the bleeder then crack the bleeder and have the helper push the pedal almost to the floor. It goes like this: pump it up you yell, (you hear them pump it a few times) then you say hold and then you open the bleeder. Repeat in this order:

rear pass
rear driver
front pass
front driver
load sensing proportioning valve

if you still have issue you can try adjusting the booster pushrod a bit at a time and see.

Should be good to go. You have air in the lines somewhere, look at the hose that goes into your bottle and see if there are loads of bubbles in it-bubbles mean air.

Yamiryder

I did bleed them and I did basically like you said. I was thinking maybe my master cylinder is bad.

RustBucket

iTrader: (1)

Did you bleed the MC at the fittings after install?

Keep bleeding it and you'll get it eventually. Same issue I was having a few weeks ago.

Did you mess with your drums at all? Are they adjusted properly?

Yamiryder

I tried bleeding them some at the fittings, seemed fine. I can hear the shoes press against the drums when the brakes are applied. But it seems like the rear brakes have more pressure than the from and I'm not building as much as I should be up front.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

It could be the line you replaced is sucking air making it impossible to bleed.

Then it is possible depending how long your parts truck sat the o rings could have seized causing one or more to tear when you went to bleed it after the swap.

Really I thought only I had luck like that!!!

For what it is worth I have never been able to bleed the LSPV on any of my Toyota`s The one attempt ended in having to buy a brand new one$$$

Living in the great salt belt!!

Yamiryder

Thanks guys. I really never could find a leak or a bad line. I think its either air in the line or my master cylinder. Probably gonna get a cylinder today or tomorrow and keep bleeding them. Makes me wish I never woulda messed with them in the first place cause they worked before!

Yamiryder

WL bled the brakes again as well as I could. Took my truck for a drive and I have some brakes but not that great. Pedal is soft, but will firm up in 1-2 pumps. Believe it is my master cylinder or a brake line.

scope103

When you "pump up" your pedal, is the pedal then relatively firm? (not spongy) Once you pump it up, if you hold your foot on the pedal, does it slowly sink to the floor? If so, it's almost certainly a bad master cylinder. Air in the lines should feel "spongy" (though how bad it is depends on how much air you have).