Hey guys, I need to replace the throttle position sensor for my 1990 4x4 Pickup DLX 3VZE manual transmission. The truck was built 9/89 which matters because Toyota shows different part numbers for trucks built prior to 11/89, from 11/89 through 92, and 93 to 95. My VIN tells me which part to use for the original engine, but the engine was swapped out because of a failed head gasket. I don’t know the year of the rebuilt engine. The throttle body may have been swapped out at some point as well, and I don’t know if it even matches the year of the current engine. Does anyone know what changed on the TPS between the three different part numbers (the dealership can’t tell me)? Was there a change to how the TPS fits the throttle body, a change to the signal sent to the ECU (different resistance readings), or do the changes not matter and any of the three parts would work? There are multiple part numbers for the throttle body which might mean the TPS physically changed over the years. But, there are also different part numbers for the ECM that could mean there was a change to the signal it expects from the TPS. Any ideas on how best to sort this out, or am I overthinking things here? Some aftermarket vendors list the same part # for all years while others list one for 89-92 and 93-95. Any help would be appreciated.

 

On the door VIN sticker where you got the production date is the model number, something like VZN130L-XXXXXX
post that and the part number off the ECM.

 

The VIN is JT4VN01D0L2006088. The part number on the ECM is 89661-35350.

 

thank you.!
I really need the model number, though. It's what most of the oilder EPC's use to reference part numbers. the newer EPC's use the VIN

 

Which number is the EPV? Hear a picture if that helps.

 

 

If the VIN plate on the driver's door jam is metal than the model# will be on a different metal plate under the hood on the firewall.
But yours should be the white decal if memory serves me, and that would be on the driver's door/jam
on the white decal I believe the model number is on the bottom row.

The vin works if your using a modern EPC where the software can break down the vin and locate the correct part number.
If your doing it the old-fashioned way(and that includes internet) than the model number is needed.

 

The VIN is on a white sticker. Here you go.

 

VZN100L-TRMDEA

 

89661-35350 is the correct ECM for that application and production date. The part number for a vehicle built from 11/89-08/90 is 89661-35351; but both of those ECM part numbers get super-ceded to the same reman part number(89661-35352-84). So I'll assume they're interchangeable.

regarding TPS
8/88-3/89 89452-28030(super-ceded to 89452-20050)
3/89-8/89 89452-14050
8/89-11/95 89452-12040

Part production breaks that fall in August are usually pretty easy to decide which part to select. When the date falls in the middle of a model year(like the 3/89) that gets tougher. We used to use revision charts to figure out which side of the break they fell on.
But yours should be the 89452-12040
Can you still read the TPS part number?

 

It took a bit of work, but I was able to read the part number. 89452-12040, which is what it should be. Shame the previous owner used a bunch of brake cleaner on it. At least I know which part to replace it with now. Thanks for all your help!

 

You might try my 22RE method of setting TPS with a timing light. I've never tried it on a 3.0 but I don't see why it isn't worth a try. The FSM method is laborious and inaccurate(polite way of saying it sucks)

 

It would be interesting to try. I made the process a little less painful by using hex screws to connect the TPS to the throttle body and cutting the feeler gauge shims so they fit behind the accelerator cable linkage. Do you have a link to a description of your method? I had to buy a shiny new timing light because the shop that installed my rebuilt engine didn’t think they needed to set the timing. They just pushed the distributor down as far as the bracket would allow (probably 40 degrees before top dead center) and claimed the rough idle was probably caused by the EGR valve. It would be nice to find another use for the light.

 

Setting/adjusting TPS for 22RE

Set base timing first

1. Get vehicle to operating temp. Then turn engine off.

2. With a jumper wire connect the E1 and TE1 terminals at the diagnostic box next to the engine fuse box.

3. Connect the timing light to #1 cylinder and check that timing is at 5 BTDC. If not, loosen distributer and adjust. Ideally the distributer adjustment bolt should be somewhat centered in the slot (If the adjusting bolt is at the extreme end of the slot there may be problems elsewhere.)

