See the LONGGGGGGGGGGGGGGG WIRE going to the ignitor with the green connector?? That one... There is another that goes from that cluster at the ignitor TO the Dizzy.... That is wired right on on mine on the ignitor side(no connector on that side)... Green connector at the Dizzy.

Lots of things can go wrong, including the Dizzy install. If the Dizzy goes in with the rotor pointing at 12 on the dot.... It SHOULD fall back to dead on, Cylinder 1... When you look in there, where the dizzy meets the CAM gear... You'll see a notch on the TOP of the dizzy gear(which is facing you), and it should be RIGHT before the CAM gear, counterclockwise. Again, I have a picture somewhere... But ALSO AGAIN... doesn't sound like your problem, having the dizzy off a tooth can be problematic for sure.. but I don't think it would keep it from starting, ya know?

 

Now I know what wire your talking about. It's hooked up. I slid the distributor in at twelve and it spun back counterclockwise.

 

Well, .... wish I could take a peek hands on, man.... It really is hard on line... But I'm also not the end all/be all of 22RE's, lol.... So while I know a bit, I'm HOPING someone with 'guru' status will stop in and help you 1., 2., 3., troubleshoot/P.O.E.! ya know?

 

I understand what ur saying. Hopefully one of the gurus will chime in and share their wisdom a lil bit.

 

Hopefully, you're digging through all the info I've posted, rereading some of it, then going forward the the COR testing, etc.(which I've also posted). Is your intake ground wire there?(goes on the bottom/left intake stud on mine.

 

I've read everything you said over and over again.

Well got it to get fuel finally. Through jumping the two terminals, also got it to run. Just very rough. Now I just gotta get it running right.

 

Well got it running finally!!! My dad helped me out some this last go around on setting the Timeing. Went back and reread some of what you said and went and set the Timeing and the distributor again and it fired right up!! I really appreciate all the help!

 

Glad to hear it's running. Chef is a guru so mind what he says.
Now, make sure you have the valves set too. Spec is 0.008" intake and 0.012" exhaust with the engine warmed up. If you set them to spec cold, it's probable they will be loose when warmed up. Cold, you can shoot towards 0.007 and 0.010-0.011 (loose with a 010 gauge and / tight with an 011) and be just about there.

 

WOO HOOO! That's great news, man! ^^^ haahahaha... GURU? Hardly... but thanks, man.. I just like to help with all the good stuff I've been learnin on here, ya know?

So, wow, ...what exactly was the 'sweet spot' for her? hahaha... Are you saying, "Pulled the dizzy, made sure it was on TDC-Compression stroke, install the dizzy at 12'o'clock pointing rotor... dropped back to Cyl 1 on the CAP and dimple in the dizzy drive gear RIGHT before the CAM drive gear, counter clockwise"..........that part? haha.

Really happy to see you stoked, man! Quite a feeling to not only get it going yourself... but to SAVE HUNDREDS OF BUX, EH? hehee. Say thanks alot to pops! lol.... Very cool of him.

 

THAT TOO!!! ^^^^ Don't skip any steps since you're getting so comfy in there, now, ya know? Leaving them too loose can lead to burning up valves, too tight isn't good either. Either thing messes with mechanical timing and premature correlation/relationship with the CAM/Adjusters/Valves opening and closing, etc., ya know? You can lose mileage, too, and power. These motors are pretty forgiving... But they CAN get loud/ticky! hahah... Also, valve adjustment can DEFINITELY effect cam wear.

BE NICE TO HER... she's a ticky lil bulletproof truck-heart... But she CAN take you on a gremlin hunt if you don't get her JUST right in all the 'adjustable spots', right? haha.

 

Well, loose valves aren't going to burn but they will affect performance and wear the cam and rockers out.

Gremlins?

There's ... a man on ... the wing.

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