Need Help! Missfiring at 2k+ rpm's (Noob)
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Need Help! Missfiring at 2k+ rpm's (Noob)
I just got this.
She is a 93 with 22re with 33x12.50 with 4.88's and IFS
I am not new to toyotas (Cars) but am new to 22re's and trucks.
She has had alot of work done to her ( I have all reciepts). She has no CEL.
When I got her
-reciepts for eng rebuild 30k ago
-reciepts for downey cam (no cam card)
-reciepts for LCE cam gear
-reciepts for knock sensor, temp sensor, o2 sensor and I think one more
-the IAC valve was bypassed/ looped
-the (ignition) timing was at 14deg advanced
-the (cam) timing was at 10deg retarted
-the plugs looked tan in color
-the screw on the top of the TB was turned all the way IN
-once warm it would idle at 2k rpms and begin to "cycle" the IAC valve...."bruuuumb, buh, bruuuuuumb, buh"
-I also notice the PO used to have some sort of "venom" controller module or somthing hooked up?
In the past 2 weeks I have.
-Hooked up the IAC valve
-Set the (cam) timing to 0 deg
-Set the (ignition) timing to 5, then 7deg advanced
-It was a tooth off, fixed that
-replaced plugs and wires and set gap (no reason really)
-turned the screw on the top of the TB most the way out ( to make it run the best)
-tested for vacuum leaks
-set valve lash to spec
-Fixed large hole in muffler
-Tried to set the TB to as closed as possible and make sure the tps is right ( I noticed the PO installed the allen bolts on a new TB) BUT I dont think I am checking it correctly
-Results-
-It starts and runs fine, you would never know it was missfiring.
-Idles smooth
-Revs alot slower than before but hay, it was 14btdc.
-I got 250 miles to a full tank (dont know what im supposed to get)
-Plugs look tan in color
-If I am in neutral and rev it up above 1500 rpms, it missfires. Happens worse around 3000 rpms.
-If I rev it up with the TB and am under the hood and rev the eng to 3k rpms, when i let go and it falls back to around 1k rpms the afm makes a funny noise, nothing like any afm ive ever heard?
-Things I dont know or am having trouble finding-
-information about downey cams (so I can index it, also dont know if it would cause missfiring like this)
-if downey has any advance already added in to there cam/ should I add some cam timing to increase acceleration and lower top speed.
-how much I should advance the cam timing for optimum performance/acceleration
-if the TB stop screw is set correctly/ how to set it correctly
-if the tps is set correctly
-how to test the tps ( ive taken the printed pages of the walk through out there just having a hell of a time with it. Im pretty sure the pins I test for "closed throttle" are within spec but I dont have the correct feeler guages and or know where to measure from to perform the rest of the tps testing)
Playing with new toys makes me feel like such a noob. Any suggestions would help.
Thanks in advance
Jess
She is a 93 with 22re with 33x12.50 with 4.88's and IFS
I am not new to toyotas (Cars) but am new to 22re's and trucks.
She has had alot of work done to her ( I have all reciepts). She has no CEL.
When I got her
-reciepts for eng rebuild 30k ago
-reciepts for downey cam (no cam card)
-reciepts for LCE cam gear
-reciepts for knock sensor, temp sensor, o2 sensor and I think one more
-the IAC valve was bypassed/ looped
-the (ignition) timing was at 14deg advanced
-the (cam) timing was at 10deg retarted
-the plugs looked tan in color
-the screw on the top of the TB was turned all the way IN
-once warm it would idle at 2k rpms and begin to "cycle" the IAC valve...."bruuuumb, buh, bruuuuuumb, buh"
-I also notice the PO used to have some sort of "venom" controller module or somthing hooked up?
In the past 2 weeks I have.
-Hooked up the IAC valve
-Set the (cam) timing to 0 deg
-Set the (ignition) timing to 5, then 7deg advanced
-It was a tooth off, fixed that
-replaced plugs and wires and set gap (no reason really)
-turned the screw on the top of the TB most the way out ( to make it run the best)
-tested for vacuum leaks
-set valve lash to spec
-Fixed large hole in muffler
-Tried to set the TB to as closed as possible and make sure the tps is right ( I noticed the PO installed the allen bolts on a new TB) BUT I dont think I am checking it correctly
-Results-
-It starts and runs fine, you would never know it was missfiring.
-Idles smooth
-Revs alot slower than before but hay, it was 14btdc.
-I got 250 miles to a full tank (dont know what im supposed to get)
-Plugs look tan in color
-If I am in neutral and rev it up above 1500 rpms, it missfires. Happens worse around 3000 rpms.