4. Once base timing is set shut engine off. Leave the jumper wire in place, along with the timing light.

5. Now loosen the two screws holding the TPS. You'll want them just loose enough so you can rotate the TPS.

6. Restart the vehicle and double check timing. It should still be at 5 BTDC. (If not, rotate the TPS counter-clockwise)

Now you come to the actual TPS adjustment

7. With the engine running and the timing light on the crank timing mark SLOWLY start rotating the TPS clockwise while watching the pulley. As you turn the TPS you should see the timing mark suddenly advance several degrees. STOP turning. Now VERY SLOWLY turn the TPS back the other way. As soon as the timing goes back to 5 BTDC stop and tighten the top TPS screw. Ideally, like the distributer, the setting should be somewhat centered in the adjusting slot. Go ahead and shut down engine and finish tightening the bottom TPS screw.,

What you’re trying to do is set the TPS right BEFORE the timing jumps.

8. Now pull your jumper wire from the Diagnostic box and remove the timing light.



Note: the TPS bottom screw is not easy to access. I’ve found it easier to pull the throttle body off to loosen or tighten the bottom one.

 

That’s an interesting approach. It would definitely be easier than trying to fit the feeler gauge behind the accelerator cable assembly. It would be easier if the jelly soft Phillips screws holding the TPS are replaced with hex screws. The only question I have is the timing. Shouldn’t it be 10 degrees BTC on a 3VZE?

I like the point about how the distributor should end up somewhere in the middle of the bracket, not pushed all the way to one end. Unfortunately, the “Toyota specialist” shop that installed my rebuilt 3VZE didn’t follow that advice. They returned the truck with the timing fully retarded (approx 40 degrees BTC) TWICE. Their solution was to dump a chemical into the oil to quiet the engine for 100 miles or so. That’s the reason I’ve had to head down this path in the first place. But, I have to say I like that I’ve methodically gone through the engine, system by system, and validated that each is working correctly. There were a lot of things going wrong at once, making it hard to effectively diagnose problems. Now it’s running well, the parts are all good and I know it won’t suddenly break on me.

I’ll give this method a shot and let you know how it turns out.

 

The base settings I listed in this was for a 22Re. You'll have to set base timing to whatever spec is called for on your own vehicle.

If the distributer is adjusted all the way to one side that usually means that the distributer is off a tooth, or worse, the timing chain/belt is off a tooth.
Using a timing light to set the TPS will give you instant visual confirmation that you've got it set right at the spot that it's intended. And odds are, that'll have the adjustment fairly well centered in the slot.

It'd be great to get feedback on how it works on a 3.0. My friend from TMS was by a few weeks ago and we actually talked about this(and the shortcomings of the electrical section of the FSM), but I never bothered to ask about using it on other engines. I'll make a point of that next time he's by.

 

I’ll give it a shot over the weekend and let you know. The distributor was shoved all the way to the end of the bracket because they left the timing as far off as it could go. I’m surprised it ran at all. It sounded like shaking a can of marbles when it had a load on it. When I set the timing to 10 degrees BTDC, the distributor was sitting where it was supposed to be, right in the middle of the bracket. The thing that blows my mind about it is if someone is just slapping things together without caring, why not just put it in the middle of the bracket? It will end up a lot closer to correct than pushed all the way to the end, and if the owner asks about the timing, say it must have slipped a little after it was set. The way they did it, the timing was guaranteed to be badly wrong, and they have no real excuse for it (especially with how tight they cranked the bolt holding the distributor).

But it’s fixed now and the engine’s now running right. Next job is to work through the steering and suspension. I checked the shocks and the rubber grommets had disintegrated. I bet I’ll find more problems when I start working through things. After that, I’ll get into the exhaust. There’s a bit of eBay at smell in the cab so I’m worried about a leak, and it would be nice to get rid of the crossover. The exhaust headers from LC Engineering look like a good solution that I could manage to install.