Whoa…what happed here…great to see your feedbacks and inquiries…but need to credit …BUMPIN YOTA / CEBBY and the rest of the Yoters in that posts. I just picked up where they started/left off (link below).

https://www.yotatech.com/409801-post15.html

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/i...ap-3vze-60513/

Anyway thanks Aviator for digging into this further. You are correct, the box is from a different car but meter was definitely from a Cressida (unless some nut from the jy swapped it with the original then I ended up pulling it - it happens). I probably need to go back to the jy and find out exactly the car type/model.

As requested, here’s the close up of the part numbers:

VAFM tag:





Box: not sure if this is the pn you are looking for.



For the mouth openings/diameters, I refer u to the first link above (courtesy of Cebby’s post15).

Demonk1d mentioned about lean/rich mixture, I’m not sure what state my mixture is at (which I‘m worried about). But so far I don’t smell gas nor rotten egg odor coming from the exhaust. Any advice on how to determine this? As for the resistance readout I used a Fluke DMM. Measured the resistance per the FSM VAFM table. Once I knew the resistance are within the spec, it’s all plug n play from there.

As for modding the original VZ box, I agree with Aviator. Using plastic weld doesn’t give me a good feeling also. I always have this thing in the back of my mind that if something breaks in the weld it will be a disaster. If it’s bolted then I know it’s solid. The way I see it, involves a lot of work too . Besides, I’d like to keep the original parts in case there’s a need to do smog test. Emission laws are tough here in Cali.

Space-junk have point there but part of the reason for this mod is to find a way to increase the airflow and the 7mge swap seems to solved that part.

If this mod is the way to go then I think the rest of the mods will be worthit (be it expensive one).

So these are just my 2 cents…

(I said “seem/somehow” because it has not thrown a CEL on me yet - hopefully not)

---Side note:
-- from what I understand and read from other post, the ECU is the ONE that determines the mixture and threreby udjust/compensate for what ever the meter will throw at it (as long as within the set parameters). Maybe this is the reason why this (is somehow) working??----

Note:
You may have noticed the meter that I used in the actual install is somewhat different from the one I used in the picture (cover taken off). This so because I noticed that the bypass screw cap was drilled and I was not sure if was tampered with so I went back to the jy and did an even exchanged then measured the resistance also (this is probably where the anomaly that Avaitor discovered - apologies for not mentioning this right away )

 

i find this odd i just did this swap but i had to ajust the afm cause it was runing so lean like 18 19 now it's sits about 14.7 like the stock one did

for your truck to run this well i find odd mabye your truck is in limp mode bumping your fuel map ???????

or some one richen up the afm for you

i got my afm form 90 cresida as well but there all the saem

 

...not sure what to say Nashman00...I'm close to 300 miles and still no CEL, gas consumption is about the same when I had the original VAFM on (maybe because of a "happy feet" syndrome) for sure (based on the seat on the pants observation") have more power. Any advice on how to check for limp mode w/o going to a -smog- shop? Do you need me to check for something in my setup. Anything you can tell me to make sure this is not a fluke or that I'm not killing my engine is much appreciated.

One thing I did noticed, a slight increase in the cabin temperature with all windows closed (it rained and slight overcast here in Cali for couple of days now - so outside weather was not a factor). Odd thing is, temp gauge is normal - needle close to the mid marker (that is left of the mid marker) - same reading before the mod.
Anyway I'll keep updating this post - the good, the bad and the ugly...

 

hummm cabin temp eh

the only thing i can think of is heating going for the shifter hole but that from runing rich and burning fuel in your exhuast

but if you heater is hotten then is was befor then your are runing on the side of lean cause fuel is coolent for you combustion chambers

well to cheak your truck is in limp mode make sure bald ant burned out lol

and jump your diganostick box should be t1 e1 or some thing like that just as if you were to time the truck this will give you all the cods the truck has stored over the year's

 

bald ant...hehe..
thanks Nashman...I'll do a diagnose and see what secrets I can uncover.

there's probably stuff in there that I'm not aware of since i bought the Yota...anyway
let u know later..

 

Nashman00...forgot to ask u...is ur Yota running OK now with 7mge afm after the adjustment?

also, on my afm - no adjustment/calibration was done to it - just plug and play.

Edit:
Just saw your post on the other thread... looks like you got it working by using a wide band. Any improvement / gain after the mod?

I probably need to do the same too just to be on the safe side..

Another edit:
...just read your own post, all I can say is yeahhhh man...feel the power!!

btw, how did u calibrate the mixture...mind if u share?

