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motor is toast. happy new year!

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Old 02-12-2010, 09:20 AM
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just find a engine and put it in... 22re/r are a dime a dozen come and go... just astay with your stock setup less headace's down the road...
Old 02-15-2010, 08:56 AM
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i think i'm going to go with the oregon engines "super stock". i called 'em up the other day, had a chat about my options, and the guy i spoke to gave me a confidence boost that i think i needed to make a decision. i need to think it a little more but i'm pretty sure i'm going to go with that. the money saved in customizing to fit a 3rz can be saved for proper gearing for my 33s.
Old 02-15-2010, 09:29 AM
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Originally Posted by tj884Rdlx
i think i'm going to go with the oregon engines "super stock". i called 'em up the other day, had a chat about my options, and the guy i spoke to gave me a confidence boost that i think i needed to make a decision.
Just out of curiosity, what's the difference between the OER reguler 22RE and the super stock?
Old 02-15-2010, 11:00 AM
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Taken off of their ebay ad.

Regular 22re-
"The following is a partial list of the new parts installed in OERI engines: New pistons, wrist-pins, pin-bushings, rings, rod-bearings, main-bearings, all new timing components, soft-plugs, valves, cam shaft, a NEW timing cover, an oil pump, and a full set of gaskets. All OERI engines are stripped to a bare block, hot-tanked, and re-machined bringing every surface and every tolerance back to original specifications through the use of state-of-the-art Sunnen equipment."

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Toyot...Q5fAccessories

Super stock 22re-
"The following is a list of the performance options installed in this "SUPER-STOCK" long block engine: New hypereutectic pistons and wrist-pins, over-sized IN&EX swirl-polished, chrome tiped valves, torque RV Crane cam shaft with 425/IN and 440/EX lift, high volume oil pump and a rubber lined steel chain guide for the slack side. On top of all that, a NEW, (not remanufactured) heavy casting head, new timing cover and a full set of high quality gaskets!

All OERI engines are stripped to a bare block, hot-tanked, and re-machined bringing every surface and every tolerance back to original specifications through the use of state-of-the-art Sunnen equipment."

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/22R-2...Q5fAccessories

Last edited by kiyobrown; 02-15-2010 at 11:01 AM.
Old 02-15-2010, 04:54 PM
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thanx Jason. yep, there is difference in the hardware. i spoke to someone there for a while. he did indicate that to get that 135-140 hp you will need to do a cold air intake and 2.5 free flow exh. he definitely gave me the impression he was behind their product.

however, i spoke with the tech who's putting this in for me, and he said he couldn't give as long a warranty using an engine from a different source. he'll give me a 3yr, unl. miles warranty on the motor he uses. i can't really argue with a 3yr warranty on his install. so i'm going to go his route. hopefully it will all work out.
Old 02-15-2010, 05:09 PM
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anybody live close to you that can help with the install? I thought OERI will give you the unlimited mileage warranty even if self installed? By the sounds of it, folks have been happy with that motor. I have been eyeing it for quite some time though. But nothing tops maintenance, and mine is still just fine. *knocks on wood*
Old 02-15-2010, 06:48 PM
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Yeah a 3 yr warranty isn't bad at all. Will they work with you an the head at all? I got mine with a new casting head and a mild cam but no valve work. The way I looked at it was that pushing more air and fuel would come at the cost of efficiency and it really isn't going to be a race car either way. The cam wasn't really noticeable but when I added the exhaust...
Old 02-23-2010, 02:10 PM
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supposedly truck will be done this week. update soon.
Old 02-26-2010, 12:01 PM
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engine is in!

it's smooth. i got a new head, rebuilt block with all new guts, done .10 over. new clutch, resurfaced fly, couple other doo-dads it needed.

but apparently my 2yr old radiator is leaking from the neck, so i need it serviced.

also, i need new exhaust. i was told there was a crap load of carbon on the cylinders, so much so that the valves had made impressions in it? supposedly my cat conv. core is broken up and clogging it. so i'm now buying complete exhaust too.

i'm debating whether to try to keep the factory manifold and just do cat + cat-back; or do headers too.

today's research found no average reviews for the pacesetter and the OBX. i can't afford a thorley. i'll think it some more this weekend.

it was nice to be back in my truck. for a few hrs. i think i'll pull this rad myself and take it to a place. it's all metal. i may as well keep it, vs. getting a half-plastic job.
Old 02-26-2010, 01:09 PM
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Congrats on the rig being back on the road.

As to the exhaust, I'm thinking of a couple of options.

I have a full LCE exhaust that works very well. I drove my truck around after my engine exchange for about a month on the old stock exhaust. It felt better than before, but nothing earth shattering. With the LCE on I could feel a big difference, at least in the "butt dyno" department. That said, it was $$$ and I don't know if it was really well spent money or not. Part of me thinks I could have gotten as good or near as good results for less cash. In my situation I had a crack in the manifold, so that was going to have to be replaced as well and went into some of the decision making.

If cash flow is still an issue (and when isn't it) I would say just get that cat replaced with a direct fit to make sure you aren't putting any bad juju on your nice fresh engine. I believe the one in my LC kit was simply a Magnaflow and from what I've read, any modern cat will be "high flow" so you don't have to fall for any of that advertising hype. That would probably be your cheapest option.

Another option that I've kicked around is that when you look at the stock mani, it nearly is a tri-y header. There was also a change in the down pipes between '85 and '86. The '86 pipe y's together almost immediately while the '85 pipe remains 2 pipes for quite a bit longer, making the exhaust even more like a header.

Links (that I hope work) to what I'm talking about.
http://shop.oreillyauto.com/ProductD...pe=688&PTSet=A
http://shop.oreillyauto.com/ProductD...pe=688&PTSet=A

I never actually tried this so there may be fitment issues but I thought it was intriguing and might still try it if I ever get another rig to goof around with.

Good luck.
Old 03-01-2010, 07:42 AM
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Originally Posted by BLKNBLU
Congrats on the rig being back on the road.

Links (that I hope work) to what I'm talking about.
http://shop.oreillyauto.com/ProductD...pe=688&PTSet=A
http://shop.oreillyauto.com/ProductD...pe=688&PTSet=A

I never actually tried this so there may be fitment issues but I thought it was intriguing and might still try it if I ever get another rig to goof around with.

Good luck.

thanx for chimin' in here! very cool comparison of these two down pipes. great link post.

i think i have a line on a still-in-box exhaust set up that uses the stock manifold. this is good because i bought one about a month before the engine died while replacing a leaking exh. manifold gasket.

supposedly this set up is manifold-back, 2.25", with cat and muffler for $300. only thing is it will need a little cut n' paste at the end, since it's actually for a longbed pickup, not a runner. i forget what brand he said, but looking forward to getting it put on this week.

i'm not sure if i'll need a new down pipe or not for this kit, i'll see it tuesday. but if i do, these links will be a huge help. thanx again!
Old 03-01-2010, 10:15 PM
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Well that would be great. A full exhaust for $300 is tough to beat. The 2.25 will be perfect. Good luck, hope it's as good as it sounds.
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