So, just picked up my project, yes at 1am. Test drive it, perfrct, let it run the whole time I'm doing paper work, perfect...drive out of the parking lot, perfect... get half way home, starts ticking softly...by the time I'm home it's a highly notice tick/knock? Early stages I belive, seems like for a v6 it is falling on its face hard core, (my girlfriends rav 4 almost has more pick up) the is a vacuum leak, did a temporary fix that's working but still.... He justhad the engine rebuild 45k miles ago... andThe oil pressure is non existent, checked thefluid it's full, added some extra oil, nothing moved or changed and it makes a weird whistling noise at times when I'm driving. .. no idea what is gong on!! HELP!!

 

Did the gauge show oil pressure prior to this engine noise and performance problem..?

If it indeed lost oil pressure its recommended that you not operate the engine.

Some of those early model oil pressure gauges show poor/incorrect readings.

Either you were sold a lemon or this is a very unfortunate happening.

Video..?

A large intake leak will create a lean condition for the engine and "pinging" can occur with lean combustion under vehicle load.

Possible noise your hearing..?

Whistling noise kind of points to an intake leak.

Verify the intake hose between the Air Flow Meter and throttle plate is not damaged and or leaking.

Verify any other possible intake leaks.

Any other symptoms..?

More information on this matter.

Not much more we can speculate based on information given.

 

It hasn't show oil pressure ever from what I know. .. when I shut off the engine if I listen closely there is a very small hissing sound on the passenger side of the engine, I have yet to distinguish where it is coming from excatly though. ... when driving it whistles almost constantly but when idling it didn't whistle.... ticking hadn't gotten worse yet... it gets really loud at about 4 - 5k rpm... Sadly that's the only rpm that it shifts decently at with out bogging out in the next gear. ... can't do Hills to save it's life, I'm just at a total loss as to Whey it is. ... bent valve maybe? ?? Maybe it isn't running on all 6???

I don't want to start putting cash into things that I don't need to replace immediately that's the only reason I'm waiting to do anything till I figure it out

 

Its possible there is a valve train issue.

Hissing sound when the engine is shut off on the passenger side of the engine..?

Does this noise dissipate after time..?

Possible cooling system leak..?

Coolant level and condition..?

Engine oil condition..?

Was there proof that the engine was actually refurbished..?

Start with some engine health checks:

*Verify good engine vacuum.
*Verify good engine compression.
*Correct ignition timing.
*Condition of spark plugs/cables/distributor.
*Fuel system condition - filter/pump/hoses/lines/relays/injection.
*Timing belt condition/alignment.
*Air Flow Meter condition/specs/sticky air door?
*Throttle body assembly condition/specs.

 

If you actually have no oil pressure, the life-span of that rebuilt will be measured in minutes.

So let's assume you've just got a bad gauge. So suck it up, and get a mechanical gauge to check it. http://www.harborfreight.com/engine-...kit-98949.html

Heck, if you think the gauge is actually bad, just get an after-market gauge which you will later install as part of your project. http://www.ebay.com/sch/Oil-Pressure...-/33676/i.html

 

I think one of these Is the vid

 

None of those seem to be videos just pictures.

 

Cap. ... it don't think it will let me load one then:/ does anyone have any other specific questions?

Last night I ended up buying a new battery which helped a little and pouring 2 bottles of b 12 in there before putting gas in it. .. Nothing changes. .. went to oreilly and they said they couldn't hook it to a computer without aCEL being on

 

45k on an unknown quality 3.0...
Hope you got a good deal.
How many miles total?

You can upload a video to youtube or photobucket

 

257k alot but I was hoping to do a 1j swap into it later


New symptom!!

When down shifting (to gain speed) on interstate or on a hill it instantly drops 5 mph no matter how fast I shift and steadily drops another 5 or 6 mph after that
And I've been driving a stick for like 3 years now so it's not like I'm not doing it fast lol

 

why not take it to a competent mechanic and have it looked at? for $150-200 they should be able to figure out your running and or oil pressure issue before you start blindly throwing more parts/snake oils at it. from there you can attempt to do the repair yourself, or have the pro's knock it out for you.

 

Hi
have been have probs with my v6 (check just fitted flamethrower injectors by chefdave) improved mine by replacing vacuum hoses on egr and throttle body and replacing 4 hose clips from servo to engine. total cost £8.

 

Oldblue won't it be more than that? I don't know to many mechanics that won't charge an arm and a leg

 

Like i said, any COMPETENT mechanic should be able to do a oil pressure test, pull codes, and smoke the engine for any vacuum leaks in under an hour, though they may charge an hour and a half or even two hours for the tests. have them check the oil pressure first, if its 0, the engine is done no need to do any further testing.

 

I'll get that done for sure

 

If you have no oil pressure you would know it. My old 94 had issues with sludge in the oil pan. Completely clogged the screen and coated the inside of pan. The noise it made when driving down the road was horrendous.

 

Also let the parts store know that our trucks don't always show codes. The light might come on once then shut off. The code is sill stored. If they told you that it was probably a new guy. Autozone and orileys in Washington state have run y codes on my Chevy and Toyota with out the light showing. And both times they found codes. Might be you just need to talk to a different guy or find a different store. Tell them you light came on driving home from work then shut off like 5 minutes ago. You drove straight there. Many many cars and trucks will only have the light stay on if its a bad problem. Heck my tps was bad and I never saw the light come on. But it had a code. Also on a 95 4runner does it have the diagnostic port next to the fuse block under the hood. If so can you jump the terminals and read the codes that way? Works on 3rd gen pickups. No sure if it works on same body 4runners. Hope this helps.

 

Status update for you guys

Just changed the fuel filter and gave so much more pep in its step


Think that the problem with the 3slug:p

The ticking I think is a belt possibly...hasn't gotten worse


Thanks for all the help guys!! I'll be putting up up a build thread soon within the next few days!

 

Gonna start my build thread now in a few min lol

 

Did you resolve your oil pressure issues??