My rear main seal is done for
#1
Contributing Member
Thread Starter
My rear main seal is done for
I just got word from my dad, that my rear main seal is bad, and slowly getting worse.
I sent my truck in to have a few minor things done that I didn't have time to do because I'm in school and my truck is at home. Plus I have to get it all done so I can take it to emmissions and get new tags by the end of the month.
I think I had my mechanic replace some vaccum hoses I couldn't find, and I bought an exaust manifold gasket I didn't have time to put on, and i had a PCV valve I didn't get around to doing.
But I'm sad, because I need a rear main seal. What are my options....It will be very expensive to have done. I dunno if I can do it myself.
I sent my truck in to have a few minor things done that I didn't have time to do because I'm in school and my truck is at home. Plus I have to get it all done so I can take it to emmissions and get new tags by the end of the month.
I think I had my mechanic replace some vaccum hoses I couldn't find, and I bought an exaust manifold gasket I didn't have time to put on, and i had a PCV valve I didn't get around to doing.
But I'm sad, because I need a rear main seal. What are my options....It will be very expensive to have done. I dunno if I can do it myself.
#3
Contributing Member
Thread Starter
Mine has started leaking more and more oil these days. Eventually it will just loose it so fast I won't be able to keep it full. But I hope I get it done before that point.
#5
Registered User
actually before my HG popped I was in the same boat. Blown rear main seal. How hard are these to change? Will i have to pull the block (which i think would be easy right now...lol)?
Anybody got pics of changing a rear main?
Anybody got pics of changing a rear main?
#6
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#8
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I used to have an '82 Toyota 5 speed that had a blown rear main seal. At the time, I could only afford gas, so no replacement was on the schedule. I just timed everything so I could keep moving:
At a stop light, the rear main seal would spit oil onto the clutch, so as the light was turning yellow for the cross traffic, I would let the clutch out to start burning off the oil. When the oil burned off, the truck would start to move, and I would be on my way again, until the next stop light. This truck also lost the center pin for the stick shift, so the stick would spin all the way around in a circle. It was great for theft protection. Nobody else could drive that truck unless they knew the shifting pattern or figured it out quickly.
to actually replace it, I think you're gonna need to pull the transmission away from the engine, or pull the engine away from the transmission to access the rear main seal. Either way, it will take a significant amount of time and work.
At a stop light, the rear main seal would spit oil onto the clutch, so as the light was turning yellow for the cross traffic, I would let the clutch out to start burning off the oil. When the oil burned off, the truck would start to move, and I would be on my way again, until the next stop light. This truck also lost the center pin for the stick shift, so the stick would spin all the way around in a circle. It was great for theft protection. Nobody else could drive that truck unless they knew the shifting pattern or figured it out quickly.
to actually replace it, I think you're gonna need to pull the transmission away from the engine, or pull the engine away from the transmission to access the rear main seal. Either way, it will take a significant amount of time and work.
#9
If you've got help it's not that bad, go ahead and get a clutch kit if yours is pretty old. If you don't have a bodylift the top two bolts are gonna suck. If you have an engine hoist try this. Put a jack under the oilpan, remove your shifters, the run the engine hoist threw the passenger side, rap a chain around the tranny and use that instead of a transmission jack. Make sure you have enough slack on the hoist to lower the tranny to the ground. Take the tranny and transfer case down as one unit with the crossmember still attached and lower it onto a creeper. Remove your clutch, flywheel, and rear main retainer and your home free. It's not that bad and you'll save $$$$.
#10
Registered User
It's an expensive repair to have done. It's not an expensive repair to do yourself, it's simply labor intensive.
If you've got spare change, do the clutch (include the pilot bearing and throw out bearing) at the same time.
If you don't have spare change, you're talking about a seal.. Pay attention to your crank, it may need a sleeve - it tends to get a grove in it. Ted sells the kit to sleeve it.
If you've got spare change, do the clutch (include the pilot bearing and throw out bearing) at the same time.
If you don't have spare change, you're talking about a seal.. Pay attention to your crank, it may need a sleeve - it tends to get a grove in it. Ted sells the kit to sleeve it.
#11
Contributing Member
Thread Starter
Man, mine's not as bad as some of the stories above yet. But I'm sure it will get there eventually. I"m gonna have to find someone to help me with this.
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