I was poking around my engine bay trying to figure out a way to do the ISR mod, then I had an idea. I flipped the little elbow that connects to the throttle-body around and it seemed to line up better with the airbox, meaning I would only need a pipe to connect the two. This would be nice to use that stock pipe since it already has the little fitting for the vacuum line. SO, do you think using couplers to connect the airbox to a pipe, then another coupler from the pipe to the elbow would be a good way to go about it? I have attached pics as well. If this works it might be a nice easier way to do this mod. You idea's please!

This is the elbow the normal way round.
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Then this is it backwards
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So I thought that using a pipe like this would be able to connect them. I wonder how well a coupler would seal on that elbow??
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Oh, bye the way, do you think that a pipe like this would work well for this or do you think it will melt?
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That ABS pipe would work fine as long as it fits, it wont melt.

 

Putting a coupler on a coupler isn't going to work very well.

 

you're absolutly right, unless you use some sort of small length of pipe inside the inner coupling to support it, that may work, but that's just over complicating things...

if you go coupler on coupler, the inner one's going to colapse

just get a peice of pipe that slides inside the factory elbow there, and only only use a coupler at where that pipe meets the AFM

 

Most people opt for a super huge pipe. I used a 2" PVC pipe for mine because nobody out here sells the 2.5"-3" couplers(yes I looked everywhere lol). I keep thinking in the back of my mind that it's restricting airflow, but chances are it's not and changing to a 2.5" or 3" pipe isn't going to make a damn bit of a difference.

 

I'm sure you could squeeze a 3" coupler down with a clamp to fit a 2.5" tube... maybe

 

Most electrical supply shops (grainger, graybar, CED, Royal, etc.) carry 3" -> 2.5" reducing 'bells' in sched 40 and sometimes 80 gray PVC. You likely won't find one in ABS... unless you do a reducing bushing, which Home Depot may have in the plumbing section, but it is simply a thick ring that each pipe slips into / onto, and you might need a coupler to use it.

 

I thought about that afterwards, but by that time I had already cut open the couplers I bought from Autozone. The 3" side of the couplers were a bit larger than the throttle body and the AFM, but they clamped down pretty nice. I'm thinking a straight 3" coupler would have been better because I could have used 2.5" PVC instead.

BTW, I was a bit concerned with my PVC melting so I bought some insulation wrap from Home Depot and wrapped it up, then taped over the entire thing.

 

doesn't grainger only sell to companies?

I deal with them a LOT with my job; we have good discounts through the company

 

not sure. I've walked in and bought cleaning products and airbrush stuff before.
I know they do discount prices to companies who set up accounts though.

 

sorry to tell you but that is not a new isr idea. i did that a couple of months ago lol. its ugly but it works. used 3 inch diameter electrical pipe. the pipe has to have a little curve in it to work.

 

Thanks everyone for your input.

Ah that's what I was wondering. I will just get a smaller pipe, I was curious about that pipe since that's what I had lying around.

 

Damn, and I thought I was onto something but hey I might just have to steal your idea.

 

x2

 

Hey Cyberman, did you leave that other silencer box next to the airbox on? or did you cap it/rerun the vacuum line?

 

Just a quick update with what I did. I found an old intercooler pipe in my garage from a supra that had the perfect bend in it already!

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what year supra is that from? i have to get that now hha. did you have to drill holes in the pipe or are they there stock.

 

Next, how to make a snorkel?

 

I'm not positive but I think it is from a 1993-2002 model. The pipe you want is the long one with a bracket in the middle and curves at each end but it just happens to be that one of the bends is the perfect fit. Yes, I had to drill the two wholes (I used a 1/2'' drill bit and a 3/4'' drill bit) and then thread the fittings in using an epoxy and an o-ring. This way there are no bolts on the inside yet it is still airtight.

 

Haha how did you know?