Kevmarti75

I ordered a new neutral safety switch and what is pictured below is the only option I can find for my a340 auto. The connectors are not the same. The one on the runner doesn't have the big grey connection on top. The one on my runner has the wire coming from the round port that this one has capped off. Anyone have any suggestions? I have searched every parts store and they all have this one..

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

Try your local dealer or online.

Was there any directions with this one ??

It very well could be universal and need to be wired for each year as needed

scope103

Could your old one have been modified? Where do the wires go once they leave your old switch? A connector of some sort? If they end up in wire crimps, you know it's not factory.

The manual http://web.archive.org/web/201408160...37parkneut.pdf shows testing the switch through the connector.

And while I too would usually recommend getting the part from a dealer, it's pretty pricey, even online: http://parts.lakelandtoyota.com/show...modelYear=1994

Kevmarti75

This is a bad pic but it's the best I could do. This is what's on my runner now, if you look at the upper left corner of the pic that's the connection for the neutral switch. It's a small square

Kevmarti75

This is a bad pic but it's the best I could do. This is what's on my runner now, if you look at the upper left corner of the pic that's the connection for the neutral switch. It's a small square

Kevmarti75

Okay check this out! While was digging the web about this, I found what appears to be a service manual page someone scanned. It says the part I'm looking for is called Transfer Positon Switch, and that has been discontinued. I can't find a replacement offer?..

scope103

Sigh ...

First, tell us what year/make/model/engine/transmission/body you have. There are at least three different "A340" automatic transmissions (A340D, E, F, and H) used on a 4runner. I gave you the link to the EPC, but I picked out a '94 because that's what I have.

Second, WHY did you think you needed a replacement neutral/start switch? It might help someone figure out if you need that, or the "Switch, Transfer Indicator."

Third, if you found something by "digging the web," feel free to include the link. The EPC shows no "Transfer Position Switch," (there is a "Switch, Transfer Indicator, and it looks nothing like your photo). Maybe someone can figure out what you're looking at.

Fourth, take a decent picture of what you are asking about. Remove the connector, photograph it, AND LIST THE COLORS OF THE WIRES (your photo will be next-to-worthless for wire colors).

YotaTech is a great resource for help. It's even a prolific source of guesses. Which do you want to get?

Kevmarti75

1995 3.0 auto 4x4 A340h.
Reason I'm replacing is because the runner with automatically shift into 4wheel drive on its own after it have been driven for a long period (approx 1hr). It doesn't do it when I'm driving only after I stop for example for gas turn the runner off, get back in start it up and put in drive then CLUNK... It has engaged the trans case. Now I have installed manual hubs and removed the Viacom lines and blocked off the add solenoids. The only way to get it to disengage is to let is sit for and hour or so. Sometimes it will fix itself if you turn off the runner and start it back but that's rare. I have also disconnected the ADD relay.

I have posted my question about the issue on here and haven't gotten a response other than someone saying " that's impossible".. So with that and being I need my runner working I have assumed it was an electrical issue since I had the tranny rebuilt. The only thing I could do since no mechanic in my area knows why it's doing it, I started replacing every sensor related to the trans and transfer case in desperation.

As far as the pics that's the best pic I can get at the monument. I can tell you the connector on my runner is identical to the Tranfer Position Switch diagram that I'm attaching below.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

I am more confused then before .

Much better to start replacing then doing any trouble shooting

Are you sure it was engaging the ADD system and not something grounding back through the circuit .

Causing it to light up .

I am sorry I missed your original post This sounds like a very interesting problem

If you were close I would be glad to figure this out

I have not learned to drive a Automatic Transmission so I am not allowed to own one. So I can`t say for sure if what your saying is possible

Kevmarti75

LOL I'm at the point where I will ship it to you... Honestly I'm not good with electrical crap.. I'm a mechanical person, but now that I found the information I attached above I can try to test this "switch" if the above info is good.

