could you not put the nut on the inside and start the bolt? I am just asking cause I dont know.

 

maybe it is a case of...the bolts are able to slide back and forth enough now that you can put the CV in last???? still just throwing out ideas...and looking for answers.

 

i just replace a cv and punching them out would definitely help. man those things are really in there. i was wailin on it for a few minutes till i realize how hard you have to hit em. well hopefully i don't have to replace one again for a while. they're not too much of a pain just really messy.

ohh for the speedo...i actually had my speedo gear replaced about a yr ago. (man that really sucked cause the dealer took like 2 weeks to put it in; but i did get to drive a 2005 tacoma as a loaner. : ) i want one) anyways, the speedo gear is actually at the very rear of the tranny i believe. it would make sense because at the end of the tranny, it's getting the drive shaft rpms which will give you your speed.

 

scott we need to go wheelin when i get back.

 

I was just reading all this and had to take a ride to check my speedo/ tack at 70mph.
At 70mph my tack is just over 3k. Like maybe 3050rpm.
I also borrowed a friends GPS awhile back and according to that my speedo was only about 1mph off. Ran a couple of weeks ago on the highway with 4 other trucks and the ones with stock set-ups were running about the same speed as far as we could tell.
I have 33 TSL's with what I thought were 4:56's according to my door tag which says "G254". 3.0 5spd.
I thought mine does pretty good on hills etc. being the 3.0. It does take a little getting it rolling sometimes but once I'm up to like 70mph or more she holds her own pretty good.

 

I think you've got it, Buck. The bolts remain captured by the diff housing but can slide around an extra half inch.

 

I don't think the bolts are "captured" anymore....I think you can install the carrier with the bolts on the floor....then push the CV in place and insert 1 bolt at a time while rotating the CV. Sbrut95 would know this.

 

On one of my links, I can see from the pics that there is plenty of clearance to feed the bolts in last.


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The main advantage is that you can replace a CV without taking apart your front end, you just take apart the hub to remove the C-clip, and then unblot it from the diff and slide it out through the lower control arm. Makes CV replcement a breeze. Theoretically, if you do this to two of the studs its enough to make these trail (or garage) repairs possible.

 

Next question for me is.....is it possible to beat them out and drill out the hole while still on the truck? or do you just wait untill you have to drop the diff to replace a CV and then do the deed?

 

I think you can.....by just knocking off the splines on the bolts. A handgrinder with a sanding disc would do nicely.

 

So much easier to just replace the studs with bolts/nuts. No drilling/filing required, and it makes the CV change A LOT easier.

Size is M12-1.25x30mm IIRC. Get extras, cuz that bolt size is also used for the brake calipers, front diff mounts, and tranny crossmember. I got metric grade 10.9 just to be safe.

 

All I know is that if ZUK hadnt popped those bolts out for me, I would have spent all day trying to get that front diff in, in fact, I dont even know how i would have done it because I had a hard enough time trying to keep that heavy thing in place. Having those bolts removed is a great feature! \\

Chris(Tofer), Im moving to Oregon in a few weeks. If you're ever in the neighborhood, look me up. Ill be in eugene area.


ZUK- was a long wait for all the stuff but in the end it was worth it. Did a great job on it, thanks again.