"My engine is smoking please help"
#61
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Location: TENN Native Languishing in Virginia
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That doesn't look good; I'm particularly worried about the "chunks" in your TB opening...are they hard or gooey? The oil is coming directly from the hose in your valve cover (PCV valve). This supports my thoughts on valve stem seals. Lots of blow-by can throw oil into your intake like that. I'd check the PCV valve as well.
#62
Registered User
Ummm....one thing you mentioned was the white sludge in the valve cover. That's a blown head gasket. You are going to have to completely rebuild this motor. You have several issues going on, but without a solid motor to work on you are spinning your wheels.
#63
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Yes, what exactly is the white sludge you're talking about? Do you have a pic? That could be responsible for the white smoke, but it should smell like coolant, not fuel.
#66
ok i will see, also that white sludge was in small traces under the valve cover, there wasn't a big amount, This is what i think maybe head gasket blew before i got it and they fixed it?? Could be a possbility. This also coud be the reason for a cleaned out radiator and new fluid put in it. also i just changed the oil the other day friday actually and the oil is all ready getting dark.. I will do what i need to i will unplug the cold injector just to see if that helps, the seal around it looks new..
#67
i unplugged it and nothing happend other than it would start after i unplugged it, i plugged it back in and it started right up.. looking into pulling the head and going for new valve seals and just see how if it makes the rings smoke.. never know if it has been rebuilt and just had a bad head. never know..
#68
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You need to DRIVE it with the cold start injector unplugged after it gets warmed up. If it's not shutting off, it will dump too much fuel into the intake. If it's cold, it won't start without the CS injector connected.
#69
Registered User
ok i will see, also that white sludge was in small traces under the valve cover, there wasn't a big amount, This is what i think maybe head gasket blew before i got it and they fixed it?? Could be a possbility. This also coud be the reason for a cleaned out radiator and new fluid put in it. also i just changed the oil the other day friday actually and the oil is all ready getting dark.. I will do what i need to i will unplug the cold injector just to see if that helps, the seal around it looks new..
It will be interesting to see what kind of job they did, if it was done, when you get the head off. I just wonder why someone would go through all the trouble of doing a head gasket job and not do the head/valves?
#70
THOOK, This is what my theory is on it. CHEAP ass people, U know what i mean? Just to sell it... I was thinikin i would get a good known used head cheap and throw it and a new gasket on just to see what happens, Don't know for sure.. I may just take the head and have someone put valve guide seals in it, even if it last for 6 months that will be fine. To get someone to do it for me with it in the truck is 400.00, I can't believe this, I should be able to get me valve guide seals and new intake and exhaust valves for less than that, Hell i can get a NEW head cheaper than that.. lol..
#71
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THOOK, This is what my theory is on it. CHEAP ass people, U know what i mean? Just to sell it... I was thinikin i would get a good known used head cheap and throw it and a new gasket on just to see what happens, Don't know for sure.. I may just take the head and have someone put valve guide seals in it, even if it last for 6 months that will be fine. To get someone to do it for me with it in the truck is 400.00, I can't believe this, I should be able to get me valve guide seals and new intake and exhaust valves for less than that, Hell i can get a NEW head cheaper than that.. lol..
BTW; when you get ready to replace the head, order one from www.engnbldr.com (ted).
Last edited by TNRabbit; 04-07-2007 at 12:06 PM.
#72
Oh hell 350 is LABOR, the other 50 is for the SEALS lol, LMAO.. If i pull the engine myself "which i will have too" i can get it rebuilt back to better than new for 1600, and that is for all redone valves, ready to install back.. but still too high for me. i will pull that head and get it reworked by him if isn't 200, i can get a new head for that LMAO.. thanks TNrabbit
#74
i think i may do the valve seats myself, is there a place i can get the valves and the seats and the springs? or would i be better off to get a new reman head? I am trying to add up all the expense right now, let me know if u can what all i will need? I know a valve spring compressor, and a head gasket, the guides on the timing chain look great, also this. WHAT DO I NEED TO USE TO pull the crank pulley and replace the front seal???????? Thanks
#75
check this out guys, my back window wouldn't roll down nor would the wiper work, nor the back defrost. But i got back there messing around and pulled the side rails and noticed a switch that one of the bolts holding the back on wasn't in, so i pushed it in while my wifey pushed the button and it wouldn't still work. So I looked and seen a connection that goes up to the wiper in the back and connected it, wiper worked but window didn't, so i put everything back and said screw it. started the truck to let it run and charge my battery because i was working in it cleaning it up, "just hope that the mat i pulled got dry lol." anyway i thought i would try it again and WOW, it workeeeeeedddddd.. HAHAH and worked great too...
#76
Registered User
i think i may do the valve seats myself, is there a place i can get the valves and the seats and the springs? or would i be better off to get a new reman head? I am trying to add up all the expense right now, let me know if u can what all i will need? I know a valve spring compressor, and a head gasket, the guides on the timing chain look great, also this. WHAT DO I NEED TO USE TO pull the crank pulley and replace the front seal???????? Thanks
A local parts store may have a tool to rent to remove the pulley. If not, I'm pretty sure dynamite will work. You can gently pry the seal out with a thin flat head. Put it back in with large piece of pipe end....same diameter as the seal. Or, just tap it in evenly all around with a block of wood. Be careful.
Congrats on the rear window. Those things are problematic after many years of use.
Last edited by thook; 04-08-2007 at 01:22 PM.
#77
i don't think many people used this window. it still flies up and down like a new one, also this I did go to engndlr, and i don't recall seeing those parts, just the valves. I am going to watch a ebay auction that has a reman head, but i did notice that i will have to pull the intake and exhaust to get this done, that is why i just wanted the seals so i can get a spring compressor and do it without removing the head, i will have to figure out a way to keep the valve from falling into the combustion chamber. Thanks man
#78
Registered User
The parts come in a head gasket kit. I was thinking you were going to pull the head....which if you replace it with a reman you will have to. Regardless, give them a call tomorrow and ask them. They don't have everything they offer on the website. Besides, you should make Ted's acquaintance.
Gosh, I know there's a way to keep the valves from falling in. Bubble gum? NO! That's not it. Hmmm....I forget. Ted would know.
Gosh, I know there's a way to keep the valves from falling in. Bubble gum? NO! That's not it. Hmmm....I forget. Ted would know.
#79
alright then i will give em a call unless i decide to get a reman head just for the fact of doing it. that way i will have that out of the way when i get ready to completly rebuild it..
#80
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I really dont mean to hijack Krashes thread but after reading it I realise that my exhaust smells alot like gas and I smelled the oil on the dipstick and it really does too. But it wouldnt burn at all. Should I try and disconnect my cold start inj on a warn day or after warming it up? What would I look for then or try other than that. Hope you dont mind me asking here Krash.