Need help doing the ISR Mod
#1
Need help doing the ISR Mod
Hi all,
I know there is a lot of ISR Mod threads out there, and i read a lot of them. Most things are clear to me, but in the pictures I see, there is no sign of an EGR box anywhere to be found anymore (marked in red in the picture hereafter)
Now I see that there are 2 lines going into it, and 1 line + 1 "pipe" coming out. If i were to do the ISR Mod now, I would have 1 pipe (thinking about aluminum spectre intake since i dont have too many tools yet ) going from the airbox to the intake with 2 vacuum lines attached. But then there is no connection to the pipe coming out of the EGR box anymore, is that how it should be? (see again marked in red)
not sure how i should proceed here - any tips are very welcome
thanks!
I know there is a lot of ISR Mod threads out there, and i read a lot of them. Most things are clear to me, but in the pictures I see, there is no sign of an EGR box anywhere to be found anymore (marked in red in the picture hereafter)
Now I see that there are 2 lines going into it, and 1 line + 1 "pipe" coming out. If i were to do the ISR Mod now, I would have 1 pipe (thinking about aluminum spectre intake since i dont have too many tools yet ) going from the airbox to the intake with 2 vacuum lines attached. But then there is no connection to the pipe coming out of the EGR box anymore, is that how it should be? (see again marked in red)
not sure how i should proceed here - any tips are very welcome
thanks!
#2
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Most of the ones I am familiar with eliminate the two black boxes bolted to the airbox with 10mm bolts. The hoses they used to connect to on the intake plenium are just plugged. You will need to do something about the hose going from the valve cover to the intake hose. I have seen little aftermarket filters on there or you can easily splice a hose into the new intake. But yeah... those two boxes you circled you can just unbolt and put on the shelf in the garage.
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Like millball says... The mod really doesnt help performance at all, decreases the longevity of the intake and makes stuff louder. If you do the project, hold onto the original stuff. If you are anything like me you will want to throw it back in in ten yrs. When you are sick of looking at the aftermarket one in there. But projects like this are fun and everyone should try stuff on their truck
#7
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[QUOTE=maninnepa;52380511]Getting rid of those 2 boxes and hoses makes it a LOT easier to check your tranny fluid...if u have an automatic!/QUOTE]
Ya, those pesky Toyota Engineers, what do they know.....
Ya, those pesky Toyota Engineers, what do they know.....
Last edited by ksti; 10-26-2017 at 10:40 AM.
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#8
Thanks, I appreciate your feedback! From what I was reading it seems to
Or do you think that this can only be done through an exhaust system?
I do have an automatic, but i think that should not be the reason for me to just get rid of them
- increase lower rpm torque a bit (questionable even though I have looked at the dyno tests that were posted)
- makes it sound a bit throatier
- will get me higher mpg
Or do you think that this can only be done through an exhaust system?
I do have an automatic, but i think that should not be the reason for me to just get rid of them
Last edited by tbst1337; 10-26-2017 at 09:40 PM. Reason: update
#9
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The exhaust is easily the better mod. A high-flow cat and muffler on a 2 1/4 pipe is good for the engine breathing and the sound. You can try the intake mod. It really wont hurt anything. I doubt you will find that it increases your sound quality much though.
#10
I have tried looking for an cat back system, but I couldnt find any others than the stock replacement. I then bought a Magnaflow glasspack with 2 1/4in diameter and will probably get a pipe fixed to it.
Problem where I live is that a legal exhaust system would need to be certified for my specific car model. Therefore, the idea is to keep the stock system and change it once I have to go for inspection.
My only worry is, that with the glasspack it will be far too loud
Problem where I live is that a legal exhaust system would need to be certified for my specific car model. Therefore, the idea is to keep the stock system and change it once I have to go for inspection.
My only worry is, that with the glasspack it will be far too loud
#11
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It's an easy mod to do. The boxes are there for nothing more than to silence intake noise. I replaced mine with a single pipe and a cone filter. I did it strictly to free up space in the engine bay. The intake is only a tad louder but not annoying. It actually has a pretty good note I think.
As for the hoses, they are important and can't just have a mini filter installed. They they all will essentially introduce a vacuum leak and cause a lean condition if they aren't plumbed into the intake piping after the AFM. The one on the valve cover is PCV vent and is absolutely required. The small one out the front is for the A/C and power steering idle up control. If you have neither of this functioning feel free to cap it off or leave it disconnected. The large one is for the PAIR valve. Again, of its non-functional or been deleted you can cap it off.
EDIT: The pair valve doesn't actually need to be plumbed after the AFM. If done so it'll actually cause a rich condition. It only needs to be filtered so plumb it in between the AFM and the filter or give it its own filter.
Also it's the noisiest of them. That's why it got its own silencer from the factory. If you only filter it you will definitely hear some extra noise mainly at idle. Ultimately I'd recommend just deleting it along with EGR as long as your not tied down by the EPA. It was worthwhile for me. It makes for fewer components to fail and makes for changing sparkplugs about a 5 minute task.
As for the hoses, they are important and can't just have a mini filter installed. They they all will essentially introduce a vacuum leak and cause a lean condition if they aren't plumbed into the intake piping after the AFM. The one on the valve cover is PCV vent and is absolutely required. The small one out the front is for the A/C and power steering idle up control. If you have neither of this functioning feel free to cap it off or leave it disconnected. The large one is for the PAIR valve. Again, of its non-functional or been deleted you can cap it off.
EDIT: The pair valve doesn't actually need to be plumbed after the AFM. If done so it'll actually cause a rich condition. It only needs to be filtered so plumb it in between the AFM and the filter or give it its own filter.
Also it's the noisiest of them. That's why it got its own silencer from the factory. If you only filter it you will definitely hear some extra noise mainly at idle. Ultimately I'd recommend just deleting it along with EGR as long as your not tied down by the EPA. It was worthwhile for me. It makes for fewer components to fail and makes for changing sparkplugs about a 5 minute task.
Last edited by Kolton5543; 11-01-2017 at 07:47 PM.