Hey Hertz, sorry you've having so many problems. Just remember, you did good replacing the filter with a new Pump(should always do them both).

Ok, now I'm a lil tripped out. Maybe your model is different, but I'm a lil confused. See, in the second picture, next to the fuse box? You should have a lil diagnostic port that looks like that lil black box coming from your coil. Inside the lid of the diagnostic port there is a label for what every prong/inlet is for. You have one to test the O2 sensor, the timing(which is, I believe, the same for checking the codes). See that drawn pic in the link I sent you? That top illustration is the one you will be checking from. The Previous owner may have moved it, not sure, or maybe it's in a different location from my 87....but I doubt it. I'll find a pic and bring it over here, ok? BBinafew, Hertz, ...Hang in there.

 

Ok, see, by my fuse box behind the battery, ....there is a lil diagnostic port just behind it. Sorry, i'm trying to find a better, close up pic. But you can 'view pic' and zoom it or something for now.

 

In my Chiltons it says that a "diagnostic connector" (what your describing) would be on the passenger side, or if that is not the case a "check connector" will be found on the drivers side. Since I have nothing on the passenger side I am guessing it is one of those connectors in the 1st photo. The illistration they give is not very good, and I can find no identifying marks on or in the connectors. By the way thanks a bunch Chefyota for helping me..you rock!

 

Yeah I see it. Same thing it shows in the Chiltons. I am guessing I am looking for the check connector on the other side. 86 must of been a little different.

 

There is a closer pic. I'll keep looking. But, it's that lil flip-top black box about the size of a, oh, I don't know, .... 1" by 2"-max. It's mounted right to the bracket that holds up the Fuse box(I think, I'd have to go out and look and I can't right now). See if you can find that thing anywhere else....if it's been moved, etc.

 

86 and 87 have different placement of the diagnostic port.

Your 87 has it behind the battery

His 86 has it next to the power steering "plugged" into the drivers inner fender.

In the picture provided I can clearly see it plugged in. It is the 2 wire smaller OOPS YELLOW plug on the RIGHT in the 1st picture.

 

Thanks TWreck, .....

I just couldn't remember any more. It's been 8 years since I sold that 86. Anyway, THERE YOU GO, HERTZ! Get that paper clip out and geta testin! lol.

BTW TW,.....that's some carnage in your Avatar....I had to look away! hehee.

 

Hey Trainwreck,

....Nvm, I see it now. Got that Hertz? Two wired OOOPS yeller plugged into the Fenderwall

 

Cool thanks trainwreck, I go check it out..later for now a heavy storm is hitting us.

 

Stay safe and dry! Wishin you will on your engine diagnosis!

Mark

 

closer.

 

Hey Teuf, ....

I think TrainWreck cleared up that he has that yellow plug/only diagnostic set up on the driver-fenderwall. Two prongs. I would assume that's for timing check and diagnostic check, ...but that's only an assumption, lol.

 

What is that little weird almost rectangle plug for? why is it circled, and why is it jumpered?


The diagnostic port for 86 is pictured in that pic as the yellow 2 (two) wire plug that is "pluged" into the inner fender. Shown in the upper left circled in Aqua.

 

temp sending unit. check connector is usually capped it looks like every other green plug. it has three prongs inside. run the truck connect two prongs and the idle will drop and you can read the codes.

 

Got the codes, a 4 and an 11. The 4 is a no brainer and I plan get get a new thermo sensor today. I am stumped on the 11 which is "Throttle switch (IDL) point in the Throttle Position Sensor...I thought only carborated motors had the TPS?? dont know for sure...goes on to say "TPS is off during diagnostic check-defective TPS circut, TPS or Electronic Control Unit ECU. My plan is to get the Thermo Sensor install it, reset the codes and try again. i went out again last night and looked over the motor really good. i can find no loose connections etc. Again it drove GREAT for about 100 miles after the rebuild. Got to thinking could a bad o2 sensor cause this sort of a problem?

 

Toyota wants $99.37 for a thermo sensor.....OUCH!!! I am going to try and beat the bushes and see what I can come up with...anyone have suggestions?

 

Hey Hertz, .........

Well, it's hard to say on the CTS, ...that's one YOU CAN get at Napa for around 35$ out the door. However, I will always recommend Denso Sensors, ...the aftermarket ones CAN WORK, but quite often they just don't work with the ECU like the Denso or Aisin/Factory ones do. Just remember, once you replace that, as pricey as it is, ...that's good for another 150K most often, ....AT LEAST! I know guys with 300k and have never replaced them. Totally up to you on which way you want to go.... I had a LIL problem with my Napa unit, ....(I think it's reading was a slightly diff. temp than the Denso, can't be sure....but IT DID work better than my broken one, lol).