For some reason I feel it may be heat related cause it only does it when the the runner has been driven for a while.. I'm not sure what the Trans temp is yet. I ordered a trans temp gauge but it hasn't come in. But the trans light used to come on after running down the hwy so I added a Trans cooler with a fan on it cause I like over kill... Needless to say no more over heating according to the idiot light on the dash. But it's still a guess. I'll test the "switch" as prescribed as according to the info below. Any input you have I will be more than appreciative

Also do you know where this Transfer pressure switch is that is stated in the test diagram attached.

LolaL

Ooh, this sounds like an interesting problem...AND I'm in automatic transmission class right now! Lots of questions for more information though, so please try to answer them.

Did the shop you took your trans to get overhauled at say anything about what they saw once everything was apart (i.e. did the overheating kill anything?) What was the original cause of the overheating? Do those trans have an air cooler for the trans fluid? (looks like a mini condenser/radiator/heater core). Did that get clogged up so your fluid overheated? Did you have any shifting issues before the trans was overhauled?

Can you confirm the front propeller shaft IS spinning after you hear the 'clunk' (indicating the transfer has engaged)? And it only clunks after you shut off the vehicle, then turn it back on, never when you're driving along?

When you converted to the manual locking hubs, what all did you have to do with the ADD system- I'm not familiar with the conversion process (is it electriconically or vacuum controlled?)

I'm trying to look up some more information about the trans and transfer in terms of what the ECU sees to engage/disengage to figure out if it's your ECU being confused.

any shifting problems otherwise post-overhaul?

did you try a hard reset of the ECU (disconnect the battery for ~ 10 minutes)?

I've got an A340H at home, so I'll crawl under there with a camera and repair manual to see if I can find out anything else.

Kevmarti75

The trans shop only said the bands were shot, it had 195k miles on it. As far as shifting pre rebuild just started slipping. The Transfer case started acting up pre-rebuild. The Trans is cooled through the Bottom of the radiator.
Yes you can hear the whine of the trans case and the Runner will only go about 35 mph. Now the hubs are now manual so the wheels don't engage but the front drive shaft spins.
The ADD system I'd Vaccuum and electronic for what I can tell. I started testing the components that are in the above diagrams and so far everything is checking out. Except I can't find the Transfer pressure switch. I've checked for exposed wires to make sure there were not grounded out.
After the rebuild the transmission runs perfect...

The fluid in the trans case isn't burnt or dark it looks new.
The linkage is fine I can shift into 4 low and high and back to 2 high and it works perfect.. Like I said it only does it after you drive for a time.. And it fixes itself after it sits for an hour or so..
That's why I still feel in my gut it's heat related. I'm thanking of adding an additional cooler for the transfer case along with the one that came from the factory.

Any help would be awesome. I'm almost at the point of getting rid of it and I really don't want too...

LolaL

stupid question, but fluid level and type is all good, right?
gonna check on the transfer pressure switch later and hopefully get you a picture tomorrow morning if I can find mine :p

Kevmarti75

Yeah fluid level is good.

I need to find what tells the tranfercase to engage lol. Man I hate electronic controlled crap haha

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

Do you have any other electrical things not working ??

look for your switches on the transfer case

Like I said I am not a auto transmission person never having learned to drive one.

If when things get warm some how your getting voltage telling the transfer case to engage

Unless you have physical damage about the only places will be the ECM a problem when things get hot !!

You have removed the ADD relay and it is now out of the system ??

Kevmarti75

Everything else works perfectly. The only other thing I see that I haven't replaced or tested is I believe to be a speed sensor

I have removed the ADD relay

LolaL

I crawled under my truck, but then realized that I don't have ADD, so I don't actually have a transfer pressure switch, so I can't help you out there! But in other news, the component picture for your vintage 4runner doesn't show a transfer pressure switch. (!)



I looked up the A340H innards in the repair manual-there aren't any brake bands, only multi-plate brakes and clutches. Either way, if it was slipping those friction discs were probably gone/looking slim.

here's a photo of that ATF cooler underneath my truck I was talking about. I don't know if they got rid of that cooler and just made direct lines to the radiator. I'm pretty sure I've got trans cooler lines to the radiator and this air cooler for the transfer chain case fluid. Feel free to correct me if I'm wrong! If you've got one, you'll want to make sure the fins are clear and clean for good air cooling.



this page from the repair manual ought to be really helpful >_<


Have you tried the manual shifting tests outlined in the repair manual? You should be able to disconnect the solenoid wire, so you'll be able to definitively determine if the shifting issue is mechanical or electrical. Was the transfer overhauled as well (did you bring up the issue when you took the trans in?)