 

Thanks Junker88...I was like the cat who swallowed the canary when it started...great feeling...now just need to tune it further...Nashman00 dialed his meter 6 clicks to richen it so as not to ran lean.
I probably need to do it on mine too to be on the safe side.

Anybody out there has any idea on measuring AF mixture? Never mind....thanks a lot for your help...

400 more miles later...no cel...
and after adjusting the afm...looks like I gained more power maybe 5 more on top what I have already gotten (I'd say 10-15 or more)... hopefully somebody out there can provide the actual numbers on their mod...but this is difinitely a MUST MOD for the 3.0's. Big improvement....
next I'll hook up a wide band next so that I can properly monitor/calibrate further the A/F ratio. Hopefully I'm at 14.7...

...end of post..

 

I think this awesome. I would like to try it. I found one on ebay buy it doesn't have the same part number, but it says that it will work on an 86-93 7mge motor and that it came from an automatic. does that matter?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/86-93...#ht_500wt_1211

 

Hey Alex,
That's a good buy, jy man wont budge on mine and charge me 45 bucks but anyway I think it will work. Unfortunately the only way to find out for sure is to plug it in. On my setup as I mentioned in the beginning of the post - I did some checking and comparison before pluging the afm. It might be luck I dunno but it worked right at the bat. Someone did the same swap but had to recal his a/f mixture to prevent a lean mixture. You might need to do it on your's or maybe not. I also did a little adjustment to see if makes a difference (I think it did). To be sure though my next plan as I already mentioned is hook up a wide band to see where my a/f ratio is at. This will give me peace of mind for sure.
IMHO: if u are succesfull with this mod (coupled with the ISR mod) you will like the result.
good luck...

 

all the afm for the 7mge are the same

i going to be droping by my old works place thats has a dyno hopefully some time this week with my fuel computer in so i can tune in some more power

right now i need to add some fuel in some spots to gian mroe power but as of right nwo my gas milage has improved alot witch is pretty dame sweet

these are my mods so far and all of them have gained power and speed

7mge afm
7mgt air box
custom NM 3 inc intake
Nm short ajustable short shifter shifter
reed vavle res removed
7mgte big body alt 180 amp
7mge ig coil
copper stock heat range plugs gapped to 7mge since i am runing a 7mge coil spec's 1.1 vs 0.8
ngk wires case mine are
plx m300 wide band
flex alight 16 inc fan

soon to be install apexi neo

my truck is light and day diff and i just beat my brother stock 3.4 2000 4runner i am sased and have a big lift and 35's lol

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hH71Fb4BN4s


here is some pic's





















more to comp if you want

 

Much ablighed Nashman,
Great info and would like to add to my mod list some of your mods (if you don't mind). Looks like ur Yota is a heck of a rig.

Thanks again!

 

this is just my truck my car is 10 time more modded

 

Interesting mods Nash man... what mod did you do to the bracket for the alt?

 

oh it's an easy swap

you have to swap over the voltage reg so you can use then 4runners/trucks plug
and cut the caseing so it clears the plug and drill out the stock ring termail so ti can fit over teh stud or repace it like i did

and space out the brake wiht one nut or some washers and presto

mine is upgrade one that peeks at 180 amps

mr2 alt's off teh sefl have peek of 140

stock is like 55 so this way you can run some light's/winches/sterio ect with no dim

 

Interesting my stock was custom rewound to put out 90A just over idle... but 180A would be better lol...

 

Very nice... I am now looking for the parts to do this to my rig!! I been thinking tho.... are there any larger throttle bodies out there that will bult right up? kinda like putting a tb from a 4.0l jeep on a 4cyl jeep? it bolts right up, and you can use the original tps....I am searching!!

 

far as i know of there is no thottle body that will simple bolt on the stock flange

but there is one thottle body that could be fab on with not to much turble

and that is the 1uzfe with out the track plate you may have to swap the tps tab feet or mabye even use the 1uzef tps

but the stock one is all ready pretty big for a 3 liter so i can not see a big gain from it

but you can try if you want

 

EDIT:
VAFM from a 89-90 Camry will also work - this is what I used (not the 7MGE but will also work).
Engine model: 2VZE.

600 miles later - so far so good...

 

I think that I saw a post where a guy used a 3vzfe vafm. He never posts much but he did a lot of work on his engine. Headers, cams, larger vafm, .20 over bored cylinders and some portin and polishin. His name on here is green93toy. Anybody seen that?

 

ahhh makes sence now why i put my 7mge one on and it made my truck run hella lean

and yours did not you must be a small afm

i need fuel reg to fix my small lean spot