IDL is CRUCIAL for the operation of the TPS, and it's on ALL EFI motors. Carbed 22r's, I believe(wait for confirmation) have a "TP"(Throttle Positioner). Anyway, I just wanna make sure you've cleared the codes and then restarted it, let it get to oper. temp, then kill it and check for codes again? Just because, if you'd removed the TPS at any time before clearing the codes then it's going to still be stored in there. Sorry if I've missed you saying you cleared them. If you have, then I would think that either that portion of the coil in the TPS is busted, or the wiring in the harness is having an issue, or the ECU is having an issue.

First, just clarify if you'd cleared the codes before checking them?

 

I found a thermo sensor at a local junk yard (goldmine) for $15. Replaced it this evening and then cleared the codes. I am still getting an 11 (which is "Throttle switch (IDL) point in the Throttle Position Sensor "TPS is off during diagnostic check-defective TPS circut, TPS or Electronic Control Unit ECU.) But now the check engine light is off and it starts a whole lot easier!!!, but I still have the rev problem...but chef yes I have cleared the codes, now what? P.S. The junk yard/goldmine I went to this morning has tons (literally) of 80's toyotas. I about fell over when I saw the place...

 

Sweet, Hertz! Great find!

Could be an ECU or wiring issue; But FIRST, you need to check the TPS itself. This is in the Haynes/Chiltons and will give you the size feeler gauges you'll need to insert between the throttle plate/stop screw. This is by far one of the best links for the TPS check/adjustment....
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/TPS/index.shtml ....... His name is Roger and he's a member on this site. GREAT write up! If you find ANYTHING fairly 'off' when checking the TPS, you could have a problem there and it will need adjustment or replacement if you can't adjust it into specs.(If so, I will walk you through removing the Throttle body if you need it--how to block off the coolant hoses, etc.)And; Well, I would PERSONALLY check the ECU to see if it's reading the TPS at all. On my troubleshooting thread, (In yellow, below), I believe a good guy put up a link to the FSM for "ECU-TPS prongs", and it should be in your manual as well. I think it's in my Haynes when I rechecked to look deeper one time.
Becauseeee, ...... it might be something in the wiring, somewhere in the harness between the TPS and the cluster(horseshoe shaped wiring wad that runs to firewall....Sorry if you know all this, just being thorough). Somehow, your ECU is not getting an IDL Signal from the TPS. As mentioned in Rogers GREAT write up, ...."The only real "adjustment" needed is for the IDL-E2 setting, the rest of the checks are just to verify proper operation."..... so as you can see, the IDL prong relaying a constant message to the ECU when it's applicable?>>....it's CRUCIAL.

I have to finish cleaning up, I've been SLAMMED with 15+ hours work a day, ....and it's pretty warm, so it's a lil extra taxing for a 40's guy like myself, hahaha. So, let me finish up and get some rest and I'll be back with those ECU testing pages if you can't find them. BUT LOOK in the manual, they should be in there, ok Hertz?

I recently replaced my ECU because it was bad, ...but from what I've been told by many guru's...THAT'S RARE, ....and more often, it's a pinched connection in the harness or even more often, THE TPS is bad or just simply out of adjustment. If you've had it off, for any reason, or cleaned the throttle body with it still attached...the TPS could just have taken a dump. Lots of variables, but they're not too difficult to rule out through a P.O.E. . Check the readings of the TPS with the throttle body on, first. It will tell you if you have good resistance and/or if it's off. IF the readings of the TPS come out 'ok', then you move to the next variable.

 

PS> IF you end up needing a TPS, and you're strapped a bit?...Just head to the JY with the Multimeter, some Feeler Gauges, and test some Throttle Bodies on the truck or on a bench when they pull it out of a bin(Most Yards will just sell the TBody with the TPS still attached, because they know they are adjusted to FINITE specs, ...check?) Most yards will charge you about 75$ for the Throttle Body with the TPS still on. Make sure you BRING THE MANUAL, it has tests for checking if the throttle plate inside has too much play, etc. First see where you're at with the TPS you have, of course....>Just sharing ideas if it comes to that. I learned as I've gone.....Trial and err, ya know? lol.