-If I rev it up with the TB and am under the hood and rev the eng to 3k rpms, when i let go and it falls back to around 1k rpms the afm makes a funny noise, nothing like any afm ive ever heard?
-Things I dont know or am having trouble finding-
-information about downey cams (so I can index it, also dont know if it would cause missfiring like this)
-if downey has any advance already added in to there cam/ should I add some cam timing to increase acceleration and lower top speed.
-how much I should advance the cam timing for optimum performance/acceleration
-if the TB stop screw is set correctly/ how to set it correctly
-if the tps is set correctly
-how to test the tps ( ive taken the printed pages of the walk through out there just having a hell of a time with it. Im pretty sure the pins I test for "closed throttle" are within spec but I dont have the correct feeler guages and or know where to measure from to perform the rest of the tps testing)
Playing with new toys makes me feel like such a noob. Any suggestions would help.
Thanks in advance
Jess
Last edited by Slideshow86; 10-26-2009 at 06:05 PM.
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I have put a couple thousand miles on it soo far and it runs just fine. I hasent once missed under load. Only time its done anything different is if I am wheeling a bit it will start to missfire a little while at idle (with out revving it) and then go away. Other wise it runs and idles just fine, only miss fires if I rev it up and hold it at any specific rpm when its sitting still/ not moving.
Last edited by Slideshow86; 09-21-2009 at 07:50 PM.
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Can't say much but since you did say that if you rev the engine up while pokin' yer head under the hood, you can hear the afm make noises... so maybe you've got a leak between the tb and the afm?
As for the TPS, without getting too specific, if you put the jumper in to the diagnostic plug as if you were going to set the timing or pull codes, but do so with the engine running, the idle speed should noticibly change. If it doesn't, then you may need to fiddle with the jumper (to make sure you have it inserted well enough) or adjust / replace the TPS, or at least check the wiring.
Oh... have you tried checking for any trouble codes?
As for the TPS, without getting too specific, if you put the jumper in to the diagnostic plug as if you were going to set the timing or pull codes, but do so with the engine running, the idle speed should noticibly change. If it doesn't, then you may need to fiddle with the jumper (to make sure you have it inserted well enough) or adjust / replace the TPS, or at least check the wiring.
Oh... have you tried checking for any trouble codes?
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Can't say much but since you did say that if you rev the engine up while pokin' yer head under the hood, you can hear the afm make noises... so maybe you've got a leak between the tb and the afm?
I was thinking this may be the issue but I figured if it was a true vaccum leak it would run really poorly all the time. Either way, I just signed on to look for a walk through on some sort of aftermarket piping from the afm to the TB
As for the TPS, without getting too specific, if you put the jumper in to the diagnostic plug as if you were going to set the timing or pull codes, but do so with the engine running, the idle speed should noticibly change. If it doesn't, then you may need to fiddle with the jumper (to make sure you have it inserted well enough) or adjust / replace the TPS, or at least check the wiring.
Jumping T and E in the Diagnostic plug lowers the idle speed every time. Works like a champ.
Oh... have you tried checking for any trouble codes?
Sorry, somewhere in the post it says there is no CEL and there are no codes when I tested it.
Thanks!
I was thinking this may be the issue but I figured if it was a true vaccum leak it would run really poorly all the time. Either way, I just signed on to look for a walk through on some sort of aftermarket piping from the afm to the TB
As for the TPS, without getting too specific, if you put the jumper in to the diagnostic plug as if you were going to set the timing or pull codes, but do so with the engine running, the idle speed should noticibly change. If it doesn't, then you may need to fiddle with the jumper (to make sure you have it inserted well enough) or adjust / replace the TPS, or at least check the wiring.
Jumping T and E in the Diagnostic plug lowers the idle speed every time. Works like a champ.
Oh... have you tried checking for any trouble codes?
Sorry, somewhere in the post it says there is no CEL and there are no codes when I tested it.
Thanks!
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...............One of my friends was following me for an hour on the freeway and he said I smelled really rich?
Im going to check the plugs but that would only tell me "if" not "why".....
What am I missing here??
Im going to check the plugs but that would only tell me "if" not "why".....
What am I missing here??
#6
rich could be intake leak (in said hose between afm and tb) also o2 sensor is a possibility. those venoms have the possibility of cooking an 02 sensor, at least ive heard on other forums for other vehicles
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"rich could be intake leak (in said hose between afm and tb)"
I found this. It had some tape on it and I cant tell if it was leaking or not.
Either way I didnt want to chance it. I am limited to my small town today so I cant get enough pipe to make it all the way across and this was the best "Schmucks" has. Atleast I know that nothing is leaking in the intake now.
