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Old Nov 1, 2007 | 11:53 AM
  #41  
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From: maple ridge, British Columbia, Canada
There are guys running trucks with tires sticking out almost a foot.
There are tons of guys running way over the bumper hight law (im technecly almost at the highest bumper hight aloud)
an there are tons of guys running uncovered lights.

I am going to run my truck as it is, lights covers, tires uncovered and see what happens.
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Old Nov 1, 2007 | 01:55 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by MMA_Alex
the tire thing depends on the state, and usually cops wont pull you over for equipment violations unless they're having a bad day and feel like being an , or you're driving like an .

Different states have different laws regarding the lights too.

equipment tickets tend to be fairly cheap and dont effect insurance.

ps. in a lot of states you're required to have a stock exhaust, or you can get an equipment ticket for that too.
Yeah you're right about that day thing... another time they get antsy is during car show things... we have/had a tuner show series here called "DarKnights" and the cops would set up on the area streets and pull over nearly every car and check for "illegal" mods. lots of tickets handed out for a lot of mickey mouse stuff like aftermarket exhaust tips, lowering kits, lights, too loud stereos, racing seatbelts [properly mounted mind you], and other junk... they made it so bad they cancelled the show last year...
a buddy told me about the cops setting up down the road from a private property mud bog event checking rigs also...

You should be fine with your set up though they will probably only have an issue with your stuff if they pull you over for something else...
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Old Nov 1, 2007 | 02:20 PM
  #43  
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From: maple ridge, British Columbia, Canada
If I get pulled over for my tires I will go buy some flares. Even though I love the look of the tires sticking out, it kinda gives you that mini monster truck look


But more updates, I have pulled my roll bar back out, I am getting rust under it so I have cleaned off the mounting areas, waiting for the water to dry. Going to re-paint thoes parts with rust paint. Drill another hole for wires then remount it with silicone on the bolts to prevent water seeping up thought them.
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Old Nov 1, 2007 | 05:18 PM
  #44  
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From: maple ridge, British Columbia, Canada
Wired up my driving lights on the roll bar. I have to shim the lights where they mount to the roll bar because it wont allow the light to point down any farther. The light is hitting the ground roughly 50 ft away.



Install went VERY smooth. No problems.

12 guage for the power, 14 guage for the grounds.
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Old Nov 2, 2007 | 04:53 AM
  #45  
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Very very cool looking Jay...
one thing about the roll bar lights though... my friend had a set on his roll bar on his 86 and the lights actually peeled the paint off his roof [in two clear lines]! Not saying don't use them just keep an eye on your roof.
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Old Nov 2, 2007 | 06:58 AM
  #46  
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Im guessing he used the lights ALOT eh?

Well if it happens it happens, my paint is pretty messed up anyways.
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Old Nov 2, 2007 | 03:41 PM
  #47  
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Just so you guys know, it's not "3.5" ABS piping - it's 3" abs piping. It just has an O.D. of roughly 3.5" but don't go into home depot or a plumbing wholesaler asking for 3.5" because they might have a laugh at your expense.
Sorry, I'm a plumber...had to make that correction.

Just a side note as well. If you really want to have the cats arse of plastic pipe for your ISR mod, you might want to get PVC System 15 instead of ABS. System 15 PVC has a fire rating, ABS does not. This means it can tolerate higher temperatures. That and CPVC, like something the sprinklerfitters might use (the orange stuff) which I think is flow guard, or corzan (Ipex grey Schedule 80 CPVC). But keep in mind if you choose to spend the $$$ on these quality parts, they will cost you more than straight ABS and the glue will cost more (plus you need primer on CPVC and PVC which is another cost).

I myself have always wondered, but haven't done too much investigation, if you could just loosen the 2 gear clamps on the intake silencer and just put an elbow between the 2, that way you don't lose the isolation from the engine that these rubber sleeves provide for your intake/afm, etc.
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Old Nov 2, 2007 | 04:20 PM
  #48  
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I was originally planning on PVC, and using a smaller size such as a 3" outside diameter, but I couldnt find any of that shedule 80 stuff.

So I just used this instead, I have driven my truck quite a few places, no burning. Have checked the pipe tons of times, no marks or anything, seems to be good.