If you've concluded it's electrical, it sounds like solenoid 4 is somehow being applied once the fluid heats up (your max speed is 35mph... 4LO, right?)


Double check your neutral position and transfer position switches proper installation (they have a correct mounting alignment).

Looking at the electronic control of the transmission and transfer, it seems like the only inputs are from the shift lever.



if that solenoid is somehow activating once warm (not sure why it would do that?)
you can test it at the ECU


hope that helps and lemme know what you find out!

scope103

First, I was wrong about the "position" switch; the "indicator" switch is on the front diff and turns on the 4wd light. Sorry. The transfer position switch (if you care) is 84223-35010. And it's pricey.

But yours doesn't sound like an electronic problem to me. First, let me be sure I've got the symptoms right. How do you know it has engaged the transfer case? If you have manual hubs, or just disabled the ADD, then all that should happen (in H4) is that the front drive shaft turns. I'm not sure you could perceive that sitting in the driver's seat.

Or is it "down shifting" into L4? You'd notice that; you'd be moving a lot slower even though the front wheels aren't engaged.

So far as I can tell http://web.archive.org/web/201408160...28operatio.pdf in H2 the C4 direct clutch is open, and the front drive shaft does not turn. "The transfer case is not engaged." There is only one solenoid (no. 4) in the transfer case, and it is activated (so far as I can tell) when you shift from H4 to L4. The solenoid is powered from the ECM, which gets its command when the transfer position switch grounds the "L4" line to the ECM.

So the ECM does NOT have anything to do with shifting from H2 to H4; the shift linkage does that. (the linkage may control a hydraulic valve to operate C4, but there is no electronics involved).

So IF what is happening to you is the transfer case goes from H2 to H4, it has nothing to do with the Transfer Position Switch, the ECM, the ADD, the Hubs .... (And I'm not sure how you could tell H2 to H4 anyway, if you have manual hubs.) In that case, I'd check the linkage; if misadjusted it's just bumping back and forth between H2 and H4.

But IF what is happening is the transfer case is going from somewhere to L2, that could be an electronics problem. If you have an electronics problem you start with the diagnostic system. http://web.archive.org/web/201408161...31diagnosi.pdf

Kevmarti75

First off thanks to all of you for this info... I wish I had it a year ago when I started fighting this...

So yes it is going into 4low reason I know is a couple things 1 I laid under it and let my wife drive ( yep I'm that desperate)
2 when i shift to D and it acts up it lunges hard
3 it will only do maybe 30 to 35 mph at high Rpm and you can hear the whine as when I myself put it 4L. I sure it's in low cause I've done 40-45 in 4H easy

So I tested the Transfer case position switch as I stated above using the info I got which I listed earlier and it tested fine.

To make sure I understand you, you said there is a shift solenoid in the transfer case like the 3 that are in the transmission correct?

I will try to do the tests that both you you have provided.

Guys can can't express how much I appreciate ya'll help

scope103

Okay! It sounds like either C3 or B4 are operating, and both of these are controlled by solenoid #4, which is controlled by 12v on S4 of the ECM, which is controlled by ground on L4 from the Transfer position switch. Which is the culprit? Start with the manual shifting test: http://web.archive.org/web/201408161...33manualsh.pdf The solenoids are ALL disconnected, so if it still bumps into L4 you have a mechanical problem with the transfer case (like the transfer ring gear is jamming). If that clears up your L4 problem, plug the solenoids back in but disconnect the Transfer Position Switch. If that clears it up, you have an intermittent switch (the replacement is north of $200, but a lot cheaper than a rebuilt transfer case). If that doesn't clear it up, you've got a wire shorting to ground on the L4 wire from the position switch to the ECU.

We hope. While very, very rare, you could have an ECU problem. If that's the case, I'd disconnect solenoid #4 inside the transfer case, and live without L4.

Good luck!