VTEC-dood

I have been a honda guy for years (please dont flame me). I am into learning anything with mechanics. I listed my cars in my signature to show that I am into modifying my cars and now have grown a great interest into my Truck. I am the third owner I have had it for almost 4 months now and I love it. I am interested in doing a few things to it in addition to what is already done. Here are the things currently done to the truck:

It is a loaded SR-5, 4x4, extended cab, V-6, 5 speed, with all power and the optional sunroof. It also has the factory alarm too.
It has power windows, power locks, power steering, power brakes, A/C (not working right now), factory clock, factory tach, factory Toyota bedliner, toneau cover, BFG All-Terrains, factory aluminum rims, sliding back window.
Downey limited slip rear end, Warn unlocking front hubs for better gas mileage, the front truss strengthener, and the Downey Super Clutch assembly.

My question is my heater. When I boughtmy truck the heater it only worked on high. I have done a search and seen about the resistor so I am sure this is one of the problems. The other thing I am wondering about is the last few days of it working when i would go to slide the blower off it was really hard to move slide almost like it was locked so i would just let it run and just slide it to the blue or in the middle so it didnt blow as hot. Now it doesnt work what so ever and if it slide the speed one i can hear the relay "click" I am worried that the slider might be broke why was it stuck? Anyone ever run into this?

InternetRoadkill

If the slider you're referring to is the temperature control, it's likely the heater valve is corroded inside causing the controls to stick.

TORTIS

iTrader: (1)

i have 2 civics 1 accord 1 4wheeer 1 lawn mower. yes i like hondas.

welcome to Y/T

VTEC-dood

I am referring to the slider that controls the speed of the motor. I didnt know if it was sticking due to the malfunctioning resistor? Because once it quit blowing it freed the slider up.

NC-B17A

Welcome to Y-T its a lot more frendly around here then H-T
Nice times for that hp & tq in your Civic.

toytech76

a bad resistor wouldn't affect the blower switch. We see alot of blower switches that short out internally so that may be the cause of your sticking switch. More than likely the blower not working on different speeds is probably from the resistor. They fail all the time. Pull it out carefully and look at the coils. Usually you will see one broken. If its bad replace it and then recheck your blower

ozziesironmanoffroad

maybe your lines going from the switch to the actual heater core that controls the air output? i forget exactly what theyre called, but ill probably remember when im sobered up. maybe those lines are bent/frayed? i have that problem in mine, you feel a strong resistance right?

80W90

like they said: resisitor
take out the fan switch. perhaps goo or cookies is lodged in there.

by the way, that new '89 of yours is NOT a tacoma. its a truck. fix it or put on your flame suit

ozziesironmanoffroad

yeah7 mised that paet, i dout they ,ade tyAacomas in 1089... so yegah....

1990Runner

sort of off topic but on my fan-speed control switch the two middle speeds are reversed. i am used to it now but at first i was kinda scratchin my head : )

VTEC-dood

Well I know I definately need a resistor the heater only worked on the last selection wich was high. So I will be replacing that in the morning.....well i guess in the next 6 hours because it is morning hahaha......I will keep you posted on what I find out it would be nice to find someone who had the same experience as me so I could get everything and have my truck blowing hot air again o-well if that dont fix it completely.

thanks for the kind welcome and positive feedback it helps to solve problems.

Brian

VTEC-dood

after tearing into the truck I need a fan switch unit as well I bought both from napa and will be here tuesday I am excited to be able to use all 4 fan speeds for the first time since owning the truck hahaha. I am going to do a search to see if there is a write up on how to removed the fan switch box.

idanity

its all so basic.

i removed it all to replace the heater core, and what took the most time was taping all the wire connections, and labeling them (before i disconnected them).

good thing too, b/c i actually found 4 plugs that can be swapped. (this actually happened, and for whatever reason, i didnt label them, so when it was all back together, the fan didnt work (when it did before).

it helps to remove the seats and steering wheel, throw down a tarp, and get a magnet for all the screws/bolts (and put most back into its hole for storage).


it took me 2 weekends but i have 2 other vehicles now, and not in any hurry to rush it.


about your sliders, they may be routed incorrectly, or even broken (or not attached).

also, search my handle, i have a lot of photos with everything taken apart (down to the firewall).

leebee

your fan speed switch is shorted out, i have to replace mine as well. the resistor defaults to high speed when it goes out, replaced mine a couple of times. be very careful with the fan speed switch, there is a tab that you have to release in order to remove it.

you pretty much have to dismantle the entire dash to get at the switch unit. check the fsm links at the top of the page, there will be detailed instructions in there. take up idanity and check out his pix, invaluable.

lee

VTEC-dood

I got my fan swith put back in the left side was melted and I get my blower resistor tomorrow. The blower resistor no one had in stock I was so mad I got the fan speed switch broke 2 little clips on the bottom but i got it locked in place and the unit slides so nice side to side. I get off work tomorrow at 5 run to napa get my resistor install it put the glove box back in and she is running again now with an illuminated heater control panel (old one light was burnt out) and a blower that runs on all speeds I cant wait. Thanks for all the help

280ZToy

Believe it or not, I have a 1989 22re 4x4 Toy with an almost identical problem, where the blower only worked in the high setting, but it finally quit altogether. But get this...at the same time coincidentally, my engine began giving me idle problems.

Here is the kicker: When the motor begins to die, and I start hearing the clicking sound in the Engine Control Box, if I turn the AC on and set the blower switch to the highest setting, the engine idle returns to normal, the clicking disappears, and I don’t have to keep the motor revved up with the clutch in and the accelerator depressed. This is even though the AC/Htr. Blower switch doesn’t produce air anymore? Go figure, it’s a mystery to me. How in the heck does having a defective blower switch solve an engine idling problem? I am assuming if I also replace the switch and resistor and I get air and heat blowing again, the engine idle problem will disappear as well. Or is that a poor assumption, like most assumptions dealing with circuitry do?

davido

I have the same problem, with only the two highest fan speeds working. Whereabouts is the resistor located? I've got down as far as the switch mounting but can't see how to remove that without taking out the entire dash.
Hopefully the resistor is more accessible!
Car is a 91 RHD VZN130.

Thanks for any help.