"also o2 sensor is a possibility. those venoms have the possibility of cooking an 02 sensor, at least ive heard on other forums for other vehicles"
I know the o2 sensor had been replaced. I dont have reciepts for the purchase of the Venom controler so I dont know if it was before or after the o2 sensor.
Here is the o2 sensor, Its OEM btw.... but I dont know if it looks good or not?
-TODAYS PROGRESS-
Had my septic show signs of a back up so I took the day off while there fixing stuff.
So far I have
-pulled and cleaned the (really clean already) TB
-Cleaned some of the intake manifold
-Cleaned the MAF
-Made sure there was no intake leaks
I came across this plug too, am I missing somthing?
I also noticed this piece is missing a screw.
While cleaning the MAF out I noticed this sticker, Is this a standard sticker they send you with a K&N filter or is there more to it?
I called around looking for another MAF but the only place that said they "may" have it wants $75 if they do. I am broke so I took a video to see what you guys think.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xqW5T...e=channel_page
So far there has been ZERO change (it still misses). We will get to the bottom of it though......
Thanks in advance!!!!!
I found this. It had some tape on it and I cant tell if it was leaking or not.
Either way I didnt want to chance it. I am limited to my small town today so I cant get enough pipe to make it all the way across and this was the best "Schmucks" has. Atleast I know that nothing is leaking in the intake now.
"also o2 sensor is a possibility. those venoms have the possibility of cooking an 02 sensor, at least ive heard on other forums for other vehicles"
I know the o2 sensor had been replaced. I dont have reciepts for the purchase of the Venom controler so I dont know if it was before or after the o2 sensor.
Here is the o2 sensor, Its OEM btw.... but I dont know if it looks good or not?
-TODAYS PROGRESS-
Had my septic show signs of a back up so I took the day off while there fixing stuff.
So far I have
-pulled and cleaned the (really clean already) TB
-Cleaned some of the intake manifold
-Cleaned the MAF
-Made sure there was no intake leaks
I came across this plug too, am I missing somthing?
I also noticed this piece is missing a screw.
While cleaning the MAF out I noticed this sticker, Is this a standard sticker they send you with a K&N filter or is there more to it?
I called around looking for another MAF but the only place that said they "may" have it wants $75 if they do. I am broke so I took a video to see what you guys think.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xqW5T...e=channel_page
So far there has been ZERO change (it still misses). We will get to the bottom of it though......
Thanks in advance!!!!!
Last edited by Slideshow86; 09-29-2009 at 01:06 PM.
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Well I feel like this is more of a diary than anything.......
My new symptoms are as follows,
-The tach started acting up the other morning. It was pretty cold outside and I was stopped at a light. I looked down and my tach said I was at 0 rpm's. I reved it and it went up as it should, then fell back to 0. I shut it off and started it and it was the same. I reved it a few times and it started working again. So far this has happened twice in the past week.
-I was in 4wd parked with my electric fan on with the truck running. I walked down a trail a little ways and when I came back it was kind of missing. I got in, shut off my fan and revved her up and she quit.
This is just driving my insane and cant afford for it to leave me stranded anywherere. Plus I have looked everywhere for a MAF sensor and SOL.
My new symptoms are as follows,
-The tach started acting up the other morning. It was pretty cold outside and I was stopped at a light. I looked down and my tach said I was at 0 rpm's. I reved it and it went up as it should, then fell back to 0. I shut it off and started it and it was the same. I reved it a few times and it started working again. So far this has happened twice in the past week.
-I was in 4wd parked with my electric fan on with the truck running. I walked down a trail a little ways and when I came back it was kind of missing. I got in, shut off my fan and revved her up and she quit.
This is just driving my insane and cant afford for it to leave me stranded anywherere. Plus I have looked everywhere for a MAF sensor and SOL.
#15
im having exact problem like slide, all started with faulty wire and that led to carbon buildup on plugs so gotta check those make sure they sparking good, checked gapped, ive adjusted the afm one click leaner, and redid all the vacuum lines as well as installed new flamethrower injectors.
Im thinking that the injectors are working so good at atomizing the gas its getting a better burn yet hasnt adjusted yet. also gonna install new O2 sensor denso brand of amazon for 45 bucks yes!!! hopefully by this weekend I'll have the lil k inks worked out... wonder how sliders problem worked out
Im thinking that the injectors are working so good at atomizing the gas its getting a better burn yet hasnt adjusted yet. also gonna install new O2 sensor denso brand of amazon for 45 bucks yes!!! hopefully by this weekend I'll have the lil k inks worked out... wonder how sliders problem worked out
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