I was thinking perhaps the diameter of the piping is what is causing the intake to be so quiet, I remember seeing guys with ISR mods that sound great, mine is very very quite.
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Old Nov 3, 2007 | 06:29 AM
  #49  
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Jay - ANYTHING is quiet compared to your exhaust LOL.

I'm sure ABS will be probably be fine, I just like to be over engineered- kinda like my Toyota. You won't find the pipes I talked about unless you go to a plumbing whole saler.

PVC System 15 is a DWV (Drainage, Waste & Vent) Pipe that is being used now a days in some instances to replace Cast Iron in high rises because it has a fire rating which means if there is a fire, it won't melt the pipe right away giving the fire a hole in the wall or celing or floor to move through to another unit. As for 2 1/2" (3" OD roughly), the only 2 1/2" I know of is copper water pipe.
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Old Nov 3, 2007 | 12:59 PM
  #50  
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Thanks Coed I've been thinking of re working my ISR mock-up... wanted to find some thin wall copper just to have a different look from all the chrome jobs out there... maybe I'll try the plumb. wholesaler...
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Old Nov 3, 2007 | 03:03 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by CoedNaked
Jay - ANYTHING is quiet compared to your exhaust LOL.

I'm sure ABS will be probably be fine, I just like to be over engineered- kinda like my Toyota. You won't find the pipes I talked about unless you go to a plumbing whole saler.

PVC System 15 is a DWV (Drainage, Waste & Vent) Pipe that is being used now a days in some instances to replace Cast Iron in high rises because it has a fire rating which means if there is a fire, it won't melt the pipe right away giving the fire a hole in the wall or celing or floor to move through to another unit. As for 2 1/2" (3" OD roughly), the only 2 1/2" I know of is copper water pipe.


hehe, its pretty loud eh?

I am still taking peeks at the intake after long drives, no heat scoring or anythign yet, the smell has stopped. I think with me having a body lift helped with the engine bay temp some.
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Old Nov 3, 2007 | 06:00 PM
  #52  
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You can also always have copper chromed. We have a job in a penthouse for an extremely wealthy client where we had some of our exposed copper pipes chrome dipped.

Jay - don't worry about your ABS. Remember how and where your silencer used to sit? It's sitting higher than that. Like I said, I just like over engineered, that's all.
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Old Nov 3, 2007 | 06:14 PM
  #53  
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Im gonna stick with this for now. It was cheap (ish) and since I didnt really notice much gains. It might not be worth dumping more money into an intake.

I have a really bad hesitation now, its always been there but now its getting worse. I have a feeling its my fuel filter. Its never been changed so I think its time to get er done.

I heard they are expensive up here, but in the us they are cheeeaaap.

Hey Scott, any idea's what one would cost?
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Old Nov 3, 2007 | 07:56 PM
  #54  
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Jay,I have no idea what a fuel filter would cost. The only thing I do know is a fuel filter for our trucks is a special order item and might take at least a few days to get as they are not replaced often. What kinda gas are you running out of curiousity? I used to use Esso but I've been using Chevron religiously now for at least the past year and a half.

You might want to be careful about "suspecting" its the fuel filter. Your truck is quite honestly still a baby mileage wise, and you might want to do some more investigating before potentially throwing money at the problem when it might not be fixed. Especially something like a fuel filter which is a PITA apparentlyt remove/install. Just something to note about doing the fuel filter on these things from a tech. There is a good chance you might have an issue with a seized or rusty connection to the fuel filter which might end up requiring you to replace the lines as well. So it could be more of a headache than it's worth and again you're throwing money in parts at what you think might be the problem when it might not be the problem. Now do I find it suspicious that Toyota considers these filters lifetime? Yes. And a tank or two of bad gas could cause issues. But do some more investigation first before throwing parts at it.
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Old Nov 4, 2007 | 07:51 PM
  #55  
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Well I try to use chevron most. Thats whats currently in the truck. I avoid husky/mohawk, shell. Pretty much the only other gas station I fill up at is the supersave in silverdale. I go up there to pick up a friend of mine every so often and the gas is always around 8cents cheaper per Litre.

