'91 22RE in perfect tune,fresh oil 1500 miles ago, 20-50 synthetic.

I just had to add 1/2 a quart to top it off.

It doesnt leak
Plugs look clean,so,I dont think its burning it.
It doesnt smoke on start up or any other time.



So where the hell is it going?

 

Under the passenger side seat =)

if you are sure you have no leaks at all then it might be burning it slowly.

Keep in mind that even a tiny leak will cause you to lose a quart over time and 1500 miles would be enough to cause such a loss with a small leak

 

Well,the truck has got over 170k miles on it.I guess its bound to happen sooner or later.

 

sounds like a little blow-by

nothing really to worry about; can be expected after a couple thousand miles

just keep on top of it and don't let it get too low

after I rebuilt my 22re and the rings were still seating, I burned 2.5 quarts of oil and didn't even know it! I was only running on 1.5 quarts! I was wondering why I had such a mean valve tick and a cold-start knock

 

My 2000 Sequoia uses about a quart every 3000 miles and has from day one...it really bothers me...Toyota says a quart every 1000 mile is acceptable...not to me. I too use Mobil One...no leaks...

I have a Jeep CJ with 130K and it doesn't use a drop....

 

I hadnt thought of that SB.
I drive this little truck pretty hard sometimes.
Its a good thing Im obsessive compulsive anal retentive about maintenance.

 

You have a Jeep and ADMIT IT??
Sick man,just sick thats all!

J/K

 

Dude 1/2 quart in 1500 miles and you're worried? Quit it! Same goes for the rest of you guys. Thats asbolutely normal for these motors ESPECIALLY if you got a lot of miles.

If you're seeing blue smoke only on startup it's valve stem seals. If you're seeing blue smoke on acceleration or worse, all the time, it's rings and time for a rebuild.

It's a 22r, youre turning your hairs grey over nothin.

 

Oh and btw, running synthetic is a waste of money. You're not prolonging the life of the bearings and seals by running it, and syn will leak past the rings more than dino-oil (it's thinner) also you might consider 10-40 over thicker 20-50. I personally run 10-30 year round and whatever is cheapest with the highest API rating. The motors ran dino all it's 230k life and a visual inspection of the crank and internals last summer showed it was still titties.

Regular oil changes is all you need to worry about. 3/3k

 

I guess I wont worry about it then.

I have 3 kids.....my hair is already almost all white and Im only 46.

 

Did you just recently start using synthetic? Drew is mostly right, a motor with 170K doesn't need to be running synthetic, unless it has ran synthetic for the last 100K. Switching to synthetic after the motor already has a lot of miles on it is bound to start using oil. Still, 1/2 quart at 1500 miles isn't bad. If it keeps that up, that's a quart per 3,000 miles. That's what my old motor used before the cam chain guide grenaded.

I would say that if you have a fresh motor, completely broke in, synthetic might not be a waste of money. Synthetic can last about twice as long as conventional oil, so you can change it less often. That alone will help offset the cost. Synthetic can also lubricate more effectively, thereby increasing the life expectancy of a motor.

That being said, I'm running conventional oil on my brand new motor, and will change it every 3K. I don't know how I feel about going 5K on an oil change, if I was running synthetic. At some point, I may try it and see what the oil looks like after 3K, then 4K, then 5K. I have some time to think about it, since my motor isn't even finished breaking in yet.

 

I usually run Castrol GTX on a new motor during break in and switch to synthetic for every change after that.


The previous owner only ran synthetic.I only know this because he saved all his receipts as do I.
I run 20/50 synthetic in all my vehicles with 5k OCI.

 

I run Castrol GTX/High Mileage 10W30. No problems whatsoever. Maybe a half quart every 3000 burned.

 

Well if it's always had syn, doesnt hurt to keep running it. Especially when IMO you're burning a normal amount of oil. By design oil is allowed past the rings to coat the cylinder wall and lubricate the rings themselves. To do this the oil left in the chamber has to be burnt. Normal operation.

I burn 1 qt every 1k miles. 230k miles on the rings... but when you take into account how much wear and tear the motor ACTUALLY has on it, probably be better compared to a motor with 400k miles thats only seen the highway, not the 8hours of abuse and 5 miles you do in the mtns wheeling, LOL

 

My truck burns a little oil too at 140k miles in age, haven't driven it enough to establish just how fast it burns oil. Comes with the territory I suppose. I topped it up with about half a quart of some 10W30 dino, but I don't know what the PO had in there to begin with, though I really oughta do an oil change anyways since the oil is pretty black and I didn't do it when I got the truck like I should have. Planning on just always using 10W30 dino until they stop sellin' the stuff.

 

run some restore in your motor. it does make a difference.

 

Hi Everyone, new to the forum. I know I may be overreacting but here it is. I recently bought a 1993 2wd 22re with 38K miles from my original-owner uncle. This truck was babied to say the least. When I got it the oil was about a year old but didn't have more than a few hundred miles of use, looked clean too so I didn't change it. Well, today when I started it up after it sat for 2 hours I got a dreadful plume of smoke for the first few seconds. I didn't see the color but after another 3 hour stop I was ready and confirmed it was blue. I checked the oil level and noticed it was about a 1/2 quart shy of when I last checked it (1,000 or so miles). Sooo, changed the oil in a hurry hoping that for some illogical reason it would do something. Why would it start doing this all of the sudden? I am very confident that it didn't do it before. And with this little amount of miles, shouldn't valve seat wear be gradual and at much higher mileage that 41K? Would a compression test yield anything?

Thanks!

 

Most manufactures have the same thing, 1000 miles and one quart is normal to the manufacture but I wouldn't like it, I used to own a Civic and it used a little less than a quart every 1000 miles, drove me nuts, I tore it down and replaced everything and still same thing. To the poster above me, just because something has low miles, doesn't mean it is as good as new, rubber seals need oil to stay well rubber otherwise when it is parked for long periods of time with no lubrication the rubber will harden and allow leaks. It sounds like this is possibly what has happened with your valve seals, but I wouldn't worry about it much.

 

I also forgot to add that if a car sits around long, or is only taken on short in town drives, that condensation will sometimes build up in the crankcase and then when it is driven on the freeway, that condensation is burned off, and it appears that the oil level has dropped in the pan. But again, I wouldn't worry.

 

Even though the truck has low miles the valves stem seals will deteriorate over time, just sitting.
Classic symptoms are blowing out blue smoke on start up and deceleration( high throttle vacuum). You can see the starting smoke yourself , but unless its really bad, the deceration smoke can only be seen/ smelled by someone following you.
You can easily burn 1/2 quart every 1000 miles through your valve guide seals.