Justinlhc,
I don't know your setup but I have no problem removing/accessing the dipsticks on mine. Plenty of room.

 

Latest MOD here: VAFM SWAP

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...-think-183463/

 

If I were you man I'd rename this thread "Edwin's Buildup Thread."
You're on a role buddy.

Great write-ups and great pictures.
Keep up the good work!

Fink

 

excellent work Edwin

 

Thanks Fink/Avaitor...probably I'll put it in build thread on my next mod...

btw...Avaitor...foot just got heavier after the afm mod...need to find a way to control it ...lol...

 

Okay.. I'm doing this mod myself, but don't have a sweet junk yard near me so I don't have all the exact specs in this write up. I have a few questions:

What's the bend angle on the curved part of the Volvo pipe?
What are the specs on the little bibs coming from the Volvo pipes that came in it?

Despite my noobness, this is a sick write up, plus the 7mge swap, I think I'm gonna try and get that one done this week too.

 

Hey Craferty,
Glad to be of help, anyway I'll get you the arc measurement / and bib later but in the meantime to save you time and headache bending ur own, check out ebay - look for Volvo 740 intake pipe. There should be a couple there.
If you can combine this two simple mods (ISR/7mge) you will be very stoke with the results.

 

Yeah, I was planning on getting the 7mge piece today from the ToyotaOnly yard near me, I just didn't know if there were parts at Home Depot that would work the same way rather than ordering the pipes. Thanks again for these awesome write ups.

 

Crafferty,
good to know that ur getting the afm. For the pipe HD don't have it. I went that route too and just wasted my time looking for it. All they have are fence pipes and electrical pipes- 2" dia. There's a 3" with a 45 degree bend but it's made of PVC - imho stay away from it - although I've seen some in the this site use it.
The other route I was considering before going the Volvo route was using a mandrel:
here's the link if ur interested: http://www.mandrelexhaustsystems.com...nds/Categories. There's more out there, but I choose the Volvo bec it has bibs already (I thingk they are 1/2" dia).
As for the angle - guestimate around 30 to 40 degrees, I'm not sure if 45 degrees will work but u can try.
Good luck...

 

Edwin! I did the mod today, very satisfied with the ISR so far. I actually did go with the 45 degree PVC pipe, the guy that was working there said that those pipes should be able to withstand the heat, it is a little close to the brake MC though. I'm going to clean it up when I do the deckplate and 7mge later this week. I'd be working on it tomorrow, but I'm going to go buy an '86 4R (rebuilt 22R with headers and magnaflow, just needs new clutch /me drools). But I think either by the end of the week or early next week I'll have the 7mge and throw that in there and contact my neighbors radiator connection and get together some high yield angled pipe to actual specs for the ISR. Thanks for all your help thus far.

 

Sweet!! Just make sure to monitor the pipe of any changes. Although it can take heat (as claimed) it might soften during operation. If that starts to happen you might get a leak. Remember also, you have the clamp preasure there holding it in placed, soft surface w/ preasure is not good.
...let us know how much improvement you get from these mods...pics if u can.

btw -- good luck on ur 4R swap...

 

1st- awesome.. but i have some pertinent questions


1- what happens to the extra hoses from the eng/ to airbox (the one that loops around, and the other that goes to the side box ? are any hoses plugged off ? or where do they go ?

2- i see 2" pipe connectors, and i know the intake is 3"...is the tube your using really 2 inches diameter ?
..... appears to be a 3" rubber connector @ the throttle body, but a 3" to 2" @ the AFM ? this is confusing. is the throttle body seeing a step size, or are you really using a 2" pipe ??

3. would pvc be better, or exhaust pipeing (since its only 3 bucks), i even found some bendable exhuast piping @ shucks auto stores.

i realize PVC might get hot, but it should have a higher flashpoint/ melting point than the original plastic tubing, which sits even closer to the exhaust...
just a few thoughts

 

1. If this is the hose you are talking about - it's still there connected to the reservoir (yellow line).
here's a picture:






2. The ISR pipe is about 2 1/4". But I will upgrade it to a 3" in the future.

3. As for using a PVC, I've seen people used it but I don't recommend it because of the possibility of deformation during summertime. It might leak but you can try if you want to.

here's my other MOD: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...-think-183463/

htp

 

thats the hose, but mine attaches to the side plastic box, and that (side box) has another tube going into the main (3'') tube.

this must be sealed off, or removed completely (since there is no lower port on your 2'' pipe).


and i also read your other post, if i need another afm, i may do that as well, but really my next mod is a snorkel...

my main objective is to resolve my issues after a recent hydro lock, and i am very interested in cleaning up the engine bay to be as minimal as possible (all those vacuum hoses. tubes, emission stuff, .ugg).

a search led me to this post.
i read only 1 other lsr mod (w/pics) and it is closed, and i am glad this post (and you) are still open.


awesome post btw. i am very appreciative of the pix, and your effort to share the benefits of DIY.

 

Since this thread is up I have a quick semi-related question.
I put a used AFM from a '90 3vze into my '93 3vze, could the year difference cause my timing to not stay correct after the motor running for a little while??

 

I think they made some minor changes to the set up between 92-93 (at the mid-model cycle refresh when they changed the front grill trim and so on) to satisfy some cali./fed. smog law changes but I don't think it would affect anything AFM wise... you may need to get the AFM adjusted a bit... (basically the tech. will pry off the black plastic cover and adjust the set screw to alter the flapper spring resistance) It sounds like the meter is sending signals that there is more airflow then there is and the ecu is advancing the spark to try to keep up.
I'd start with a full tune up and system check.

 

I agree with Aviator - do a tune up first so that you have a baseline.
What was the reason of the meter swap?

As for the difference I don't think if there's any electrically/mechanically. But to be sure it's up to spec - verify the resistance of the meters.

this might be helpful link.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...esting-146662/

hth...

 

I have a question?

Are there 2 silencers? I know that there is one that is under the AFM/MAF. What is the one that is in the middle of the tubing. Looks like a small black box.


Thanks-Blake

 

That small black box is where the intake silencer attaches... it's a big goofy smooshed and bent plastic tube thing that sits between the wheel well and the exhaust manifold the other end of it sits up beside/below the AFM itself.
Its main purpose is to provide a source of "dead" air to the intake to reduce any possible "pulsing" or "burble" in the intake air. Really all it does is quiet down the intake and supply (performance reducing) heated air to the intake. It is what you are removing when you do this mod.

 

I ask the question because I only replaced the "First box" with some tubing and I didn't mess with the second box underneath the AFM. Do I have to remove the second silencer as well? Heres a picture to help understand what I'm saying.