u see the spark plug? that is how it looks.. i am not sure of the rest

 

Search on line ,or go to library for info on valve adj.

 

ok thanks everyone for ur help if u can think of anything else, please let me know, again.. Thanks..

 

http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...fsm/index.html
Toyota FSM

go here and navigate yourself to the valve adjustment part. If you arent low on coolant and its not in the oil, you should be good. Take one thing at a time, if you open the valve cover and have water, it will be a key indicator... but start with the valves

Kat

 

my junk sounds similar at an idle, diesel like. Thats after the local dealership
adjusted the valves, those jokers. So, x2 on the valves. FWIW, I wont be letting any one adjust my valves anymore...except me, of course.

 

if you have another ride, rebuild that dude. engine stands are cheap and you can rent or barrow a lift. i rebuilt my 89 and it is running like a champ. when i got it, it had a bad knock and it was smoking badly. the condition it was in when i pulled it apart was horrifying. master rebuild kit from engnbldr 219.00 plus timing cover, oil and water pump and other various parts around 400.00 total plus around 300.00 for the machine work, so around 700.00 total.

 

well I don't want to JUMP into a engine rebuild, i did that one time with my vw bug and had more money in it than anything.. I will do the valves first.. Thanks everyone. And KAT thanks..

aaron

 

I haven't been low on coolant since i have had the truck, and the coolant actually looks clean like someone cleaned the system before i got it. Anyway I changed the oil and i know i have a leak, but i think it may be from the front seal. Quick question, will i have to have a special puller to get the crank pulley off?? I have the seal here and wanted to get it on but didn't want to start pulling untill i asked,. I will pull the V C today.. Will take pics so i know how the vacc lines look and stuff.. Also will take a pic if the valve train looks wild..

 

You can always hunt around for a used motor. You should be able to get one for $300-$500. You can also get a rebuit for around $1600. That's at least cheper than the $3500 you were quoted. Then you can rent. borrow, buy a hoist. Hell you could get a brand new hoist and still be ahead of the game. With the help of a friend, you could get it done in a weekend.

 

yes max, i know.. But that is last resort. I am kinda low on funds lol.. I wanted to actually drive this RIG till I had some more saved up, I don't treat it awful and don't drive it hard. It does 75 on the interstate and that is all i need.. So i figure try the valves and if that doesn't work go from there. I think i will rebuild this one myself I have another car i just wanted to save some miles on it, besides I really like my 4runner.. I will check out the valves first, I know that isn't going to cure my smoking problem but i may just put new valve guide seals in it and see if it makes the rings smoke then.. But after the valves I am going to get a compression and leakdown test done. Then i will be square. It starts up great and fast doesn't whine whine and then start for a long time, usally takes two whines and she is up, sometimes less than that lol... thanks man.. Well i looked on that website u sent kat and it didn't have anything about adjustement of the valves, i will look around. It did help with how a few things go on lol.. Torque wrench time in order to do that front seal though

 

just wanted to let everyone know, i started up my yota and it started right up, and the white smoke that is comming from it, smells like gasoline.. I know the other day i did some seafoam but it didn't clear the area like i thought it would, and black stuff came from the tail pipe carbon?? anyway any ideas on the gas smell?? I mean not awful but smells like gas not oil, and isn't a grey tint either.. anyway i am off to let the yota warm up and then adjust the valves, i did find the right paper.. Also one more thing, i started driving the other mornin with the heat on and my yota about went to the red line on the coolant temp sensor. I pulled over about 3 inches before it got there, well sit idle for a bit and it started to go down and didn't heat back up that far, it went half way then down half way then down, then when i was on my way back home from work i had my heat on again and it did the same thing except this time i kept driving, so it went up about 3 inches before the line and stayed for a few seconds, then went right back down? Could this be stickin thermostat?

 

Hey just a thought, I know I'm a little late here but I once seen a 22r fuel pump fail and let fuel get into the crankcase. The pump still worked, and the engine ran fine but was noisy like yours because the fuel thinned the oil. We first noticed it when it was the only truck in the fleet that would start during 30 below temps we were having. Due to the thinner oil. This could also cause the smoking. Ya might want to smell the oil on the dipstick, check the level and maybe hold a lighter to the end of the dipstick and see if the oil burns easily.

 

SCRID, GOOD IDEAL.. GOOD thought. WILL try.. Also folks i pulled the valve cover, that wasy way easier than it looked, and these engines don't have very big bolts to have to have a special tool to move the crank with. Also i adjusted the valves, problem was i went counter clock wise instead of clock wise, and adjusted it that way for what ever reason i did that for. And there was only one or two out but not enough to cause the noise, but by the time i got to the engine it was still warm a little, ANOTHER thing is this, i let my truck warm and it warms pretty fast, but after running it or letting it idle to warm state i open the oil filler hose and it is smoking, not a lot but like heat smoke.. i have put a temp gun and the temp is like 180 something in the oil filler hole? Normal? Also i put 4.5 quarts in this thing and now it says it needs more.. I don't know how that is.. But the oil is all clean, and i know i have a front seal leak, possibly a oil pan gasket leak.. I will try to get that front seal in TODAY, I am going to rent a tool hopefully.. Let me know based on this, also have vaccum lines off i think, I will post pics what what i seen in the valve cover, there was some WHITE SLUDGE but not a lot and none in the engine part. but the timing chain looked ok, and the tension felt ok, not too tight or too loose from what i could get. Also this thing here, IN ORDER to set the timing manualy after a rebuild, do u line the dots that are on the cam shaft up with the ones on the crank shaft?? Just wanderin, not wanting to jump ahead...

 

what is this??

vaccum line off?

 

Its a 5qt system, IIRC, so 4.5 qts and a filter change probally wont be enough.

That top pic is a vacume port, the one that is blocked is used for ADD, IIRC. Cant tell what the bottom pic is, too close.

 

well that would explain that then, they said at don'tknowzone it was 4.5, i put a little more and it is getting closer to the fill line, i will drop in the last bit and go from there, anyway the oil does smell like gas but don't know how much i am actually supposed to be able to smell. Also it doesn't burn that good, i couldn't get it to burn at all.. so anyway that one pic u don't know what is, is one of them three vaccum somethings in the center of the valve cover..

 

Hey get a good flashlight in there and check out the timing chain guides while your there and make sure they arent falling apart.

 

i done looked at them, they look fine from what i an see.. They feel fine as well from what i can touch.. no signs of rubbing from what i can see, I know there isn't any rubbin on the metal because there isn't any signs of it on the side of the case nor the chain..

 

If the engine sounds better after changing the oil I would change it again fairly soon.

 

Aww hell,...I forgot,.... the truck we had problems with was an older mechanical fuel pump model. Don't recall the year. Damn that kinda blows that theory