The truck has run off gas from all kinda of places. I used to run anything as long as it was cheap, then I came to my sences and started taking care of the truck. I am also thinking of spending some coin and filling up with a higher grade next time, seeing what difference it makes. I seem to get around 400km to a tank, or around 100km to each little mark on the gas guage.

From the threads I have read about guys changing their fuel filters they have mentioned that the hessitation from starting off is gone after the replacement.

As for the PITA to replace, I know where the filter is, I will probibly drop the tranny/t-case crossmember before I get down to it so I have more room to work with. My body lift might make it a little easier clearance wise but I will find out when the time comes.
I will start hitting the fittings with pb blaster weeks before touching it.

Jason had ordered some parts from sparkplugs.com so I had him pick me up a set of NGK replacment plug wires, hopfally I will swing up to his place this weekend and install them.

If the fuel filter doesnt make a difference im going to start looking into other things. Defently getting my number 6 cross threaded spark plug fixed. I talked to my mech about it, he has done a few drilling/heli-coil inserts into imports so he is confident that he can get it done, without pulling the head and getting 99% of the shavings out.



Anyways, as you guys can tell, I dont run a lower valance anymore. My tire decided it needed more room to flex so it ripped it off while going through a drainage ditch up at harrison west. I threw it in the shed not knowing what to do with it. I hate to throw things out.... So I did some creative sniping and bending and well... I will grab pictures tomorrow with it reinstalled
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Old Nov 5, 2007 | 05:59 AM
  #56  
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You're only getting @400km to a tank jay?...
I'm getting 602km full to dead empty. I know I can get 590 with no worries at all... about the only difference between our trucks is I'm running 31" BFG ATs and I don;t have weasy's cams (yet)... what was your mileage before the cams?

edit so far as the fuel filter goes I switched to a GM filter for ease of replacement... when you get under there and start working on it you'll find that the banjo nuts are all corroded to the filter and you'll also most likely destroy the fuel lines as well getting the filter out... not your fault or anything just that they get corroded and brittle... if you go to a gm filter just start a once a year or so replacement schedule... no big deal those filters are very cheap to buy...

Last edited by aviator; Nov 5, 2007 at 06:03 AM.
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Old Nov 5, 2007 | 07:35 AM
  #57  
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Well, I on the original o2 sensor that went thought the blown hg ordeal. I have a NGK replacement waiting to go in, but my exhaust had melted the bolts that hold the stocker in, so I have no idea how to get it out.

Can you give me some more info on the GM filter. Think it would be worth it?

And I got about the same milage before the cams with my 31" tires.
We will see what changes after I finally get the o2 sensor in, new fuel filter and my 4.88's

Last edited by Jay351; Nov 5, 2007 at 07:36 AM.
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Old Nov 5, 2007 | 10:24 AM
  #58  
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So far as getting the O2 sensor out all I can suggest is get out a cutting wheel and cut the bolts off, then drill it out for new ones if necessary...

I'll get the info on the GM filter for you, I'd say it's worth it from an ease of maintenance standpoint... about the only difference is that the yota filter has a bypass in it so if the filter gets clogged your truck will still run... nice when you're on the trail but then you also never know when you are running filtered or unfiltered fuel... the GM does'nt have a bypass... if it gets clogged you're stuck where your at, but you can get the filter everywhere and if you can't just stick a bit off tubing in place of the filter and your good to go again (for short dist. obviously)...

speaking of preformance when was the last time you changed/checked the PCV valve? Mine was buggered and it took my mileage from where it is down to about 510/520 tank...

so your saying you always got only 400 to a tank?
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Old Nov 5, 2007 | 10:29 AM
  #59  
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I never really payed attention to the milage till a little after I got the cams done. before I got it, the truck hardly ever had work done.
But my milage is right aroud 400 to a tank. possibly a bit more but nowhere near 500.

How would I check the PCV valve?

Last edited by Jay351; Nov 5, 2007 at 10:30 AM.
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Old Nov 5, 2007 | 01:51 PM
  #60  
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Here is the styled valance. If any of you have seen the thread in the BC forum about our 4x4 trip you will know why I had no valance for awhile..

About an hour with snips and a hammer and I got this

Its pretty cool I think, I like how it covers my rad and body mounts up.

Last edited by Jay351; Nov 6, 2007 at 10:23 AM. Reason: snipped dark photo out.
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